Hello all,

I am from the U.S. so bear with me for those across the pond. I just acquired a 1998 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder w/ manual tranny for $250. It makes 120 HP @ 5000 rpm and 146 ft-lbs @ 3000 rpm. I would like to start a locost within the next month or so, but I still have many questions.

My goal is to use as many parts from my donor as possible as per the everything-from-one-car Ron Champion method. Has anyone here used a Ranger as a donor before?

My plan is to build either book chassis or McSorley 7+4. I think the 7+4 looks better IMO. Here are some of the stock dimensions of the truck:

Wheelbase- 125.70"
Track (Front)- 58.6"
Track (Rear)- 57.3"
Ground Clearance- 6.7"
Tire Diameter- 26.1"
Tire Size- 205-75-14

Anyoneone know the rear track of the book locost so I have something to compare it to?

All comments/questions/rants/criticisms welcome

I spent about 30 min looking for pictures of the suspension on the Internet. I was really looking for pictures of the stub axles/uprights. No luck. Regardless, they should be easy enough to adapt.

Everything I've read, states that truck is 4-wheel independent suspension, which would be my choice.

Justin, I am very happy that you have decided to join the list of builders. Best of luck with the project. You will still have issues with your build even though it is a Locost Style and not a Middy because you are trying a basically unproven donor.

I did a little digging around on the Locost_North_America list and I found this:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Locost_North_America/message/20310

I think you should head over there to see if there is any more info.

I can't help you with the rear track. But I would like to see photos of the front suspension and uprights. Is it rack and pinion steering? What is the wheel bolt pattern and PCD? If you have to use different uprights you will probably want to match them.

Graber

[Edited on 3/2/05 by sgraber]

As far as I know it should it should have a ford 7.5 rear which while not the strongest should handle any amount of torque a locost could come up with- I am using one on my build- its a bit heavy but I can pick up the rear axle assembly and carry it around- for a short period.-- It may be a locker (lsd) as well.
Dale

Depends on whether it is the Mazda B2300 in drag (and which one) - certainly the current Ranger (Courier down-under) is a straight clone.

This has a double wishbone coil over front and cart spring live rear, with powered rack and pinion. The post 2001(?) has a detuned version of the all-alloy 16-valve MZR/Duratec from the Mazda6 and a Mazda 5-speed (in US). Might also have an LSD?

US versions have 5-stud wheels.

sgraber:
Yes it is R&P steering. The bolt pattern is 5 by 114.3mm, which is not too popular for compact cars. Too bad its not 4x100mm as I would already have the wheels. PCD? The uprights look a little big for a locost but I could definitely use them if I have to.

The front suspension is independent double A-arm with front steer. The back is live axle. Not sure if its LSD.

Hate to sound ignorant but is there a way I could use 4 lug suspension in the front and somehow convert the rear into 4 lug to match? I know that the Honda Attack does something similar to this. This would be my best option if at all possible.

Thanks in advance.

In north america there are lots of wheels availible for the 5 bolt pattern ford hubs--its acutally a common upgrade from the 4 bolt axles.
Dale

quote:

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Originally posted by scuzzer
sgraber:
Yes it is R&P steering. The bolt pattern is 5 by 114.3mm, which is not too popular for compact cars. Too bad its not 4x100mm as I would already have the wheels. PCD? The uprights look a little big for a locost but I could definitely use them if I have to.

The front suspension is independent double A-arm with front steer. The back is live axle. Not sure if its LSD.

Hate to sound ignorant but is there a way I could use 4 lug suspension in the front and somehow convert the rear into 4 lug to match? I know that the Honda Attack does something similar to this. This would be my best option if at all possible.

Thanks in advance.

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I thought all rangers had that funky I beam suspension? Guess I was wrong.

I think the truck would be a great donor. THe Stalker uses a S10 and ti works well plus parts will be cheap.

As for rims, search ebay. just search for your bolt pattern and there should eb lots to choose from.

quote:

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Originally posted by scuzzer
The bolt pattern is 5 by 114.3mm, which is not too popular for compact cars.

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I have been looking over the Ranger front hubs and I think they just won't do. They look too bulky and heavy. I just got an offer for a free Geo Metro (AKA Suzuki Swift) front suspension for free. This solves the issue of converting power steering to manual. It's also much lighter and much more suitable for a locost. I believe it is rear steer. Thing is, it creates other problems like now I have a 4 lug pattern front suspension and 5 lug rear axle. Custom axles or some machine work could fix this problem though. I already have a good set of 4 lug wheels that fit the metro suspension. Another problem is that the metro track is about 4" different compared to the Ranger rear track (53.7" for the metro and 57.3" for the Ranger). I was thinking I could always use lengthened tie rods if need be.

Even better yet, I could replace the rear axle with a Miata axle (LSD?) thats got 4 lug bolt pattern and a slightly narrower track to better match the metro's

I am trying to solve all the issues I can now before I start building. Anyone know of a way to adhere better to the KISS principle?

[Edited on 7/3/05 by scuzzer]

quote:

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Originally posted by scuzzer
Another problem is that the metro track is about 4" different compared to the Ranger rear track (53.7" for the metro and 57.3" for the Ranger). I was thinking I could always use lengthened tie rods if need be.

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Scuzzer, I want to see some photos of those Swift front uprights when you get a chance. Also their weight. I am thinking they would be a good front end donor fo my La bala project.