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Insulating Garage
Howlor - 16/11/08 at 07:35 PM

Evening All,

I want to insulate my internal garage to try and keep some of the heat in that it gains from the house.

I have sealed any draughts etc and I am going to use some of the aluminium foil stuff on the inside of the door.

What can I use on the ceiling, it is currently plasterboarded and I do have plenty of headroom.

Many thanks,

Steve


dave1888 - 16/11/08 at 07:38 PM

Can you get insulation above the ceiling if so i would put as much above as possible.


Howlor - 16/11/08 at 07:48 PM

Just normal insulation do you think?


tcr - 16/11/08 at 07:52 PM

fit a loft hatch then use rolls of loft insulation
fit 100mm between the joists then 150 ontop across the joist

[Edited on 16/11/08 by tcr]


jacko - 16/11/08 at 07:58 PM

I think it was B&Q that was /is selling fiber glass cheep £9 a roll


mr henderson - 16/11/08 at 08:11 PM

Don't forget the floor! If you can afford to lose 19mm of headroom, then the cheapest and most effective is a layer of dpm followed by 8x2's of T&G moisture resistant flooring chipboard. It will make a BIG difference to working comfort, and you can slide heavy weights around on it easily

John


Richard Quinn - 16/11/08 at 08:11 PM

You guys don't work hard enough Work harder and generate your own heat!


coozer - 16/11/08 at 08:23 PM

Kingspans the stuff you need, can be used everywhere, floors , walls and ceilings.


tomblyth - 16/11/08 at 08:54 PM

celutex is cheaper than kingspan but is the same , Lidi have thermal boiler suits on for£14 , also carpet the garage floor ! (cheap stuff so you can bin it after the cars built!)


Howlor - 16/11/08 at 09:11 PM

Can I bond Celutex to the roof and is this fire retardant?

Thanks,
Steve


Guinness - 16/11/08 at 09:26 PM

I'm using a high performance composite plasterboard from British Gypsum on my loft conversion at the minute.

It's 12.5mm plasterboard with a layer of closed cell foam insulation bonded to the back of it. You can use it on ceilings / walls / dot and dab, screwed to battens or straight to brick.

Because of the nature of the insulation, it acts as a vapor barrier, reducing condensation too.

http://www.british-gypsum.com/products/plasterboard___accessories/gyproc_thermal/gyproc_thermaline_plus.aspx

Mike


mookaloid - 16/11/08 at 09:47 PM

I'm not sure that foil on the door will do much I would think you need something with a bit of insulating properties rather than just the heat reflective thing.


RickRick - 16/11/08 at 10:39 PM

i've bonded poly celing tiles to the inside of the door 2 deep were i can, one or 2 have dropped off over the last year (need better glue) but the bare parts are freezing when it's cold out, and boiling when its sunny it's the only 7*7 radiator i've ever seen!!!


BenB - 17/11/08 at 10:36 AM

I just got a Dickies insulated worksuit.
No problems (I've got a heater but I think I've switched it on twice and (for once!) it's not being tight that stops me....


DarrenW - 17/11/08 at 11:27 AM

Did you say its an integral garage? I assume only void above ceiling plasterboards are a few inches where the joists are. i also assume the existing ceiling is some sort of fire barrier too if there are bedrooms above. Does this have a bearing on what type of insulation can be used?

Good quality sealed garage door would be my first starting point. In laws have just had a very smart door fitted that has insulated panels and seals right around. Not cheap though unfortunately. I had a chaper roller shutter door fitted at a previous house (electric type) with brush strips down the sides that was quite good at keeping draughts out.


MikeR - 17/11/08 at 01:13 PM

Buy bubble wrap from ebay and stick loads on your garage door. Makes a huge difference. The garage door is just a huge heat sink (think of it like a radiator - and the hot water is where you are.