The key fob for my Rover 45 had to be right next to the car and needed 2~3 presses to open the doors so I thought I'd change the battery..... now its dead, wont operate the doors or immobillser at all.

Followed the change over discharge, key in door thing but to no avail it just doesn't work.

Any advise as my other key fob is worse! Started on the wrong one

Same with my old one. Managed to imobilise it with the key code in the door thing (so many turns of the key left and right), and then ran it up to a dealer who sorted it in 2 seconds flat. Another time it packed up altogether and local specialist came out and programmed me a new key for about £40.

If its the same style as a freelander one (just 2 buttons), mine started to need the button pressing very hard and had to be very close to the car, when i opened up its casing, i found the tin saddle that holds the battery in was soldered on and the solder had split.

Easily fixed with a solder sucker and some fresh solder. My partners remote did the same thing a little while later, both work fine now

And it was very locost !

quote:

---

Originally posted by coozer
The key fob for my Rover 45 had to be right next to the car and needed 2~3 presses to open the doors so I thought I'd change the battery..... now its dead, wont operate the doors or immobillser at all.

Followed the change over discharge, key in door thing but to no avail it just doesn't work.

Any advise as my other key fob is worse! Started on the wrong one

---

RTFM --- if you change the fob battery you have to do it and operate the fob with 2 minutes otherwise you have to follow a set procedure to re-synchronise it with the rolling code..

I don't have a copy of the manual to hand but it involves openning the drivers door and holding both buttons down at the same time.

quote:

---

Originally posted by Andybarbet
If its the same style as a freelander one (just 2 buttons), mine started to need the button pressing very hard and had to be very close to the car, when i opened up its casing, i found the tin saddle that holds the battery in was soldered on and the solder had split.

Easily fixed with a solder sucker and some fresh solder. My partners remote did the same thing a little while later, both work fine now

And it was very locost !

---

looked the procedure up -- the procedure I gave was for the old 214 Here is a link the the proper procedure for the 45 withe Lucas-Motorola


http://www.remotekey.co.uk/cars/rover/rover-45/faq.asp

OK, the saddle was broken, re soldered it, discharged by pressing the buttons without the battery in, opened the car with the key and pressed the buttons on the fob tons of times.

I'm using my spare now which after all the research I did last night works better if i point it under my chin! Its a mad world.

Thanks guys, reckon I may have to buy a new one and getit programmed.