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Camchaft locking tools... advice?
tegwin - 17/2/09 at 01:27 PM

Slightly OT.. but hope no one minds...

I need to do the cambelt on my 2001 polo. Its a twincam 1.6...

The official VW guide details the process in great detail, and its not stupidly difficult....

However, the guide suggests that you will need a pair of locking tools for the camshafts and a special claw type thing to hold the crnakshaft inplace while you undo the nut...


I cant find the correct tools anywhere... Appart from going to VW... I imagine their tools are very expensive, if they sell them atall...


So would I be very foolish trying the job without the special tools?

Use a couple of bolts/drills or something to wedge the cams inplace...

And possibly have to make a "claw" to hold the pulley still?...

If I bend the head, I cant just pop to the scrappy to get a new one... they didnt make many of these engines


Mr Whippy - 17/2/09 at 01:34 PM

have a look through here and see if its listed

linky

[Edited on 17/2/09 by Mr Whippy]


tegwin - 17/2/09 at 01:37 PM

Its a 2001 GTI. 1.6 AVY

The manual suggests that T10074 is the camshaft locking toolset and T10028 is the crank locking claw tool thing...


eznfrank - 17/2/09 at 01:40 PM

I'd not worry too much about the crankshaft tool, but I wouldn't try it without camlocks. They need to be spot on really.

have you tried the Bay? Was the engine used in other cars also?


theconrodkid - 17/2/09 at 01:41 PM

eurocarparts do lots of tools for VW,i made a tool for holding sprockets,i think robocog has it at the mo if you want to contact him


tegwin - 17/2/09 at 01:42 PM

Engine was not fitted to anything else...

Although it would not suprise me if the more common 1.4 16V engine shares components


Mr Whippy - 17/2/09 at 01:43 PM

Locking tool looks like a bar with some bolts stick through! Not sure why you'd need a cam lock anyway? never used them myself, I just mark the pulley teeth with tipex, then line the marks up before slipping on the belt. Usually there's so much friction the cams are hardly going to spin round by themselves


how too linky

[Edited on 17/2/09 by Mr Whippy]


tegwin - 17/2/09 at 01:48 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
locking tool looks like a bar with some bolts stick through!

how too linky


The ones for my AVY engine are #21 in that diagram...two straight pins.....


Mr Whippy - 17/2/09 at 01:50 PM

a bar of metal and some M5 bolts surely will do that


daviep - 17/2/09 at 01:54 PM

My old man did the timing belt on my sisters Polo 1.6 Gti recently and as far as I know the only tool he had to make was for holding the crankshaft damper.

The castellated spanner to hold the damper did have to be quite robust.

Cheers
Davie


MikeRJ - 17/2/09 at 02:06 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
Locking tool looks like a bar with some bolts stick through! Not sure why you'd need a cam lock anyway? never used them myself, I just mark the pulley teeth with tipex, then line the marks up before slipping on the belt. Usually there's so much friction the cams are hardly going to spin round by themselves



Most modern engines don't have the pulleys keyed to the cam shafts, they rely on friction only. In order to set the cam timing to the accuracy required for emissions etc, this system means that small variations in the fitted length of a belt after tensioning can be removed, but it requires that the cams are locked to the reference position when the cam pulleys are done up.

On older engines you can just line the marks up, and they tend to run well enough if you aren't after maximum performance.

[Edited on 17/2/09 by MikeRJ]


pewe - 17/2/09 at 02:34 PM

What Mike said ^ about older engines. My Lancia engine ran 2 teeth out (not very well mind you) but modern engines are interference fit so mis-align the cams and pistons hit valves. Even if you lock the cams take the plugs out and turn over by hand before you try to fire it up.
Cheers, Pewe

Clever that one \/ or what?

[Edited on 17/2/09 by pewe]


irvined - 17/2/09 at 05:14 PM

If you're just changing the cam belt, something I find pretty useful is to first get some tipp-ex and mark up a few opints on each wheel just in case, then slice the old cam belt down the middle so that it splits into two belts half as thick and remove the outer one. The inner half then keeps everything tight. I then slide the new cam belt on then cut the remaining bit of the old cam belt out.

Hell of a lot quicker than locking, or re-aligning.