Some numpty has impact wrenched them on and the last person to try to remove them has all but destroyed the key. I got one off but the key is all chewed up.

There appears to be a steel sleeve on the nut to fill the gap between the nut and the wheel recess so I'm not sure i could get an old socket over the top.

Does the drive round the car park with the other nut loose really work?

[Edited on 20/2/09 by liam.mccaffrey]

I remove locking wheel nuts without the key most weeks at work.

I tackle those with the free floating sleve like this.

Chisel off the rotating sleve NOTE: wear goggles as these are often made of extremely hard steel that is resistant to drilling and can quickly take the edge off the cold chisel.

Then once the outer sleve is removed its time for the lump hammer and cold chisel again and up to an hour of hammering if they have been doen up tight!

I find it works best if you do up VERY tight the other nuts so it stands a chance of pulling the wheel in that fraction and releasing the pressure on the locking nut.
I hope this is of use to you.

Are wheel nuts weldable? Can't you just weld a normal wheel nut onto the locking one and then attach with a breaker bar? Sounds like the old locking nuts are FUBARd anyway....

i one welded bolts onto some bmw bolts to get them off

my dad has a c70 conv and had the same problem they were the maggard type he bought a job lot of keys and spent ages grinding bits off them till he had one that worked

I always end up with the job of removing locking wheel nuts! Do as locoboy says , you need to get a nick in the nut then angle the chisel around 45 degrees so that your knocking the nut anticlockwise . With practise it's easy. Locking nuts tend to be made of very hard steel , have never managed to get really good penetration when welding a nut on. Stick welder on high setting may work?

we used stick welder up high

as regards chiseling dependant on the wheel somtimes the bolt is well recesed like in my dads case so there was no room to get in to chisel

There are sockets tha look like they have an internal left hand thread to remove wheel nuts - think I saw them in the latest Machine Mart catalogue.

currently I have tried impact driver, impact wrench.

Have the left hand thread thingy coming tomorrow. I will try chisselling (sp) the sleev and nut tomorrow.

I have 3 of these buggers to do

quote:

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Originally posted by liam.mccaffrey
currently I have tried impact driver, impact wrench.

Have the left hand thread thingy coming tomorrow. I will try chisselling (sp) the sleev and nut tomorrow.

I have 3 of these buggers to do

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good to know BT thanks. Just bought a better one as the old one is poo

quote:

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Originally posted by 02GF74
There are sockets tha look like they have an internal left hand thread to remove wheel nuts - think I saw them in the latest Machine Mart catalogue.

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I bought something for this once called a Gator Socket or something.

It's a a deep socket about 22mm diameter that is filled internally by sprung pins.

As it's pushed onto the nut, the pins clamp around the knackered nut.

It cost about £20 including the ratchet.

Might be worth looking at. Think I got it from B&Q.

HTH,
James

Well after about 4 days of blood sweat tears and cursing we got the last one off.

We attacked the rotating ring for hours and just couldnt get it to break. Mashed it good and proper though and stopped it from rotating which helped us later.

basically we deformed the female socket on the stud and hammered the key on for all it was worth. We then got a 7' long piece of 4"x3" timber and using a kerb levered the the back of the socket whilst putting the torque on with the breaker bar. This coupled with the completely mashed socket stopped the key from coming out and riding over the rounded corners.

Thanks for all your suggestions guys many thanks!

[Edited on 20/2/09 by liam.mccaffrey]

Brute force wins again.