
hi everybody, got a question about braking, why do some cars have single master cylinders and others have twin master cylinders( i assume one is for
front and the other for rear) why is this beneficial to the braking of the car, can someone please explain this for me.
thanks Alex
A twin master cylinder is effectively two independent braking systems built in one housing; so if you lose one circuit you still have braking to two wheels. With single line master cylinder, losing a circuit means no brakes at all.
r both master cylinders connected to the brake peddle then
yup, in a lot of cases by a "bias bar" this way you can adjust the amount of braking too the front and rear independently.
With twin master cylinders you can adjust the bias from front to rear without too much hassle. You have one cylinder for the front the front and one
for the rear.
If you have a single master cylinder you cant adjust the bias so easily. Just because you have one doesnt mean you lose breaking if it dies though.
Common mistake, tandem master cylinder is one unit with two different outputs (one front one rear or diagonal split). Twin master cylinders are two
seperate units, one front, one rear and need a balance bar setup to work.
David
Hi my post was slightly misleading. You mean 2 brake master cylinders side by side? If so; yes they are both connected to the pedal with a balance bar.
quote:
Originally posted by tasmin289
Hi my post was slightly misleading. You mean 2 brake master cylinders side by side? If so; yes they are both connected to the pedal with a balance bar.
quote:
It is not needed for road use
yes i was reading the DAX build manual last night, and they say that you need to have a small spot weld to hold the bias bar in place for SVA.
one problem....i dont have a welder
Alex
Some people drill through one m/cyl' fixing and the adjuster rod and insert a roll pin. That does a similar job.
I wouldn't advocate drilling through the adjuster rod and push rod clevis, this will weaken the rod greatly in an area that experiences load
under braking, far better to add a lock nut to each end of the adjuster and drill through these and the bar. This area of the bar experiences no load
under braking.
Mick