If you use the type for bonding to wooden floors then it will remain elastic and should not crack. Plus it wont set as hard as concret and can be broken out when needed.
I've dug some channels in the concrete floor in my lounge to run new rad pipes. I've going to be laying oak plank flooring over the top.
I need to fill the holes with something - preferably with some elasticity in it, as there is a section between a concrete and suspended wooded floor
I also want to fill.
Any recommendations? Self leveling would be good too.
Don't bury your central heating pipes in anything like concrete, won't the oak plank flooring span the channel you've dug? Make a U channel or ] with a flat top to cover them and leave access
I've left no joints in the pipes, all done with a bender.....
It will span, but worried incase I get any creak...
copper pipes which are been incased in concrete should have a 2mm plastic sheath on it (the concrete will attack the copper), i had to use when when
doing work at my brothers, and it does not fit an external pipe bender had to use a spring bender,
if you are going to use concrete on a unprotected pipe then encase the pipe with plastic or double wrap with electric tape.
Ahhh - that makes sense - will gaffer tape do it?
Didn't want to use concrete - wondered if there was anything easier to mix up and lay?
[Edited on 15/6/06 by Jasper]
quote:
Originally posted by Jasper
Didn't want to use concrete - wondered if there was anything easier to mix up and lay?
Floor tile adhesive,
If you use the type for bonding to wooden floors then it will remain elastic and should not crack. Plus it wont set as hard as concret and can be
broken out when needed.
Floor leveling compound available from Wicks and the lkes i reckon.
Mac
quote:
Originally posted by Aboardman
copper pipes which are been incased in concrete should have a 2mm plastic sheath on it (the concrete will attack the copper), i had to use when when doing work at my brothers, and it does not fit an external pipe bender had to use a spring bender,
if you are going to use concrete on a unprotected pipe then encase the pipe with plastic or double wrap with electric tape.
Oh bugger....
Cheers for the advice chaps.....
Dave, leave the pipes where they are and replace them with some routed where you can get at them from before where they enter the kitchen and extension. There's usually a way round, especially with the new plumbing methods like push fit and alkathene and plastic compression fittings for underground.
yup - was my thoughts but wifey doesn't want ugly pipes in her kitchen....
suppose I can box them in but this going to be a big job
Still my six attempts at getting a fuel pipe down the tunnel have given me loads of practice at pipe bending!
[Edited on 15/6/06 by DaveFJ]
You can get the covers that just click over twin pipes, I've used them and they 'disappear' when painted in.
You could fill the channels with mix up foam, or maybe that spray stuff from places like B&Q. That's if it's not meant to be underfloor
heating, of course. The foam would insulate from everything, and keep the pipes in place, and accessible if you hack the foam away.
Cheers,
Syd.
Dave just a thought from outside the box.
If the pipes in the floor are straight enough could you not (In theoryat least).
Cut open the two ends and then slide a new plastic liner pipe inside the copper. Would save you a lot of grief with the missus although the flow rate
would drop. As I said just thinking out of the box