I am looking to buy a landrover.
I can get a 1995 300tdi for £1900, but it has 200,000 miles on clock! its for swmbo to travel 45miles a day in, plus weekend toy.
Would you buy it?

I guess it depends on service history to a large extent. At 200k virtualy everything suspension/steering wise is going to be getting a bit tired, what has been replaced? Likewise if it's the original turbo then surely it's living on borrowed time?

200K, no just to many miles, i dont think it would make a reliable car

I bought my Audi A4 Tdi with 130K on the clock. I've done 30K miles since with no major issues. I have replaced a couple of the suspension bushes on the front suspension. The clutch is just starting to show signs of wearing out. However its only £80 for a new one and I'll fit it myself. The car came with full Audi servicing from new which helped make the buying choice.

I Bought my passat TDI at 130,000 now done 195,000 miles. Ussual suspension bushess.

original clutch lasted to 170,000 CV joints 180,000.

I would trust VAG group to this milage not sure about solihulls finest though.

regards

Agriv8

Depends!

Are you happy to spend the time and money required to keep it on the road?

I usually take the view that paying more up front for a vehicle means less time and money spent keeping it on the road.

I'm guessing it has to be a Landy for emotional attachement reasons? Does this rule out other vehicles? £1900 could get a tidy small car with a lot less miles on the clock - Pug 306 etc!

Firstly landrovers, transit and other decent vans - infact most commecial vehicles need a different set of rules when it comes to high mileage

60k on a car and you'll expect it to start getting a little worn and taty

120k on a car and you'd expect it to be on its way to the scrap yard (assuming it 8-12 years old)

100k on a landrover and it will be starting to need things looked at (providing its been looked after up to that point)

is it a 90/110 or Disco ???

Have most of those miles been on-road or off-road ??? (salt and sand are the real killers)

200k Disco bodywork will probibly have a fair bit of rot - not too much you can do about that

200k 90/110 will need some bodywork done (but this is almost just a case of swaping panels and paint like the S1, 2 & 3's) make sure the bulkhead is ok though - new panels arn't cheep, but you should be able to find second hand ones

Running gear on a 100k landrover will be starting to get a bit tired (depending on how its been looked after or not) by 200k you'd hope it has had most things replaced or serviced at least once

the chassis could be completly rotten, check it carefuly (with a hammer) look for signs of repair welding

gearbox will probibly need rebuilt if it hasn't been done

300 tdi's are ok but 200tdi's are simpler and stronger (but also older)


300k+ 90/110's arn't imposible, but it depends how much time, effort and cash has been spent maintaining them

at the end of the day if its in good nick, at the right price, then why not

although I would have thought that an older 80k to 120k landrover would stand a better chance of being in good nick (for the same money ??)

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Originally posted by graememk
200K, no just to many miles, i dont think it would make a reliable car

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quote:

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Originally posted by mcerd1
120k on a car and you'd expect it to be on its way to the scrap yard (assuming it 8-12 years old)

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200,000 miles in 11 years seems a lot??? Ex-electricity board landy or similar??? Could be OK could be a wreck hard to say, wouldn't outright dismiss on that alone though....Oli.

Assuming it's a defender, it'll be fine. Everything it easy to replace and cheap enough as well.

I once tried to run a Land Rover into the ground over Catterick driver training area and simply could get the better of it - and it was an old, battered model, not one of the new Wolfs (that are ten times better again!)

Milage on Land Rover irrelevant! What has it done, where has it been, how well has it been looked after? Is the gearbox noisy? What is crank case pressure like, does it smoke out the oil filler after running for a while? Where are oil leaks? diff pinion seals will have been re done by now, check for oil at the handbrake drum from Crankshaft seal, Is it original engine and turbo? do the axles whine ? is tere a lot of backlash in the transmission?

Check chassis carefully for rust especially under any recent re-coating byg screwdriver hit hard! If the main members don't ring like a bell if dead sounding walk! Check bulkhead at the usual places, bottom of A posts particularly also the bottom corners of screen surround.

Finally put your fingers through the bottom of the door frame point out it will need new doors and get a few quid knocked off, If this doesn't happen then the motor has been looked after!

Caber

PS to mcred1 Land Rovers are as reliable as the maintenance given to them! People slag them off but forget that they have almost all outlasted contemporary cars and the relaibility should be judged by the standards of the time they were built not against brand new cars all electronicy that will die well before the Land Rover you are comparing it too! In 10 years of ownership I have only had AA out twice, once due to a failed master cylinder that was only a few weeks old (thanks Lucas) and another time to a failed ignition module, I was too tired to put the points back and had no timing tools as it happened the coil was fried as well still not sure what fried what on that one!

quote:

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Originally posted by caber

PS to mcred1 Land Rovers are as reliable as the maintenance given to them! People slag them off but forget that they have almost all outlasted contemporary cars and the relaibility should be judged by the standards of the time they were built not against brand new cars all electronicy that will die well before the Land Rover you are comparing it too! In 10 years of ownership I have only had AA out twice, once due to a failed master cylinder that was only a few weeks old (thanks Lucas) and another time to a failed ignition module, I was too tired to put the points back and had no timing tools as it happened the coil was fried as well still not sure what fried what on that one!

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well my 31 yr lightweight is still going strong - only time it ever broke down was due to after market parts - facet fuel pump and lumentiont box - breaking.

dunno much about discos nor their pricing but there is loads of them so don't buy the first you see - and take someone with ya who knows what to look for - the boot floor is notrorious for rusting.

just brought volvo 850 t5 with 162000 still pulls like a train had a bit of fun with an audi tt on sunday but as regards landrover with 200k be very carefull find out what work has been carried out on transmission and steering and suspension expect to rebush and replace plenty of ball joints check excessive backlash in transmission also check carefully for corrosion on boot floors and sill's and of course it'll leak oil everywhere but cheap enough to repair if you are prepaired to spend a few weekend s working under it

I would buy high mileage,But i'd be really careful of any Landrover product.I've seen some 2000/2001 discos needing all the 'leveling pipes replacing.with just 80k on the clock.Landrover are still having a terrible time with quality control.It is better than it was but.....That said you have to take each car as it stands on 4 wheels.I'd not pass a W124 Merc with 300k for £500....Right.Just reread the orginal post.No.£2-2500 in Yorkshire will get a "good one" for that age.The trail boys are paying less than that for one to chop.Sadly it is a case of looking about.'Trader always seems to come up trumps.eBay doesn't.Just my opinions....

[Edited on 18/9/06 by TPG]

quote:

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Originally posted by caber
PS to mcred1 Land Rovers are as reliable as the maintenance given to them! People slag them off but forget that they have almost all outlasted contemporary cars and the relaibility should be judged by the standards of the time they were built not against brand new cars all electronicy that will die well before the Land Rover you are comparing it too! In 10 years of ownership I have only had AA out twice, once due to a failed master cylinder that was only a few weeks old (thanks Lucas) and another time to a failed ignition module, I was too tired to put the points back and had no timing tools as it happened the coil was fried as well still not sure what fried what on that one!

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I bought a 1990 RR Classic in 1999 with a genuine 205,000 on the clock, but I knew the car was well looked after (it was immaculate), and whenever it needed work, it was done. The engine had just had a (v. exp) rebuild.

Only had one prob shortly after I got it, it wouldn't turn over, which I discovered in about 5 minutes was down to the ig switch wire on starter had came off.

Superb car. Love another.

ATB

Simon

Christ!..

My 1984 110 has 194k on the clock, and I would go anywhere in it at the drop of a hat.
I have owned it for 11 years its a good motor.
Cheap spares, readily available, Piss easy to fix. Big Boys Mecano kit.
Its let me down 2 times in 105k miles.
1. Blown original engine (N/A Diesel 90k)
2. Clutch flexi split Fixed by the AA in an hour of getting there including going and getting the hose.

I cant complain it gets a lot of abuse as my daily ride. Tows like a train.

I am well pleased with mine.

OK, so it needs maintaining, what doesnt. Just give it plenty of fresh clean oil at the right intervals and change the filters. Grease everytihng up, and spray the inside of the chassis with Waxoyl. Or get a Galvanised chassis like mine.

Oh... Sorry I forgot, most of you have never seen a car with grease nipples on every ball joint. You Old technology requiring old style maintenance.

They are as reliable as anything else, providing its properly maintained. They take a lot of abuse, and it not maintained they will give trouble... just like anything else.