My mother in laws Freelander has got a problem with the engine running very hot but the gauge is reading ok also the top half of the radiator is cold and the system is not pressurising (seems to be a faulty cap). Have been searching the web for answers but there are so many k series problems that its hard just to get the basic info. Does anybody know of a good site to help or have had first hand experience of the problem. I have found some info about the thermostat but have also read about changing the cap but can't find out what the problem is. Its a 1.8 s reg k series. Don't know how long its been getting hot so head gasket probably on way out

Thanks in advance Ronnie

I will never get this locost finished at this rate

they are really bad for this and airlocking, I find that raising the front of the car off the ground ( as high as possible) helps to bleed the system better. also have the heater on hot inside the car.
Try that and see how you go

The newer freelanders have a different thermostat called a PVT. Do a search on google, there are plenty of articles about fitting one.
The downfall of the engine is not the engine it self, but leaks with a poorly located temperature sensor.
You will not know if the engine is getting too hot because it reads normal once some of the water has gone.
I recommend changing the expansion tank to one with a float switch. You can wire this to a light to let you know when it requires attention. Rover can suppy these parts or Brown and gammon.

If it isn't pressurising you have a leak, if the top half of the rad is cold the coolant isn't circulating probably because it has become airlocked due to the coolant level dropping.

Temperature gauge readings on BMW era Rovers can't be trusted particularly when the coolant isn't circulating.

If the head gasket is blown there will be signs of water emulsion in the oil or oil or gases in the coolant tank. An external water leak is about 10 times more likely than a head gasket problem.

First thing to do is top up and bleed the system -- the bleed screw is an 8mm screw located in one of the water hoses/pipes at the gearbox end of the engine, I can't be more specific because it is about a year I since I was last under the bonnet of a Freelander.

With the engine cold remove the bleed screw with coolant tank full allow water to run from the bleed screw until no bubbles.
Then replace the bleed screw and start the engine, open the bleed screw enough to allow any trapped air out. Repeat the process a few times as the engine warms up. Personally when filling I also bleed air out by undoing the small bore hose that run from the timing belt end of inlet manifold to the header tank.

When properly bled the coolant should circulate freely and top of the rad get warm.
If you can't get the water to circulate - suspect the thermostat or water pump or a choked rad. If this is the case I would advise changing the thermostat, water pump, and if anywhere near due timing belt at the same time.

However if the coolant is circulating.
Next thing to do is examine the engine for external water leaks. Always look for leaks when the engine is cold -- when warm the coolant will flash off into steam (which is invisible).

First place to look is the inlet manifold gasket --- look in the corners at the left and right ends of the gasket -- odds are you may find signs of coolant that has trickled down on to the block.

The life expectancy of these gaskets is about 4 years MG-Rover revised this gasket and the fastening in 1998. It is a very simple job to change.

The next place to look is the water pump and thermostat housing and the pipe connections leading from it. If the water pump is suspect it may help to remove the timing belt cover.

If the water is circulating and you can't find an external leak you have a choice
(1) Do a cooling system pressure test (you can make a radiator pressure tester for about 18 quid using a garden sprayer from B&Q).
As before always do a pressure test with a cold engine.

(2) Recommended ***** Just pour 1/3 of a container of K-Seal into the coolant header tank.

K series engines are fussy about coolant, two different types were used. They aren't compatible always use the correct type at 50% concentration.

Blue/green is conventional Ethelene Glycol
Pink/Orange is OAT coolant.

[Edited on 24/6/07 by britishtrident]

Thanks everyone i knew this was a good site to post this. It doesn't look like a head gasket problem yet. I loosened the bleed screw and have lots lots of air coming out so heres hoping thats the problem. Only thing is how did it airlock?

Ronnie

Most likely it airlock because of a slow external water leak, if no trace can be found the only way to find it would be to make up pressure tester, pump the sytem up to 1bar/15psi and look for a leak.

However these days when I encounter any K series water loss problem and it isn't the manifold gasket dump a small ammount of K-Seal in ---- so far it has always worked.

As the K16 1.8 cooling system dosen't contain much coolant about 1/3 of a container is all that is required -- this is really effective hi-tech stuff not inanyway like Barr's leaks or RadWeld.