Not a particularly good bit of video, but worth a watch if you find the car interesting
http://youtube.com/watch?v=M0B5rRy8afs

Congratulations Bosto-san

Nice video Russ!

Glad the pictures are in English!

Cheers

Mike

jejeje

nice one!

Tks

Velly good Luss - well done

quote:

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Originally posted by Guinness

Glad the pictures are in English!

Cheers

Mike

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DO MO ARIGATO

I'm rucky to have you lot to view it! Please pass the link to anyone you think might be interested, or post elsewhere you think people would like to see.
Ta!

great vid and a great car, wish I could afford one.

Do you think a car engine like a Renault and box could be fitted in the rear passenger compartment instead of the bike engines to lower the cost of building one?

I'm sure with some "massaging" of the chassis it could accomodate an inline engine, with associated loss of space in the rear passenger compartment, but how would this make the build any cheaper? If you want a car engine the Toyota MR2 engine & box drops straight in & it's "Free" with your donor - which there's no way you should have to pay more than £500 for. HTH
My production builds have only one engine - I wouldn't particularly recommend the twin engine route as it is so complex - does give stonking performance tho'!

We need some more video of the beast russ- cannot wait to get my one finished asap will be great to get my jordan and yours out together for a filmed blast!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've got a 2nd one up on YouTube now Gary - you were my Ballast at the time!!!!

very nice. props to you!

That is such a neat sight to see your car on the streets. What a joy it is to drive in a vehicle of your own creation. I give you mad props! Top notch.

I so much want to know everything about your twin BEC driveline. Is there a thread, or a website where it is fully explained, with comments about performance and troubles you had getting it to work right?

THAAAANK YOUUUUU!!!

Steve

Hi Steve & thanx for your kind comments.

Re the drivetrain it's been discussed on here a couple of times, but that was a long time ago. It's a lot simpler than most people expect. Basically the LH engine drives the NSR wheel & the RH engine drives the OSR. They are both chain driven with no connection between the 2 wheels/driveshafts. I discussed this with several engineers & racecar people b4 doing it & opinions were varied - none actually agreed with me 100% that it would work! Several were of the opinion that it could only be controlled by complex electronics - they couldn't have been more wrong!

Whilst both wheels are in full contact with the ground it works somewhere in between an open diff & a LSD, in that if one wheel loses traction you still have half power (one engine) to the other wheel, obviously if the revs start going sky high on the spinning wheel you have to back out of the power (but then if you've lost traction to that point you probably should be getting out of the throttle) if you give it large amounts of welly you can obviously break both rear wheels traction, which makes it very easy to throw sideways on damp roads In ordinary use & in the dry it's impossible to break the back end loose without getting really lairy, even on a wet road it's quite easy to control.

Re the engineering of it, the worst thing is that the drive on the LH engine comes out a long way left & you finish up with a VERY short driveshaft, hence it was difficult to adequately support the chainwheel/axle, I have a strange arrangement with 2 bearings inboard & one outboard of the inner c/v joint, if you follow me. The engines are connected & balanced purely by their throttle cables, the clutches share a master cyl (originally I had 2 with a balance bar but it gave problems with clutch grab stalling one engine at times, that never happens now) the gearshifts are on a single lever & linked together, occaisionaly you'll get the situation where one gearbox grabs the next gear as you change up but the other doesn't, even this doesn't affect the driveability, just means one engine revs higher than the other. I've driven home on one engine on more than one occasion.

Problems - I've twisted an axle shaft that the chainwheel runs on & broken the connection between the axle & driveshaft, also tore the n/s drive off b4 I added the 3rd bearing. Since beefing these bits up when they broke it's remained reliable for the last 18 months or so. About the only other problem is that there's very little room in the engine bay & 2 engines generate a LOT of heat, however, unlike the Caparro T1 it hasn't burst into flames & fried me (as yet)

Thank you. Good description.

Your experience with the 'experts' is not unexpected. I find that all types of ideas are shot down before they are even attempted. In your case of bi-axial split drive it is indeed looking like a limited slip/open diff hybrid.

I suppose some simple engine control would help wheelspin if it detected one engine reving above a preset difference in RPM from the other then it would cut spark or fuel to it. That could be in the form of circuit attached to the #1 spark plug lead of each engine and that cuts power to either the injector bank or the coil when it senses the one lead sparking a certain amount more than the other?

But I digress, this is not the place for this conversation!

I love your project, and even more so now that I've seen it on the street. The Japanese really do know 'cool' gadgets IMHO. Maybe you have a new market for your vehicle? Just rename it to 'Tohoda' or 'Hownduh' instead of Furore and sell to Japan? (just joking)