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Landrover Defender???
mark.s - 17/1/08 at 05:39 PM

Don't know if anyone can help me out on this one but a mate of mine is looking to buy a Land rover 110 defender LWB 110 station wagon, are there any earlier models to avoid for any reasons or are they all near bullit proof,

TIA mark

owelly - 17/1/08 at 05:45 PM

Other than not to buy one?????
There are plenty of far better vehicles out there!!

Check the chassis very carefully. Even galved ones can somehow rot!
Check the front axle swivels (and check that there is oil in them and not grease).
Check the bulkhead especially around the windscreen.
Check the tailgate/door for rot.
Don't worry about the 200tdi. Some say the timing gear is a weak spot but it will have been fixed by now!!
TD5 drink fuel!
HTH.

Mr Whippy - 17/1/08 at 05:47 PM

bullit proof, when was that?

I've had four and all were a pain in the butt and seem to be constantly having to fix next doors defender Ancient technology well past it use by date.

TGR-ECOSSE - 17/1/08 at 06:11 PM

Its better to go for at least a 200tdi model. Its the 300tdi that had the timing problems but if its still running it usually means its been fixed and they are good engines (mines done over 200,000 miles) and its also got the r380 gearbox which is a bit better geared than the lt77. Rust can be a problem on the older ones and if its been off road it kills them pretty quick. Buckled bodywork is nothing to worry about they look like that when new

Ps owelly Ive got swivel hub grease in mine

Mr Whippy - 17/1/08 at 06:17 PM

I always used oil as it's much better for the uj's, though it's a pain of a job to change the swivel seals, the canvas boots are a good idea as the chrome was rather poor.

b16mts - 17/1/08 at 06:19 PM

Buy a reliable, comfortable, faster, cheaper, and better looking car, plus it runs on veg oil!

like a toyota hilux surf 3.0td

mines been in the uk 1 year,so no rust, 70,000 miles and cost £2500.

go to www.hiluxsurf.co.uk for all the swaying you need.

martin

TGR-ECOSSE - 17/1/08 at 06:55 PM

This looks like a good one. I've been watching it but as i haven't got rid of some of my other cars i am not allowed to bid on it

Linky

caber - 17/1/08 at 06:56 PM

OHMIGOD! i never thought the oil versus grease would turn up here! It is a bigger issue in Land Rover circles than BEC vs CEC in this neighbourhood!

I have 2 land rovers and one range rover all running oil

Caber

andybod - 17/1/08 at 07:00 PM

words of advise don't do it unless you have very deep pockets horrible money pits as already said corrosion can be a serious problem ,engine transmissions and axles can all be problematic then we can start on suspension/steering ball joints and bushes and to top it all off electrics can be a joke oooh and don't expect one to be water tight front swivels seals can now be filled with landrovers one shot grease think the part number is stc3435 but they still leak as said buy jap i have 10 years land rover experiance mechanic'ing for a 4x4 specialist and wouldn't reccomend one to any body unless all your doing is driving tnem across a field

macspeedy - 17/1/08 at 07:01 PM

if you can stretch to this money i thought it looked genuine

110 Defender

wilkingj - 17/1/08 at 07:31 PM

quote:
Originally posted by owelly
Other than not to buy one?????

Check the front axle swivels (and check that there is oil in them and not grease).
HTH.


Oil has been superceeded by a Moly Grease Compound, This should be used all ALL defenders. Its Better than the oil, and does not leak as much.
The Leaf sprung models had Hardy Spicer joints in the Axles, and needed the Oil as you couldnt grease them.
Defenders are permanant 4WD, and have Constant velocity joint, which really benefit from the moly Grease compound as opposed to oil (EP 80).

Sorry to Disagree, but Having owned both types over the last 35 years, can speak from experience.

If the Vehicle has been modded with the grease ( A one Shot for Life fix, unless they leak very badly) there should be a circular sticker stating this on near each side of the Radiator. All of the Late models come with grease as std. My 1984 CSW didn't, and I did the modification.
The Swivel Balls front axle should not leak (much), and be smooth with no scoring or pitting. These are £80 each, and a lot of work to change.


They are good strong vehicles, and Easy to work on. Everything is Twice the size it needs to be and twice the weight as well. ie Everything is BIG and HEAVY.

However, as already pointed out.
Watch for Rust in the Chassis, and bulkhead, Both are expensive to change, but can be repaired.

Watch for clonking on the gearbox when speeding up and slowing down. The LT77 gearbox has a habit of wearing the splines on the output shaft. They lack Lubrication. To Fix is easy, but expensive. A recon Gbox will cost you £500 plus a Days Labour to fit.


They are 1960's design (a follow on from the RangeRover) and as such need 1960's maintenance and tinkering.


Mine never let me down in over 100,000 miles and 13 years (after I had spent £6K sorting it out).
But there was always something needing attention or doing to it.
I sold it with 194,000 and it just passed its MoT last week, as I got an Email from the new owner. Who is a close mate. I wouldnt have sold it to him if I was not that confident about it.

Beware there are a lot of dogs out there.

Buy what you see... NOT the age / number plate value.
Age is irrelevant,. as its a Big Boys Meccano set. EVERYTHING can be unbolted and replaced.

I have built Two land rovers from boxes of bits, and maintained my 110 CSW for 13 years, involving, a new Chassis, Changing the back axle, engine, and Gearbox. There was only the front axle and the Transfer box which were original, when I sold it.

As I said, Good vehicles if you keep on top of them.

If you need a Garage to do your maintenance and work, expect BIG BILLS.

Fuel consumption on a Defender 110:
200Tdi Diesel approx 26mpg overall.
28Mpg if you drive like a pensioner.
300Tdi slightly better.

You can run them on Bio Diesel as well or make your own.

The TD5 is a nice BMW diesel, and is very smooth. Never owned one, but consumption is a little better than a 2/300 Tdi. Expect 30mpg.
TD5 can be Chipped... and goes to 180BHP ish, making a nice tow vechicle.


Petrol:
2.5 litre 4 cyl approx 18Mpg
3.5 Litre V8 approx 20MPG. Less if you Lurve that V8 Sound! (Keep the V8 for the kit Car)

best option is get a V8, and change to LPG. Thus you get the V8, and 30+ mpg in real terms due to the cheaper fuel costs (by price comparison)
ie 18Mpg, but with half the cost of the fuel.

The 300TDI had problems with the Timing Belt and tensioner. It should have been fixed under a service interval, and should have a yellow Sticker ot Dob of yellow paint on top of the timing cover. No problem once the belt and tensioner have been changed for the better type.

200Tdi has a short but peaky torque Curve.
The 300 Tdi has a much flatter torque curve, and delivers the power over a wider rev range.

I fitted a Large intercooler to mine, and upped the boost to 1 bar (The max you can do safely on a 200Tdi) It transformed the acceleration and towing the caravan was just so much easier for overtaking.

Sorry for the Long Post
Hope this helps

Werner Van Loock - 17/1/08 at 07:35 PM

quote:
Originally posted by mark.s
near bullit proof,

TIA mark



[Edited on 17/1/08 by Werner Van Loock]

TGR-ECOSSE - 17/1/08 at 08:05 PM

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


Oops I forgot about that one. It was me that originaly posted that pic

wilkingj. Spot on

land Rovers are like marmite. You either love em or hate em !!!!

[Edited on 17/1/08 by TGR-ECOSSE]

mcerd1 - 17/1/08 at 08:15 PM

I'd have to agree with almost everything wilkingj said ^^^
but I'd stay away from the TD5 engine ones - they are getting a bit to complicated for there own good

I have to say that I've never owned one, but my dad's had loads - at the moment I'm driving his old 110 station wagon everyday (until my cars fixed)

its was an old TD engined one, but like most of them it blew up, so it got a new 200TDi just before he bought it - the best description of the 200TDi with and LT77 box is probably 'crude' or 'agricultural' - he rebuilt it a few years ago with a new galv'd chassis and got the gearbox recon'd so apart from a bit of corrosion on the alloy panels and some doggy home spraypaint its in really good condition despite the 19 years and 140k on the clock

he also has a disco with a 300TDi + R380 gearbox, it really is a much nicer engine + box

as for the Moly Grease vs oil - all I can say is that with oil they always seemed to be leaking (even after a recon) but since he changed them to the Moly Grease they have be no problem at all