hi all,
doing a head job on a friend stag hes just bought!
still got the triumph engine!
only major prob is that who ever has had it b4, has use rad sealer,
got 1 of the heads off,
and all the water ways are blocked solid!
and i mean solid,
looks like solid lime scale!
any ideas if it can be removed !
been a mechanic all my life and have never seen anything like this !
it just solid!
any ideas ?
(apart from a new head/engine)
cheers paul
The usual way is an acid dip.
Means you gotta take out the block and remove everything since its gonna get immersed in acid, believe its phosphoric.
Come to think of it, you dont hear of many people doing it anymore but that was always the way to do it...
I've worked (for weeks) on trying to get a friends triumph straight 6 to run reasonably well. It's just won't, such a lame engine design I hate it! I wish he’d just throw the lump in the skip and fit a pinto…
cillit bang sorry il get my coat
never come across or hear of this but mmy way would be to use meachincal means i.e. chisel/screw driver/drill etc. to get rid of it os mkae hole and
then use checmicals. you would need to remove core plugs to gain more access.
if it is limescale, then acid will dissolve it, if it solid radseal stuff then I dunno what that is composed of so cannot suggest how you would shift
it. A call to the manufacturers of radsel may give some ideas.
solid rad seal,
had about an hours worth, and it solid all the way through the head !
block semi cleared !
just the head !!
quote:
Originally posted by zzr1100rick2
cillit bang sorry il get my coat
As already said you will need to acid clean it --- beware don't put anything caustic such as drain cleaner near it ---
PS congrats on getting the head off without shearing bolts ---- those angled head bolts strange bit of design main cause of the head gasket failures..
b-awful engine nothing like as good as the Triumph 2000 Straight 6
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
I've worked (for weeks) on trying to get a friends triumph straight 6 to run reasonably well. It's just won't, such a lame engine design I hate it! I wish he’d just throw the lump in the skip and fit a pinto…
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
I've worked (for weeks) on trying to get a friends triumph straight 6 to run reasonably well. It's just won't, such a lame engine design I hate it! I wish he’d just throw the lump in the skip and fit a pinto…
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
I've worked (for weeks) on trying to get a friends triumph straight 6 to run reasonably well. It's just won't, such a lame engine design I hate it! I wish he’d just throw the lump in the skip and fit a pinto…
Triumph stright six is a very smooth running engine, very reliable in 2000cc form. I had a client a well known TV entertainer who ran an ex police 2000 for years ended up with a truly intergalactic mileage with no major work done.
The 2.5 was less good mainly because of the Lucas injection and longer stroke.
Lovely smooth engine ! Would suggest you start with the basics , points/dwell angle, timing, valve clearances, carb diaphragms/pistons ,air leaks , balance etc. Dead easy to work on and simple
I was considering buying one of these... only with the Triumph original engine as although they were a bit of a pig initially - minor rework can see
them being reliable and basically trouble free. Apparently this engine is better than the Rover V8 interchange which regularly happens but drops the
price...
Get in touch with the Triumph Stag Owners Club (UK) - they have a website which is very informative. They may be able to help you.
Steve
not got both heads off yet!
2nd one is being a real pain !
thought the first one was bad !!!
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Lovely smooth engine ! Would suggest you start with the basics , points/dwell angle, timing, valve clearances, carb diaphragms/pistons ,air leaks , balance etc. Dead easy to work on and simple