coozer
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| posted on 25/11/08 at 10:52 PM |
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Rover key fob dead?
The key fob for my Rover 45 had to be right next to the car and needed 2~3 presses to open the doors so I thought I'd change the battery.....
now its dead, wont operate the doors or immobillser at all.
Followed the change over discharge, key in door thing but to no avail it just doesn't work.
Any advise as my other key fob is worse! Started on the wrong one
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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contaminated
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| posted on 25/11/08 at 10:57 PM |
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Same with my old one. Managed to imobilise it with the key code in the door thing (so many turns of the key left and right), and then ran it up to a
dealer who sorted it in 2 seconds flat. Another time it packed up altogether and local specialist came out and programmed me a new key for about £40.
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Andybarbet
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| posted on 25/11/08 at 11:06 PM |
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If its the same style as a freelander one (just 2 buttons), mine started to need the button pressing very hard and had to be very close to the car,
when i opened up its casing, i found the tin saddle that holds the battery in was soldered on and the solder had split.
Easily fixed with a solder sucker and some fresh solder. My partners remote did the same thing a little while later, both work fine now 
And it was very locost !
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thunderace
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| posted on 25/11/08 at 11:59 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coozer
The key fob for my Rover 45 had to be right next to the car and needed 2~3 presses to open the doors so I thought I'd change the battery.....
now its dead, wont operate the doors or immobillser at all.
Followed the change over discharge, key in door thing but to no avail it just doesn't work.
Any advise as my other key fob is worse! Started on the wrong one
just like rover
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britishtrident
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| posted on 26/11/08 at 07:46 AM |
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RTFM --- if you change the fob battery you have to do it and operate the fob with 2 minutes otherwise you have to follow a set procedure to
re-synchronise it with the rolling code..
I don't have a copy of the manual to hand but it involves openning the drivers door and holding both buttons down at the same time.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 26/11/08 at 07:48 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Andybarbet
If its the same style as a freelander one (just 2 buttons), mine started to need the button pressing very hard and had to be very close to the car,
when i opened up its casing, i found the tin saddle that holds the battery in was soldered on and the solder had split.
Easily fixed with a solder sucker and some fresh solder. My partners remote did the same thing a little while later, both work fine now
And it was very locost !
You can buy reconditioning kits for worn out Rover fobs --- Avon diagnostics supply them.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 26/11/08 at 08:00 AM |
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looked the procedure up -- the procedure I gave was for the old 214 Here is a link the the proper procedure for the 45 withe Lucas-Motorola
http://www.remotekey.co.uk/cars/rover/rover-45/faq.asp
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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coozer
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| posted on 26/11/08 at 08:57 AM |
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OK, the saddle was broken, re soldered it, discharged by pressing the buttons without the battery in, opened the car with the key and pressed the
buttons on the fob tons of times.
I'm using my spare now which after all the research I did last night works better if i point it under my chin! Its a mad world.
Thanks guys, reckon I may have to buy a new one and getit programmed.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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