tegwin
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| posted on 30/6/09 at 12:48 PM |
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OT: Replacing blown plaster
Can anyone make a suggestion of how to deal with blown plaster..
I have an area on one wall in a guest bedroom... the area is about 3m wide and 3M high...
The plaster has totally blown off the brickwork behind.
I am going to use a diamond disk to slice the bad plaster down the wall to free it from the good plaster...
The current render/plaster is about 35mm deep....
A standard plastterboard is 19mm deep...
What would be the easiest way of repairing the wall?
Im thinking I could use some thin wooden strips screwed to the brickwork... and then plasterboard screwed/glued over the top to bring me back to the
correct depth of plaster... and then fill the edges and re-paper....
Can anyone suggest an "easier" way of doing this? I imagine that trying to re-render the wall woud be a nightmare...
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owelly
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| posted on 30/6/09 at 12:53 PM |
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I wouldn't bother with making the edges square. It makes it harder to hide the join. I would PVA the brickwork and then 'render' it
with bonding plaster. Then skim with board finish.
The bonding plaster mixes up like cake mix and sticks like blit to a shanket!
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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tegwin
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| posted on 30/6/09 at 01:03 PM |
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My only concern with actually rendering it myself was... how hard is it to get a level finish across the wall?
It would be bloody obvious if its not flat :s
Using the plasterboards kinda means you dont have to worry about that......Would be more epxensive though I guess!
How long does the plaster render/skim take to dry?
[Edited on 30/6/09 by tegwin]
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Would the last person who leaves the country please switch off the lights and close the door!
www.verticalhorizonsmedia.tv
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whitestu
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| posted on 30/6/09 at 01:04 PM |
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I've had to do this loads as most of the plaster in our house wasn't fastened to the walls!
Just hack off all the loose stuff and as Owelly says, Bonding plaster will make up the gap, then skim over the top with finishing plaster.
If it is the first time you've done it, getting it smooth will take ages, but isn't that difficult . Try to get the bonding coat as smooth
as you can, leaving it low enough to get a thin skim [couple of mm] of finishing plaster.
Bonding plaster dries quickly - ideally do the finishing coat the day after the bonding coat, but can be done same day if you have to.
Stu
[Edited on 30/6/09 by whitestu]
[Edited on 30/6/09 by whitestu]
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owelly
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| posted on 30/6/09 at 02:21 PM |
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The bonding will go off quite quick as whitestu says, and then blather the finishing plaster on. Push it in hard and don't worry about the
finish until it goes 'velvetty' to touch. Then splash a bit of water over it with a paint brush and rub-up with the plasterers trowell.
Use the edge of the trowell at 45degrees to the flat of the wall and keep splashing now and again. You'll get some 'slip' (wet mushy
plaster)on the edge of the trowell which you can push back into the plaster.
Once you've mastered plastering, you'll never butter toast the same again......
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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Danozeman
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| posted on 30/6/09 at 03:08 PM |
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Do as owelly says use bonding plaster to fill the gap. PVA the wall the first and let it go off.
if you have loads of time getting a good finish isnt that hard. Let the plaster go off a bit before you work it. You can always sand it afterwards.
Theres some good vids on youtube about how to plaster.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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Confused but excited.
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| posted on 30/6/09 at 04:45 PM |
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But whatever you do DO NOT use a diamond disc in a grinder!
You will choke, even with a mask on.
After two seconds you will not be able to see where you are working.
Lastly you will spend the next month cleaning up dust, as it settles out of the air.
Hack it off with a hammer. this will give you more than enough mess to clean up.
I learned this lesson the hard way. 
Tell them about the bent treacle edges!
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JoelP
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| posted on 30/6/09 at 08:53 PM |
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no one suggesting dot and dabbing a board on? Is this because no one know about it or is it a bad idea?
2 boards is £10 at b&q, a bag or two of drywall adhesive is £8, and a bag or boardfinish or multifinish is about £4.
You will find it a lot easier to get your bit level like this.
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mediabloke
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| posted on 30/6/09 at 09:25 PM |
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If the plaster's blown, there should be no need to use a disc at all - it'll fall off with a wide bolster and a stanley knife should be
enough to cut a clean edge back to decent plaster.
If I had to restore it myself and was unsure about getting a smooth finish, I'd board & skim it - far easier to get a thin smooth finish on
an already-flat surface. I would only plan to sand any blemishes, rather than smooth uneven finishing.
Or I'd prob. hack it off and pay a reliable little man I know to plaster it for me. Don't mean to sound mercenary, but I'd guess
they'd be grateful for the work at the mo.
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Liam
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| posted on 30/6/09 at 09:47 PM |
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If you're going to board rather than use bonding coat, don't faff about with batons. Dot and dab it on instead so you can push it on to
the exact depth you require. Dead easy - even I can dot and dab. About 8 dots by 4 dots uniformly spaced for a full size plasterboard.
If the room is going to be papered, you could probably get away with boarding flush to the existing and filling the edges with easyfill (the powder
stuff that sands really easily). Otherwise push the board back 3mm and skim over if you think you're good enough!
For gauranteed undetectable best result, you'd board flush to existing, fill the edges with bonding and skim the whole wall.
Liam
[Edited on 30/6/09 by Liam]
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