DarrenW
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| posted on 30/7/09 at 05:03 PM |
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Audi A3 1.8T servicing
Anybody got one? Mines a 1999. Only had it 3 months so probs a good idea to give it a service before we take it on holiday. Is there anything to know
about when diy servicing? Anything special on them that should be changed?
(Asking as some BMW diesels have a crankcase breather that should be changed regularly but not on the service schedule).
I maybe should take a look on an Audi forum to see if there is a handy guide - but from experience you read about too many horror stories on car
specific forums.
Now ive got used to the car it feels a bit gutless, especially under 2000rpm. Ive been told that hat they are like, need to be revved a bit to make
them go. Was told an ECU remap makes them much better (guy who is buying my Mac#1 does them for £275) but i dont like modding cars like that. Anyone
else got one? What does your go like?
[Edited on 30/7/09 by DarrenW]
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flak monkey
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| posted on 30/7/09 at 05:31 PM |
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It will be sluggish under 2000rpm the turbo isnt spinning  The 1.8T is very tweakable, but you will pay on the fuel bills sadly. (expect to get not
much more than 30mpg on a motorway run and low 20s on short journeys on a tweaked one)
I dont know of any special things on the VAG 1.8T engine, do make sure its had the cambelt changed at 60k miles or 5 years and thats about it.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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bassett
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| posted on 30/7/09 at 05:37 PM |
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I would class these items as a piece of wee - oil, oil filter, fuel filter, sparks, coils, air filter, pollen filter, coolant change. I would
recommend a oil filter removal socket as my engines quite tight for space for the usual hammer and screwdriver and this really makes it a breeze.
Gearbox oil is a pain to replace due to space and the cambelt and waterpump at 5 years or 40-60k are for the more advanced diy mechanics as it is very
tight that side. Brake bleed is recommended to use a pressure bleeder and bleed the master cylinders and clutch cylinder at the same time. Pads and
discs are pretty standard also. Rears require a piston screw in clamp device(sorry not the proper term) but even halfords do these £15-20 in there
laser range same for the oil filter socket.
Maps - look around and get a specialist i think the norm is about £400 try custom code, PSI tuning, revo(although agressive), APR, or AMD if your near
the south of london. increase in power is nice not done mine yet but been in friends and there is more pushed into the back of the seat feeling once
on boost, before 2.5k it isnt overly different but it is quicker to respond. At the same time worth considering a forge 007p dump valve(recir so no
noisy) as the std ones collapse and a green panel filter to optimise air flow. You can then go OTT with miltek exhaust, silicone turbo intake pipes,
front mont intercoolers etc
[Edited on 30/7/09 by bassett]
My MNR Blog Updated Jan 2010 - Track Day Prep Begins!
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DarrenW
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| posted on 30/7/09 at 05:46 PM |
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So all pretty standard stuff then. Thanks for that. Dont suppose anyone knows what oil is recommended do they - i will take a look at the book
later.
Im just going to do a basic engine service for now. Might take wheels off and check brakes / suspension links etc look OK.
I guessed it would be the turbo not spinning under 2000rpm but surprised at just how gutless it is until it spools up. Only other turbo car ive ever
had is the BMW (320D) and that spools up at lower revs and must have higher torque. For similar bhp they are very different at lower revs. Other than
that im rather taken by the little Audi considering its just a town runabout for us.
One thing i have noticed, hope you follow this description. Rolling forward (no more than 5mph), jab the brakes and i can feel movement in the brake
pedal. Feels strange. Travel a bit faster and its not as noticable. Im not sure if its brake or front suspension related. Last owner had a bush or
linkage changed recently so will take a look behind the wheels to make sure it all looks OK.
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bassett
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| posted on 30/7/09 at 05:53 PM |
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Later ones are 5w30 fully synthetic quaranteed but for earlier engines you may want slightly thicker stuff so id check out the castrol website.
Talking to a chap from millers apparently mobile 1 esp is the best you can get
My MNR Blog Updated Jan 2010 - Track Day Prep Begins!
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flak monkey
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| posted on 30/7/09 at 06:07 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DarrenW
I guessed it would be the turbo not spinning under 2000rpm but surprised at just how gutless it is until it spools up. Only other turbo car ive ever
had is the BMW (320D) and that spools up at lower revs and must have higher torque. For similar bhp they are very different at lower revs. Other than
that im rather taken by the little Audi considering its just a town runabout for us.
Thats your difference, they may be the same power but the diesel will have 1.5x to 2x the torque of the petrol. You have to rev a turbo petrol to get
it to go so the turbo is spinning. Diesels have low pressure turbos which spin up very quickly (you can hear mine from 1200rpm upwards).
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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gregs
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| posted on 30/7/09 at 07:12 PM |
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Get your bits from GSF if you've got one anywhere near you - they do Fuchs oils which is what most cars come out of factories filled with - all
other bits should be OEM (Mann Hummell / Bosch etc)
quote:
Originally posted by DarrenW
So all pretty standard stuff then. Thanks for that. Dont suppose anyone knows what oil is recommended do they - i will take a look at the book
later.
Im just going to do a basic engine service for now. Might take wheels off and check brakes / suspension links etc look OK.
I guessed it would be the turbo not spinning under 2000rpm but surprised at just how gutless it is until it spools up. Only other turbo car ive ever
had is the BMW (320D) and that spools up at lower revs and must have higher torque. For similar bhp they are very different at lower revs. Other than
that im rather taken by the little Audi considering its just a town runabout for us.
One thing i have noticed, hope you follow this description. Rolling forward (no more than 5mph), jab the brakes and i can feel movement in the brake
pedal. Feels strange. Travel a bit faster and its not as noticable. Im not sure if its brake or front suspension related. Last owner had a bush or
linkage changed recently so will take a look behind the wheels to make sure it all looks OK.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 31/7/09 at 08:03 AM |
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I dont think i have a GSF depot close by but there are a couple of Euro Carparts depots close ish.
Just checked manual - it says oil should be multigrade to VW 501 00 spec or API-SF or API-SG. Doesnt state 5w-30 etc which i would normally recognise.
Its due a spark plug change too so that may sort the sluggish bit out.
Anyone heard of these engines sludging up? I know the last owner drove it steady, guessing it may benefit from a few oil changes as a precaution over
next couple of years.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 1/8/09 at 07:07 PM |
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Just a quick thanks for the GSF recommendation. I found a dept in Newcatle today. Excellent service. Bought oil, oil/air/fuel filters, plugs, front
wipers all for only £65.
Oil is Fuchs Titan XTR, bargain at £12 + vat for 5l.
After i change coolant, brake fluid and replace cambelt / tensioner all of the major work wil be done. Great car.
Found out what the brake movement is - pads moving slightly in the calipers. I serviced the car at mates garage (up on 4 poster), one of the other
lads there has a bora that does the same.
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