jacko
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| posted on 24/2/13 at 07:21 PM |
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Tiling a bathroom part 2
Hi all i have removed the old tiles and the old plaster will be off tomorrow
so the question i have is after fitting new plaster board will it need sealing with anything before gluing the tiles on ? if so what is best to use
Thank's
Jacko
[Edited on 24/2/13 by jacko]
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 24/2/13 at 09:13 PM |
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I think professional tilers hate this, but I always give a dilute coat of PVA.
I expect there is a better "something", but having done a number of showers over the years, often in shared bedsit type bathrooms (yep, I
get all the good jobs) I have had very few issues. I often get to fix the jobs done by so called professional builders, who have a tendency to cut
corners but charge well, and are rather tricky to get back to put their work right. Saying that, none appear to be solely tilers, mostly general
builders.
The wickes aquapanel stuff is rather good, but I have also used exterior ply to good effect. I am not keen on ply, especially the 9.5mm stuff a it is
rather wobbly for tiling on. Travis perkins have some good prices on tile backing boards at the moment..... (1200x900 @£11.50 inc each if you buy 4)
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rdodger
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| posted on 24/2/13 at 09:43 PM |
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+1 for PVA!
New plaster or plasterboard is like a sponge and will dry the adhesive too quickly. Diluted pva will seal it and works well on any plaster surface. I
also use it on the floor if tiling that. Ply first then a coat of PVA. No more tiles lifting or cracking.
Looking forward to Tiles 3 the Revenge!
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Barkalarr
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| posted on 24/2/13 at 10:46 PM |
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If you're tiling round the shower make sure you use moisture board instead of plaster board from about the waist down.
I've just had to have the en suite done in our bedroom after 8 years of use because the tiles had blown of the wall and water got in behind
them.
Plaster board went like a sponge.
I know the moisture board or cement board is more expensive but I think a bathroom should last longer than 8 years!
Our tiler used PVA too to cover the walls first.
He made it look really easy because he used a laser guide - he made it look so simple (I'm hopeless and couldn't do it) so it might be an
idea to try and borrow one I these.
Some of the other things he did was to make sure the joints are in the middle of the basin taps and shower taps. Personally if I had done it I would
have just have said right- how can I do this with the least number if cuts.
Ill post a pic tomorrow.
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inkafone
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| posted on 24/2/13 at 11:01 PM |
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Use tile backer board such as "no more ply" or Orbry board on any surface that's going to get wet. Having just taken tiles off
plywood there was very little adhesive stuck to the plywood. PVA will help to waterproof/seal plywood or plaster but it's not good in accepting
adhesive. Tile backer board is not cheap but long term it's the best solution. You can use 12mm board on batons for a stud wall or just put 6mm
board on top of the old tiles with screws/plugs assuming that the wall is reasonably sound.
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bigfoot4616
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| posted on 25/2/13 at 01:04 AM |
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use a proper primer instead of pva. your tile shop will be able to supply a small tub of it. won't cost much more than pva.
i usually use marmox to board out the wet areas
http://www.tilefixdirect.com/category/marmox?gclid=CKyZqoWh0LUCFeXKtAodDRQAkg
its also much better than ply for overboarding before tiling a floor
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snapper
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| posted on 25/2/13 at 06:31 AM |
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And tape the joins between boards
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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