ned
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| posted on 26/10/04 at 11:38 AM |
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Everyday car problem
Got a problem with my everyday car, hoping someone on here might be able to advise.
Been getting a graunching/vibrating noise from the front, possibly left which I'd put down myself to a wheel bearing on it's way out. Much
to my suprise the car passed it's MOT at the weekend as there was no play in the wheels when static or at hand roatated speed which is
apparantly all they check for these days as they don't do a road test for MOT anymore.
I mentioned the problem to the MOT guy who said it could be a worn cv joint and that I could check something by turning full lock and listening to
it.
Well, I forgot exactly what he said and want to know what bits I need to get hold of to fix it as it's really starting to get on my nerves, like
a drone noise, worse at speed, as opposed to engine revs so is mechanical/drivetrain, not engine related.
Car is a turbo diesel 306 @ 60k miles.
Is there anbything I can do to test what the prob is? I'm gonna do the work myself.....
...Any help appreciated.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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mookaloid
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| posted on 26/10/04 at 11:55 AM |
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My Vectra did something similar for a while,
Next thing the diff went west - no drive at all
Seemed very like a wheel bearing, or a CV joint till it gave up.
not trying to scare you or anything
Mark
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JAG
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| posted on 26/10/04 at 12:25 PM |
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How to check for CV joint wear;
Find a large empty space and park the car. Turn the steering towards the joint you suspect i.e ensure that the suspect joint is on the inside of the
turn. Then drive forward slowly letting the clutch in and out to moderate speed.
You should hear a knocking/graunching noise as the car moves and the noise should be coming from the suspect CV joint. If no noise then no problem
with that joint.
This only works for the outboard CV joint NOT the joint between the diff' and driveshaft.
Repeat (with wheels turned in the opposite direction) to check the other side.
I have replaced maybe 4 or 5 of these bloody things - in my opinion they are the FWD cars greatest achilles heal.
[Edited on 26/10/04 by JAG]
Justin
Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!
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nick205
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| posted on 26/10/04 at 12:26 PM |
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From experience with 205 and 306 Pugs I'd say it's the outer CV joint of the driveshaft. The left (or passenger side) driveshaft seems to
be more prone to wear than the other one. This maybe because it's running on the rougher side of the road.
Best place for an exchange driveshaft is German, Swedish and French should be ~£60 from memory.
It's a relatively simple job to do and while your under there it's worth changing the gearbox oil as you will probably lose a little when
removing the shaft from the diff unit anyway.
HTH
Nick
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locoboy
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| posted on 26/10/04 at 12:33 PM |
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I agree with Nick205 here, i have either owned or been in close contact with Pugs in either 106,205 or 306 quise for many years and have changed cv
joints on the 205 and 106 - many times i may add!
Peugeots have a tendancy in my knowledge anyhow to eat drive train components. I wouldnt have another one!
ATB
Locoboy
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ned
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| posted on 26/10/04 at 12:45 PM |
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mm, sounds like i'll be driving round in circles tonight at the local carpark then!
Is there any particular sound I should be listening out for above the normal graunching sounds? It tends to get quieter when going round a right hand
bend, but straight it is noisy and turning left gets slightly noisier.
Think I may have heard a clicking noise on full lock when reversing onto the drieway too...
ho, hum, sounds fairly conclusive so far guys, thanks for the help..
Ned.
re-reading the posts it sounds like a definite passenger side cv joint. can you not just change the balls/bearings in the joint like on bolt in sierra
ones or is it an integral unit to the driveshaft?
While it's apart I think i'll pop the gti-6 brakes I've had lying around on and see if they work a bit better than the standard ones
[Edited on 26/10/04 by ned]
beware, I've got yellow skin
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 26/10/04 at 01:18 PM |
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ned,they do eat driveshafts,it will make a rapid clicking noise if a CV has gone
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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ned
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| posted on 26/10/04 at 01:35 PM |
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i guess being a diesel the engine is a bit heavier on the front end too. I'll get me some quotes, thanks again all..
Ned.
pugspares and GSF both indicate about £90-100 
[Edited on 26/10/04 by ned]
beware, I've got yellow skin
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mookaloid
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| posted on 26/10/04 at 03:00 PM |
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Sounds familiar...........
My Vectra was being driven round in circles when the diff went bang.......
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johnston
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| posted on 26/10/04 at 09:04 PM |
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another thing to check is the wee carrier bearing on the pug shaft
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ChrisW
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| posted on 26/10/04 at 10:39 PM |
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CV joints are notorious for dying on the 306 Ned. Do what I did and swap the whole front end 
Chris
My gaff my rules
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nick205
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| posted on 27/10/04 at 07:33 AM |
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Ned,
Pug 306 driveshafts are the splined tripode type, so an exchange is the easier option. You could strip the joint down, but I suspect the parts and
hassle involved would make it more hassle than it's worth.
You could also try AUTOFIVE as well. Not sure if they do 306 parts or just 205, but usually very helpful and
reasonableprices.
Another weak spot on 306's are the anti-roll bar drop links. Some models are fitted with plasti ones which seem to wear quicker than tad to
sloppy cornering and the odd knock from the front of the car.
HTH
Nick
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skinny
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| posted on 28/10/04 at 09:04 AM |
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maybe it's something different but i had an awful grinding / graunching noise in my car for a while, thought it was the cv joints but turned out
it was because the engine mounts were knackered. can't believe it made such a difference!
told a friend with a 205 xs who thought he his cv's were gone, he changed the engine mounts and it improved loads (although he had run it for so
long on knackered mounts that his cv joints are actually starting to go now...)
might be worth a go, much cheaper and easier than a cv joint.
if you don't fail, you aren't trying hard enough.
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