steve m
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| posted on 30/8/20 at 09:22 AM |
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Pipe freeze spray central heating
Hi all
Does the Pipe freeze spray work ?
As this year ive flushed out all of the central heating system, several times, and dont want to do it again !!"
Problem is, that the main radiator in the lounge, one of the trv.s is leaking, and also i believe stuck in the closed position,
Just wondered if any one has successfully used the spray freeze spray, so that i could change the valve ?
steve
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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Deckman001
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| posted on 30/8/20 at 10:05 AM |
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Hi Steve, I've done it twice, with a 50/50 result. preparation is the key, and it will work even better if done near a bend or joint to give the
ice something to stick to.
Jason
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 30/8/20 at 10:07 AM |
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Yes it does work, I have used it in the past but is kinda expensive for what it is. Fitting a small ball valve below the thermostat and one on the
other valve removes the need for it and costs very little. Funny enough I have just bleed my system this morning and have just fired up the stove to
check it out. That time of year...
I flush the system by connecting a hose fitting to the furthest away radiator top blanking plug with a hose to the toilet and then opening the
thermostat. Done in no time.
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Dingz
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| posted on 30/8/20 at 10:34 AM |
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Yes I have done it a couple of times, just make sure you have a spare can of spray on standby in case something goes wrong!
Phoned the local ramblers club today, but the bloke who answered just
went on and on.
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perksy
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| posted on 30/8/20 at 11:54 AM |
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Its does work and as said above its better on an elbow bend if you can
We use it at work for a quick repair to save getting the portable freezer kit out
Some folks also use bread stuffed into the pipe but I'd go with the freeze spray
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SteveWalker
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| posted on 30/8/20 at 12:53 PM |
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In the past I've just gone for moving anything that might be damaged or stained out of the way; draining the radiator (should be possible if the
valve is stuck closed); then having a new valve, short stub of pipe and straight coupling ready assembled; cutting the pipe and fitting the new
assembly rapidly - compression fitting works, push-fit is even easier.
However, one method that I have not yet tried, but have heard good reports about is for sealed systems, release the pressure and for vented systems,
put corks in the header tank outlet and vent pipes. Either should mean that breaking open a connection allows a little out, but then the rest is kept
in due to a vacuum - probably good to bleed all the radiators before doing any of that though as the gas will expand otherwise.
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steve m
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| posted on 30/8/20 at 03:49 PM |
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Thanks for the response, i will give it some thought,
The reason for draining the system earlier in the year, was that this rad, a very big one !! and the furthest away from the boiler and pump,
over last winter was cold, no matter what, and the whole room really did need this rad,
any way, i drained the system down, and got sludge out, and thought that would be the end of my problems
Ive managed to free the valve off, a bit, with a hammer so water is flowing, and the rad is getting warm ish, at the top,
but cold at the bottom, so i am presuming its still got sludge in the rad, so i think i am back to draining the system AGAIN,
But now flushing in the other direction, something i should of done earlier !!
steve
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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MikeR
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| posted on 30/8/20 at 04:49 PM |
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One related words of caution. I had a radiator I could never get warm. Eventually I replaced the window it was under with patio doors. As part of
taking the pipe work back and fitting a vertical radiator I removed pipe work. Doing that I found a pipe 90+% blocked. Quick blast of an air line
fired some crud out of the removed pipework and into a bucket. Are you certain the pipes not blocked?
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perksy
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| posted on 30/8/20 at 07:47 PM |
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Run with Sentinel XT400 in the system for a fortnight, then drain (and watch all the crap come out) and refill using Sentinel XT100 to protect the
system going forward
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paulf
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| posted on 30/8/20 at 08:49 PM |
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I fitted a ball valve in the vent pipe and another in the pipe from header tank to system, now i can turn them off and remove a rad and only lose the
water in the rad,very little leaks from the pipework.
quote:
Originally posted by SteveWalker
However, one method that I have not yet tried, but have heard good reports about is for sealed systems, release the pressure and for vented systems,
put corks in the header tank outlet and vent pipes. Either should mean that breaking open a connection allows a little out, but then the rest is kept
in due to a vacuum - probably good to bleed all the radiators before doing any of that though as the gas will expand otherwise.
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