David Jenkins
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| posted on 4/2/24 at 04:12 PM |
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Taps...
I'm feeling vaguely cross & frustrated...
Our kitchen taps are reasonably modern (maybe 5 or 6 years old) and they're starting to drip. I deliberately chose "old tech" taps
with rubber washers as the water in my district eats the brass around ceramic tap valves (they usually give up after 2 or 3 years). I know that all I
need to do is to replace the washers, possibly clean up the rim where the washers seat (I have the tool) and reassemble to fix the problem... except I
can't get the brass tap valve bodies to unscrew from the chromed body. Nothing will shift them, and I've got to the point where, if I push
any harder, I'm going to break something. They are absolutely solid, even though there's no sign off corrosion.
First dumb question - do kitchen tap valves use a conventional thread, or are they a reverse thread?
Otherwise - can anyone suggest a way of getting these damn things undone? I thought of applying some heat, but I expect that there are o-rings in
there.
I'm receiving earache from SWMBO about these taps, so any guidance would be appreciated! I really don't want to pay good money to a real
plumber if I can possibly avoid it, as it should be a trivial job.
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nick205
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| posted on 4/2/24 at 05:04 PM |
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Sympathetic, but not solution I'm afraid.
Had to replace ceramic valves on my dripping kitchen tap and damn they're tight.
I'm wondering if plumbers have a particular tool (impact gun?) for the the.
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 4/2/24 at 08:52 PM |
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it is common for taps to have counter threads for various parts.
but in any case, one of the usual methods of releasing a stuck thread is to try to tighten it, just to break the bond.
I recently had an issue with a 75yearold fitting, where calcium deposits had built up, making it difficult to operate. dismantled, using some force.
cleaned up, cleaned up more on a polishing wheel, and reassembled with suitable lubrication, almost like new.
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Slimy38
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| posted on 4/2/24 at 09:09 PM |
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Last time I removed a brass valve from a chrome tap I used a breaker bar. I was more worried about rounding things off than anything snapping. It
moved eventually.
I reckon they were close to caliper carrier bolts level of tightness.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 5/2/24 at 07:53 AM |
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Hand SWMBO the spanner tell her to fix it herself.
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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jps
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| posted on 5/2/24 at 08:16 AM |
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Heat wise, maybe try pouring a kettle of boiling water over them? Might do enough just to help it move?
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nick205
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| posted on 5/2/24 at 08:25 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
Hand SWMBO the spanner tell her to fix it herself.
Mr Whippy - you sound like you may have encountered similar issues
When I've referred the job to SWMBO I start getting all manner of tool, thread and part questions!
Then then job comes back at me at SWMBO seems even more hacked off than she was to start with.
(especially when I've advised "you need a hammer"......"NO, NOT THAT HAMMER!"
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nick205
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| posted on 5/2/24 at 08:27 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jps
Heat wise, maybe try pouring a kettle of boiling water over them? Might do enough just to help it move?
Sounds good advice!
I considered heat, but ruled out my blow torch for fear of knackering the chrome finish and having to replace the tap.
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jacko
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| posted on 5/2/24 at 05:29 PM |
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Wife may not be to far off rap rags round tap then try tapping with a hammer
Dont blame me if you damage anything
555
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Slimy38
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| posted on 6/2/24 at 10:11 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nick205
quote:
Originally posted by jps
Heat wise, maybe try pouring a kettle of boiling water over them? Might do enough just to help it move?
Sounds good advice!
I considered heat, but ruled out my blow torch for fear of knackering the chrome finish and having to replace the tap.
I was wondering whether heat was a good idea at all, given that you have brass on the inside and steel on the outside? Wouldn't the brass expand
more than steel? I'd expect a freeze spray or similar to be more effective to separate the parts.
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russbost
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| posted on 6/2/24 at 11:32 AM |
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The brass "tap inserts" where they go into the chrome body are always a normal RH thread, LH threads are only on the inside to lift the
washers,
Heat/freeze spray alternately might help, but I virtually guarantee that vibration using an sds drill with chisel will shift them. Just wrap rags
around any chrome or anything else in the local vicinity to avoid damage
Back in the day when I was running a garage the air chisel used to get a LOT of use for moving stubborn nuts/bolts etc.!
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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rgrs
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| posted on 7/2/24 at 02:08 PM |
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Try a deep socket on an impact driver, normally gets them to budge without risking breaking the tap.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 8/2/24 at 11:50 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
Hand SWMBO the spanner tell her to fix it herself.
I was tempted...
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 8/2/24 at 11:52 AM |
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Thanks for the ideas...
...I refuse to pay 10's of £££ for a new tap unit, when all it needs is 50p for a couple of rubber washers, plus 30 minutes effort in normal
situations!
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nick205
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| posted on 14/2/24 at 10:21 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
Thanks for the ideas...
...I refuse to pay 10's of £££ for a new tap unit, when all it needs is 50p for a couple of rubber washers, plus 30 minutes effort in normal
situations!
Spot on David - don't replace for £££ when you can fix £
(planet could do with a lot more of this IMHO)
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 4/3/24 at 02:10 PM |
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Late update:
Mulled over the suggestions made in this thread, decided that a rattle gun would probably be best but I don't have one and couldn't justify
the expense for this piddling little job, so went for Plan B.
Had the afternoon to myself, turned the water off, stripped the knobs off the taps, and unleashed my air-powered ratchet 1/2" drive thingy on the
inner tap body...
... took about 2 seconds each to overcome any resistance!
All I need now is a new pair of 5/8" rubber washers and I'll be a happy bunny, now that I know that in future I can undo them with a 17mm
spanner. Future washer swaps will be the 10-minute job this should have been in the first place. 
Thanks for all the advice, and for giving me lots of avenues to explore...
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Slimy38
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| posted on 4/3/24 at 03:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
now that I know that in future I can undo them with a 17mm spanner. Future washer swaps will be the 10-minute job this should have been in the first
place.
I'm going to remind you of that in a few years time! My second tap fix was just as hard as the first, even though I made sure to clean
everything and not overtighten. The frequent heat cycles and limescale laden water will ensure that even with the best of intentions it won't be
any easier!
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 5/3/24 at 01:59 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
I'm going to remind you of that in a few years time! My second tap fix was just as hard as the first, even though I made sure to clean
everything and not overtighten. The frequent heat cycles and limescale laden water will ensure that even with the best of intentions it won't be
any easier!
At least I'll know which tool to apply in that case!
Quite a laugh getting the right-sized replacement washers too - the old ones were roughly 5/8" diameter (just under 16mm). Fortunately I thought
to look these up on the inter-webby before I went shopping... this is described as a 3/8 BSP washer, usually just marked 3/8" on the packet. Of
course it is... Nothing is straightforward in UK plumbing!
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