computid
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| posted on 29/2/24 at 09:23 PM |
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1K or 2K paint for vintage lamp
Hi all,
Very off topic, but I figured the collective might have some advice!
A few months ago I acquired a vintage designer lamp in an Italian junk store (A 1970's Stilnovo Topo for those interested!). It's a
beautiful piece that fits my MCM aesthetic, but it's in terrible shape. They're around £500 new, and I paid just 15 Euros for it!
The paint is very chipped and damaged, and theres a lot of surface corrosion. I'm planning to media blast the thicker pieces back to bare metal,
and likely wire wheel down the thinner shade (worried that the media blasting will damage the thin steel). I want to repaint it to its original colour
(1970's Orange!) and thus I'm going to be spraying it.
I'm afraid I don't have a decent spray setup, so I'll be settling for strung up plastic sheets in my garage and spray tins. I've
sprayed a fair few things with tins before, but they've mostly been plastic and it's mostly been cheap paint.
The lamp is undoubtably going to need priming, painting, and lacquering, and the inside of the shade will need to be white as opposed to orange. I
won't be painting this in ideal temperatures, and I won't be able to cure it in an oven. I'm familiar with sanding between coats, and I
always warm paint up well before use.
What I'm not sure about is if I should be using 1K or 2K paint. I understand 2K lays on thicker, is more resilient, and can give a better finish.
I'd be buying 2K with a hardener for low temperature drying for obvious reasons, and I'd then need a 2K primer and 2K lacquer.
Alternatively, 1K is cheaper, easier to use by all accounts, and I can add a second coat the next day without the tin having gone off from the
hardener.
So, LCB collective font of all knowledge, should I be using 1K or 2K paint and why? Also, any and all good advice appreciated!
Many thanks!
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ReMan
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| posted on 29/2/24 at 09:47 PM |
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The obvious thing that comes up for 2k paining is the emphasis on needed a proper respirator mask kit.
I'd have thought 1k would be adequate for that which will get its own baking on during use?
www.plusnine.co.uk
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computid
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| posted on 29/2/24 at 10:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
The obvious thing that comes up for 2k paining is the emphasis on needed a proper respirator mask kit.
I'd have thought 1k would be adequate for that which will get its own baking on during use?
I've got decent respirators for resins etc. that I use for carbon & GRP layup, and theres enough airflow in the workshop that for this small
amount I wouldn't be overly concerned with exposure to it.
The top shade will get hot yes, but the rest of the lamp (the arms etc.) won't. I'm leaning towards 1K but just wanted to see what the
general thoughts were! Thanks for the reply!
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 1/3/24 at 07:29 AM |
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Try heating up the paint in hot water first (60 degs in a kettle) for a really nice shiny finish.
forum link
Researching into why this works so well seems to be down to the hot thin paint atomizing better from the nozzle and leads to no risk of orange peal or
runs. You will also be able to get a perfect finish from 1k paint rather than the toxic 2k stuff 
I managed to respray the whole side and rear of my volvo in an unheated cold garage (while snowing outside), with standard 1k paint cans and the shine
is fantastic.
[Edited on 1/3/24 by Mr Whippy]
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 1/3/24 at 07:50 AM |
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Whatever paint you use, you need to get the lamp warm prior to spraying. No use having warm paint hit a cold surface. Using an electric heater (a
simple halogen heater is ideal, but even a fan heater etc, or a hot air gun will do) to get it all warm to the touch.
Re media blasting, with a good operator and the correct media, even thin steel should be OK. Vapour blasting is another option.
An epoxy primer should do a good job. Saying that, 2K primer is fabulous stuff. If you can get it all warm, you can apply a few coats in a fairly
short time, as the solvent content flashes off. When painting cars I can get 4 coats from one mix. Paint the car, then immediately do it again. Then
give it 10 mins or so and repeat. This weather, give it a few hours to flash off and carefully bring it inside overnight to cure. Then you will have a
great base to flat and prep for your choice of topcoat.
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ReMan
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| posted on 1/3/24 at 01:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by computid
quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
The obvious thing that comes up for 2k paining is the emphasis on needed a proper respirator mask kit.
I'd have thought 1k would be adequate for that which will get its own baking on during use?
I've got decent respirators for resins etc. that I use for carbon & GRP layup, and theres enough airflow in the workshop that for this small
amount I wouldn't be overly concerned with exposure to it.
The top shade will get hot yes, but the rest of the lamp (the arms etc.) won't. I'm leaning towards 1K but just wanted to see what the
general thoughts were! Thanks for the reply!
Nice lamp BTW, willl bee pleased to see it done
www.plusnine.co.uk
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 4/3/24 at 02:22 PM |
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As I'm sure you know, 95% of the effort to get a first-class finish is in the preparation. Filling, rubbing down, fine filler, more rubbing
down, filler primer, more rubbing down (!), base coat, top coat.
If you decide that you don't want to use fancy paints, I found that the best rattle-can paint that was easily available came from Halfords, of
all places - specifically the stuff they mix up to order from assorted ingredients at the back of many of their stores (I presume they still do
that?). It's way, way better than the stuff in the run-of-the-mill spray cans, and I'm sure that you'll find the colour you want from
their 'colour recipe book'. For example, the painted bits on my car were Mercedes Signal Yellow and they matched my unpainted fibreglass
bits perfectly.
[Edited on 4/3/24 by David Jenkins]
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