Jasper
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| posted on 15/6/06 at 11:30 AM |
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DIY advice needed - compound to fill floor holes
I've dug some channels in the concrete floor in my lounge to run new rad pipes. I've going to be laying oak plank flooring over the
top.
I need to fill the holes with something - preferably with some elasticity in it, as there is a section between a concrete and suspended wooded floor
I also want to fill.
Any recommendations? Self leveling would be good too.
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Peteff
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| posted on 15/6/06 at 12:12 PM |
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Don't bury your central heating pipes in anything like concrete, won't the oak plank flooring span the channel you've dug? Make a U
channel or ] with a flat top to cover them and leave access
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Jasper
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| posted on 15/6/06 at 12:19 PM |
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I've left no joints in the pipes, all done with a bender.....
It will span, but worried incase I get any creak...
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Aboardman
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| posted on 15/6/06 at 12:29 PM |
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copper pipes which are been incased in concrete should have a 2mm plastic sheath on it (the concrete will attack the copper), i had to use when when
doing work at my brothers, and it does not fit an external pipe bender had to use a spring bender,
if you are going to use concrete on a unprotected pipe then encase the pipe with plastic or double wrap with electric tape.
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Jasper
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| posted on 15/6/06 at 12:33 PM |
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Ahhh - that makes sense - will gaffer tape do it?
Didn't want to use concrete - wondered if there was anything easier to mix up and lay?
[Edited on 15/6/06 by Jasper]
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ned
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| posted on 15/6/06 at 12:37 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Jasper
Didn't want to use concrete - wondered if there was anything easier to mix up and lay?
smash? 
beware, I've got yellow skin
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Johnmor
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| posted on 15/6/06 at 12:38 PM |
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Floor tile adhesive,
If you use the type for bonding to wooden floors then it will remain elastic and should not crack. Plus it wont set as hard as concret and can be
broken out when needed.
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viatron
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| posted on 15/6/06 at 12:49 PM |
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Floor leveling compound available from Wicks and the lkes i reckon.
Mac
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 15/6/06 at 12:50 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Aboardman
copper pipes which are been incased in concrete should have a 2mm plastic sheath on it (the concrete will attack the copper), i had to use when when
doing work at my brothers, and it does not fit an external pipe bender had to use a spring bender,
if you are going to use concrete on a unprotected pipe then encase the pipe with plastic or double wrap with electric tape.
I can atest to this! 
Whoever built the extension on my house - long before I bought it - simply plumbed all the central heating and water pipes for both the bathroom
(downstairs) and the kitchen (including the watyer main) in copper pipe and then poured the concrete floor!
consequently the first thing I knew was a couple of months ago when I came home to find my bathroom flooded where the concrete has eaten through the
water main! then spent the rest of the evening chipping away at the concrete to try and find the source!
bloody cowboys......
sooner or later I am going to have to replumb the whole extension but that means ripping up all the kitchen floor tiles as well as removing about
million tons of concrete...
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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Jasper
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| posted on 15/6/06 at 01:55 PM |
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Oh bugger....
Cheers for the advice chaps.....
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Peteff
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| posted on 15/6/06 at 02:08 PM |
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Dave, leave the pipes where they are and replace them with some routed where you can get at them from before where they enter the kitchen and
extension. There's usually a way round, especially with the new plumbing methods like push fit and alkathene and plastic compression fittings
for underground.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 15/6/06 at 02:11 PM |
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yup - was my thoughts but wifey doesn't want ugly pipes in her kitchen.... suppose I can box them in but this going to be a big job
Still my six attempts at getting a fuel pipe down the tunnel have given me loads of practice at pipe bending!
[Edited on 15/6/06 by DaveFJ]
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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Jasper
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| posted on 15/6/06 at 02:48 PM |
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You can get the covers that just click over twin pipes, I've used them and they 'disappear' when painted in.
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Syd Bridge
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| posted on 15/6/06 at 03:53 PM |
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You could fill the channels with mix up foam, or maybe that spray stuff from places like B&Q. That's if it's not meant to be
underfloor heating, of course. The foam would insulate from everything, and keep the pipes in place, and accessible if you hack the foam away.
Cheers,
Syd.
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 15/6/06 at 04:53 PM |
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Dave just a thought from outside the box.
If the pipes in the floor are straight enough could you not (In theoryat least).
Cut open the two ends and then slide a new plastic liner pipe inside the copper. Would save you a lot of grief with the missus although the flow rate
would drop. As I said just thinking out of the box
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