IainB
|
| posted on 22/10/06 at 06:08 PM |
|
|
Mountain bike help
trying to give the old mountain bike a service and I cant get the rear sproket off the wheel?
got the ball bearings out but cant see how the (cassette?) comes off. Looks like some kind of splines on the inside but nothing iv seen before.
Anyone?
Iain
http://s43.photobucket.com/albums/e365/IainB1986/
|
|
|
|
|
t.j.
|
| posted on 22/10/06 at 06:20 PM |
|
|
You need to have a special tool ( or fabrikate) which fits in to the groves inside the cassette.
Then anti-clock turn it and the cassette will come off.
Do NOT turn it by the two little holes as the cassette will fall apart. (lot off hassle to get it together  )
[Edited on 22/10/06 by t.j.]
|
|
|
Liam
|
| posted on 22/10/06 at 06:21 PM |
|
|
The outer most ring on the cassette (not the small cog but the ring on top of it) is the lock ring. Needs to be undone with a splined tool, or you
might be able to knock it off with a drift in the notches (but then how do you re-torque it?).
Liam
|
|
|
t.j.
|
| posted on 22/10/06 at 06:24 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Liam
The outer most ring on the cassette (not the small cog but the ring on top of it) is the lock ring. Needs to be undone with a splined tool, or you
might be able to knock it off with a drift in the notches (but then how do you re-torque it?).
Liam
No Liam,
This time you're wrong 
I've experienced it   the wrong way and the right way, as my GIANT cassette stays fit the same
[Edited on 22/10/06 by t.j.]
|
|
|
Liam
|
| posted on 22/10/06 at 06:27 PM |
|
|
Oh?
Looks like there's a lock ring on the cassette, but must admit i'm confused by that internal spline! Not like any hub/cassette i've
played with. Still - 7-speed - ooooooold skoooool!! That's probably why
Liam
[Edited on 22/10/06 by Liam]
|
|
|
john_p_b
|
| posted on 22/10/06 at 06:28 PM |
|
|
cassette removal tool, local bike shop about 6 quid, stick it in a vice, slide the splines over it and turn the wheel anti clockwise, tis a lot easier
than trying to hold the wheel and a spanner on the tool all at the same time.
or you could always do what i used to and just take the wheel to a bike shop and ask them to remove it for you
built a car, built a home, had a family. lost the family, lost the home, still got the car.
|
|
|
t.j.
|
| posted on 22/10/06 at 06:33 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Liam
Oh?
Looks like there's a lock ring on the cassette, but must admit i'm confused by that internal spline! Not like any hub/cassette i've
played with. Still - 7-speed - ooooooold skoooool!! That's probably why
Liam
right 7 speed
can't have all.
Two kids, wife, house, locost......
|
|
|
IainB
|
| posted on 22/10/06 at 07:06 PM |
|
|
Ta guys, looks like il be going to the bike shop tomorrow
Next question, whats the deal with this crank? Shes got a wee bit of play which i need to get sorted out. How do I go about this?
Please dont tell me I need a special tool, this has to be done on super student budget!
Oh, and enough of the shi*t bike slagging! Its a Barracuda Slalom which has been through much abuse!
Iain
http://s43.photobucket.com/albums/e365/IainB1986/
|
|
|
t.j.
|
| posted on 22/10/06 at 07:09 PM |
|
|
remove cranks and pedals (losen bolts)
Then replace complete !
There are no bearings only a nylon bush.
So back to the ...........
|
|
|
IainB
|
| posted on 22/10/06 at 07:13 PM |
|
|
The cranks are on tighter than a nun's c*nt. Is there a trick to getting then off? Iv already had a mouthful off pedal...
Iain
http://s43.photobucket.com/albums/e365/IainB1986/
|
|
|
rusty nuts
|
| posted on 22/10/06 at 07:43 PM |
|
|
Use a puller that screws into the center of the crank after removing the securing bolt
|
|
|
Peteff
|
| posted on 22/10/06 at 07:51 PM |
|
|
Cranks.
I find beating the sh!t out of them with my nylon hammer gets them off My crank has roller bearings not a nylon bush and only has 18 gears of which
I probably use 6. I don't think the need to keep up with the trendy new bikes has filtered through to me yet. I remember my old man's
theory about bikes, you can sit on them going downhill and lean on them going up and when the going gets tough the sensible get off and push 
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
|
|
|
Liam
|
| posted on 22/10/06 at 08:00 PM |
|
|
Where is the play in the crank? Is it in the bottom bracket itself or the square taper that joins the crank arm to the bottom bracket spindle? If
it's the square taper you might get away with tightening it if the bolt is loose (but sounds like it's already tight?). But bear in mind
when a square taper has started to wear round it's doomed - you'll tighten it every ride and it's just a matter of time before
it's history!
If the play is in the bottom bracket the bearings are probably history (and it says 'sealed cartridge ....' so you definately have
bearings and not just a nylon bush. They'll most likely be standard bearings you can replace from any bearing supplier whatever the
manafacturer says. And i'm afraid you need a special tool to get the bottom bracket out - see that grey plastic spline ? cheap from
somewhere like chain reaction cycles though.
Or just live with some play in the bb till it goes pop!
Liam
|
|
|
ruskino80
|
| posted on 22/10/06 at 08:07 PM |
|
|
normally play in the crank arms would worsen as the alluminium wears away and is knacked then permanently-heat and a big hammer if you have no
puller-just replace whole bottom bracket £15.
get that chain soaking in some oil too!!
[Edited on 22/10/06 by ruskino80]
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 23/10/06 at 08:04 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by t.j.
There are no bearings only a nylon bush.
I don't believe that, a nylon bush would last 2 seconds. Even the old stle/cheap mikes have steel racesaqnd ball bearings.
What you see is a nylon cup that secrws into the bottom bracket - the sealed bearing then sits inside the cup.
... and yes, you need special tool to remove the pedals and to undo the the cups (chain side is left hand trhead).
If you are near me, pop in I have all the tools and a big hammer.
|
|
|
NS Dev
|
| posted on 23/10/06 at 12:03 PM |
|
|
oh come on you lot, you must surely have bikes too!!!
he doesn't mean that it rotates in a nylon bush!! he means that the nylon bush is what retains the bottom bracket.
You use a spined shimano bottom bracket tool to uncrew the nylon collar/bush (which just centres the other end of the cartridge) and then use the same
tool at the other end to unscrew the bb from the frame.
You need a big hammer or crank extractor for removing the cranks.
unfortunately you are not in leics or I'd do the lot for you!
Just knocking together a decent road bike at the mo, can't get any more out of my MTB on the road on my way to work, 19mph avg over 24miles is
as good as I can get, so I am doing the honourable thing and blaming the bike!!!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
|
|
|
t.j.
|
| posted on 23/10/06 at 07:22 PM |
|
|
hmmm,
Need to improve my english!
|
|
|
jolson
|
| posted on 23/10/06 at 10:40 PM |
|
|
First the cassette... it's not a cassette. It looks like a freewheel. If it was a cassette then you'd see the bolt holding the freehub
down inside the hole. You need the proper tool to get it out. Don't try making one, they're cheap to buy and they need to be
hardened.
The cranks..... you've removed the retaining bolts, you now need a special tool (crank extractor) that threads into the crank centre and then
screws down on the end of the axle. Don't use a hammer, you'll only end up screwing the crank and you'll have 2 parts to replace.
The hammer is only used after you mess it up and want to beat it to pieces.
The axle is a sealed bearing unit, all pressed together in the factory and not servicable; you can't replace the bearings. You throw it out and
put in a new one. Make sure the new axle is the same length as the old one or you will mess up the shifting.
If the play is in the bottom bracket axle, then a new axle assembly is all you need. Another special tool removes the old assembly from the shell. If
the play is in the tapered hole in the cranks, you are looking at new cranks. One old bodge for temporarily tightening them up is to put a bit of
thin brass shim around the taper then tighten it all up. It'll last for a little bit, then you'll have to repeat when they loosen
again.
The good news is that if you take it to a bike shop, they can have the whole thing fixed in under 20 minutes (with the right tools)
[Edited on 2006-10-23 by jolson]
Cheers
John
|
|
|
.jpg)
