greggors84
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| posted on 24/12/06 at 02:27 AM |
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Mini Engine Transplant
A mate has a automatic Mini 998. He says the gearbox is knackered and he is weighing up his options.
Fit a manual gearbox to the engine if possible,
Fit a manual 998 engine.
Go for a mini/metro 1275 engine.
I said i wasnt sure about fitting the manual gearbox to the existing engine as they come as one unit so i think that idea is unlikely as he doesnt
really like the auto anyway.
Is the 1275 out the metro a straight swap? How available are the engines, will have a look on ebay for prices/availability.
Im guessing im going to be doing most of the work on it, so if the 1275 is very similar to putting a 998 in I would rather put the 1275 in as I wont
be paying!
Chris
The Magnificent 7!
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 24/12/06 at 07:54 AM |
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the auto engine is different to manual so you cant change the box,metro ones are similar but mounts will have to be swapped and gearing will be wrong
unless you use metro sized wheels,easy option is to get a rusty min and change the bits over....front subframes are different with man/auto as well.
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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donut
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| posted on 24/12/06 at 08:44 AM |
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I am currently doing a mini auto to manual swap and John is correct, you will need a different front subframe as the auto one is very different.
Contact minidave at http://www.minidave.co.uk/ he will be able to tell you which front subframe to use as there
are a few different types for different years of car.
Andy
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/andywest1/
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hillbillyracer
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| posted on 24/12/06 at 09:57 AM |
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Any "gearbox in the sump" A series will fit but some will need a few bits & pieces swapped about but nothing difficult. Go for a whole
unit, dont look at swapping the engine to a manual box cos by the time you've had the hassle of pulling flywheels & cleaning up gaskets it
just aint worth it.
One thing to check is the clutch type, there are long & short arm types, the long arm types have an arm about 7" long on the flywheel cover
& the short ones about 3". It doesnt matter which you have just so long as you use the linkage on the flywheel cover belonging to that
clutch (the master & slave cylinders are the same). Some Metros had a cable clutch & you will need the short arm hydraulic linkage to convert
it.
Dunno if the auto driveshafts are the same but real old stuff will have UJ couplings instead of inner CV joints. It's easy to swap CV & UJ
driveshafts on the car but I dunno about the diff outputs.
I wouldnt worry too much about the gearing, it wont be far out if at all, I think most Metros ran a 3.44-1 diff which is the same as a 998 manual Mini
would have had anyway & if it's different it will be higher which is probably a good thing anyway. You'll likely need the speedo bits
from a manual Mini & may need to swap the speedo drive gear in the box to get it reading right, try to find out if this needs doing before you put
the engine in as it aint a funny job to do later on.
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zzr1100rick2
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| posted on 24/12/06 at 10:12 AM |
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Wouldnt he be better off putting an engine in the back a bit more work perhaps but think of the end result
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jimmyjoebob
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| posted on 24/12/06 at 10:16 AM |
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I have a front subframe from an f plate manual mini if you need one.
If at first you don't succeed, hide all evidence you ever tried!
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hillbillyracer
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| posted on 24/12/06 at 10:16 AM |
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Well I've got a T16 turbo Rover engine to sell. Very cheap 200bhp would make a Mini fairly move!
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 24/12/06 at 10:39 AM |
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Sorry hillbillyracer you are wrong ! an automatic a series may look like any other a series but thats as far as it goes. There is no way for the oil
pump pick up to line up , the crank is different with no nose for the flywheel and thats just for starters .
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 24/12/06 at 10:43 AM |
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Chris , the drive shafts are different as well . Tell your mate to just change the front subframe complete for one with the same type mountings as his
car. Fitting a Metro lump is fairly easy , helps to change the timing end backplate though. Also you need to change the pedal cluster and fit a clutch
master etc, Metro exhausts have 2 down pipes although manifold or exhaust can be changed
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hillbillyracer
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| posted on 24/12/06 at 12:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Sorry hillbillyracer you are wrong ! an automatic a series may look like any other a series but thats as far as it goes. There is no way for the oil
pump pick up to line up , the crank is different with no nose for the flywheel and thats just for starters .
And just where did I say that it was the same?
I've never done anything with an auto box A series so I didnt know if it'd fit the manual box or not, what I meant was that it wouldnt be
worth the hassle if it did as you you can pickup a complete motor little money.
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Syd Bridge
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| posted on 24/12/06 at 12:57 PM |
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All the boys' grasstrackers ran Metro 'A+' engines. To sound like a cracked record, yes, the blocks of the auto and manual
are different.
If you are using 12" wheels, there should be no worry with gearing. Metro and late (A+ engined)Minis ran 12" wheels. Mini's had a
3.1 final drive, Metro's 3.1, and 3.65 common. MG Metro's had a 3.2, which is very rare. (But good for the grassstracker running 10"
wheels! ) 3.44 appeared in some Metro vans??
To change from Metro to Mini mounts, remove the front (pulley end) Metro mount and replace with the standard Mini item, and bolt straight in. The
flywheel end covers (at least all that I encountered) were all tapped for the mini mounts, even on Metros. Remove the steel Metro mounts from the
flywheel cover end, and bi 'em.
We used old type clutches/flywheels, and binned the cursed verto pieces of junk!
Metro exhaust won't fit either. You'll best want a late model injection exhaust (twin pipe), 3 branch, or standard Mini. And an MG Metro
inlet with 45mm carb, for any performance and still look standard! Or you could use all standard Mini inlet/exhaust with the 38mm carb.
Merry Christmas,
Cheers,
Syd. 
[Edited on 24/12/06 by Syd Bridge]
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 24/12/06 at 01:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by hillbillyracer
Any "gearbox in the sump" A series will fit but some will need a few bits & pieces swapped about but nothing difficult.
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hillbillyracer
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| posted on 24/12/06 at 04:37 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
quote:
Originally posted by hillbillyracer
Any "gearbox in the sump" A series will fit but some will need a few bits & pieces swapped about but nothing difficult.
And so it will fit as a complete unit which is what I meant! I never meant any A series block will fit any A series gearbox, there are tons of
differences between the manaul units let alone autos.
I suggest in my post not to bother swapping gearboxes & blocks about as it aint an easy job & just to fit the complete setup from another car,
such as a Metro.
I said "any gearbox in sump" rather than "any front wheel drive" because the Maestro uses a block more like a Rwd one from a
Marina or Ital.
Sorry for any confusion.
Just thought, did Metros not use metric threads? It doesnt make any real difference but if you dont notice & bugger a thread in a casting with the
wrong bolt it wont help!
The MG Metro engine I put in my Mini had a 3.44-1 diff & I later changed it for a 3.1-1 which suited the 10" wheels far better. Unless you
get an engine out of something like an Allegro which ran bigger wheels I dont think the diff ratio will be far wrong if the car is just gonna be a
runabout.
[Edited on 24/12/06 by hillbillyracer]
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DIY Si
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| posted on 25/12/06 at 01:03 AM |
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Just fit a 1275 A+ engine, as it's probably the easiest to find. You can still use the auto subframe, as it will allow the engine to be put
lower, but this may not be required. Most/many of the bits are easy to source and easy to fit. Just make sure that there's space to fit the gear
lever rods inside the car!
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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