gy351100
|
| posted on 4/10/07 at 08:31 AM |
|
|
Land Rover Series 3 / V8
Hi all
And now for something completely different.
I am considering fitting a Rover V8 to my series 3, which vintage engine would be most suitable.
Cheers
Keith
|
|
|
|
|
robinj66
|
| posted on 4/10/07 at 08:57 AM |
|
|
Depends on what sort of thing you want to do with your LR - Eg, Off Road, Drag, Race etc.
Have a look at this list - note the different compression ratios, esp in the Range Rovers
http://www.v8scimitar.co.uk/technical/rover_v8_engine_numbers.htm
|
|
|
smart51
|
| posted on 4/10/07 at 09:03 AM |
|
|
Land Rover made a V8 defender. I'd use whatever spec engine they did. I'm guesing that a Land Rover V8 out of a disco or range rover
would be more suitable than one out of a P6.
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 4/10/07 at 09:03 AM |
|
|
how big is your wallet?
all of them will fit.
some things to be aware of:
car engine: p5/p6/SD1 have smaller water pump; sits lower down and has shorter nose the the RR ones
beware of the slipped liner issue on the overbored blocks; think that affects engines 4.2 and above, may also be 3.9 not sure.
SU (car) carbs preferable to Stromberg (RR)
beware of exhaust manifolds - some may not fit.
think about upgrading cooling - 4 core series rad may just about cope.
budget for remote filter; the front diff will bash it. (you can fit a smaller filter).
avoid P5/P6 engines, former needs 5 star and both have antiquated oil pump/dizzy for whihc parts are hard to find.
you will need to make some bulkhead mods plus fit panels in the foot wells to access plugs and ex. manifold bolts.
you will have to fit 3.54 RR diffs, early 10 spline - loads available; an overdrive or high ration xfer box. fitting RR g/box needs much more work.
|
|
|
wilkingj
|
| posted on 4/10/07 at 10:03 AM |
|
|
You need a Short nosed water pump.
You need a conversion ring from Milner off road or simmilar.
You Need to uprate the Radiator a S111 is not big enough.
best to move the rad forwards and do a 90/110 flush front end to get more space.
You will need to fit LWB twin leading shoe front brakes, or you wont stop, and the Insurance Co's wont like it if your dont.
Stage 1 V8 brakes would be even better (expensive / scarce though).
Buy a very Large Hammer to adjust the bulkhead to get the engine to "fit".
Any V8 will do.
Avoid a P5 / P6 as the oil pumps are not so good. However , easily modifed with an adaptor / spacer plate and SD1 parts. Gives larger capacity.
You should get simmilar fuel consumption, or slightly better, 18MPG would be Good, if all set up properly.
but you will have 150bhp and not 50 bhp.
Also the lurverly sound track.
Check which sump you will need to clear the front axle / diff casing.
Just my 2d worth.
Just as cheap to buy a V9 90 these days or a V8 110. then GAS it, to make it cheaper to run.
Read up on www.v8engines.com (RPI's site) about how to buy a Rover V8, check the colour in the rocker covers. It will cost you the best part of
£2K to fully refurb a V8, if you buy a Dog.
Guess how I know Get a good one to start with.
Camshafts are scrap after about 80k miles.
look for wear on the rocker shafts on the UNDERSIDE of the shaft. steel on ally gives loads of filings that get in all the bearings.
So make sure you put good ones back in if refurbing or it will all be a waste of money.
Read these pages
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 4/10/07 at 11:16 AM |
|
|
You need a Short nosed water pump.
pretty sure RR pumps have been used
You Need to uprate the Radiator a S111 is not big enough.pretty sure s3 rads are used, you want 4-core hot climate and it has to be in
good condition; it is on the limit if mud plugging
best to move the rad forwards and do a 90/110 flush front end to get more space.
yeah but you loose the series 3 front look; the steering relay gets in the way with a RR rad if put in series position
You will need to fit LWB twin leading shoe front brakes, or you wont stop, and the Insurance Co's wont like it if your dont.
cannot say I notice insureance companies care what brakes are fitted.
Stage 1 V8 brakes would be even better (expensive / scarce though).
tell me about it; I have just done that conversion this year; backplates are £££ and hard to find, rest is not so bad. you'll be
ok with lwb fronts; with LWB put the front brakes onto the rear, not if SWB, fit servo if not already.
Avoid a P5 / P6 as the oil pumps are not so good. However , easily modifed with an adaptor / spacer plate and SD1 parts. Gives larger capacity.
when I looked into this, - Rimmer Bro. - kit was no longer avaialble. easy enough to swap timing cover but you need to change dizzy
drive, easy too.
|
|
|
Humbug
|
| posted on 4/10/07 at 01:45 PM |
|
|
For an alternative approach, how about buying a V8 Range Rover or Discovery with shagged bodywork and put the S3 body on instead? You would probably
have to lengthen/shorten the rear side panels, but would end up with the S3 look and the engine you want without the hassle of having to replumb the
engine, match gearboxes and diffs, etc.
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 4/10/07 at 03:31 PM |
|
|
^^^ that would require SVA if you want the series reg. dueto change in suspension; and lose any tax exemption on the series.
the RR would aslo need SVA due to change in wheel base I believe.
has been done normally by utting/shunting the chassis; may need outriggers to be moved.
[Edited on 4/10/07 by 02GF74]
|
|
|
Humbug
|
| posted on 4/10/07 at 04:23 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
^^^ that would require SVA if you want the series reg. dueto change in suspension; and lose any tax exemption on the series.
the RR would aslo need SVA due to change in wheel base I believe.
has been done normally by utting/shunting the chassis; may need outriggers to be moved.
[Edited on 4/10/07 by 02GF74]
I don't think it would require SVA because you would be retaining the original (RR/Disco) chassis. That's why I said you might need to
change the panels (rather than the chassis). Since the original S3 chassis would still exist, I presume you could do a cherished transfer to the
"new" vehicle
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 4/10/07 at 04:36 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Humbug
I don't think it would require SVA because you would be retaining the original (RR/Disco) chassis. That's why I said you might need to
change the panels (rather than the chassis). Since the original S3 chassis would still exist, I presume you could do a cherished transfer to the
"new" vehicle
changing panels - that'll be fun - series came in 88 and 109 inch flavours, RR is 100.
|
|
|
wilkingj
|
| posted on 4/10/07 at 05:43 PM |
|
|
It shouldnt need a SVA IF you retain the Rangey / Disco registration, as you are retaining more than enough points to keep the reg.
Body change on a Landy shouldnt matter as its the Chassis that has the 5 points, not the bodywork. Also true for triumph heralds / vitesses etc
Its different on a monocoque car like a Ford Fiesta where the body is the "chassis".
Very very few S111's were Tax Exempt. They started about 1971/2/3 ish. S11's are nearly all exempt.
To be Tax Exempt it needs to have rolled off the production line before 31 Dec 1972 to be Tax Exempt. (Thats manufactured, not necessarily
registered)
Probably a lot better to change the body over. OK its a LOT more work, but you get nicer suspension, better 5 speed gearbox, permanant 4WD, and disc
brakes all round, along with power steering.
If you can build a Locost from scratch, then modifying a Landy is childs play
PS.. Insurance Co's expect you to declare ALL modifications, and may require an engineers report as well. They may not care what brakes you fit,
but you can bet that they load the policy acordingly.
Be assured that if you fit say... aftermarket alloy wheels to your daily drive, and dont tell the insurance Co, and they get stolen, they will not pay
out unless you declared them as being fitted.
Increase in power, and no increase on the braking ability, is not reducing the risk factor is it.
I have done 3 well modified landies, including a Series 11 Lightweight onto a Coil chassis (Ok that was nearly criminal), and filling out all the
paperwork for the insurance co was fun.
Remember that with a kit / scratch built car, you have a SVA which covers the braking ability etc etc, and ensures its done to a good standard /
meets the regs etc.
With a Landy modded that way there is no SVA, and no guarantee of performance for any of the systems. Hence they will ask for declarations for ALL of
the modifications.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
|
|
|
