locoboy
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| posted on 29/9/08 at 09:27 AM |
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double glazing question.
Im making a new wooden casement to hold the glass in an opening wooden window (the hinged bit)
The old one had rotted away over the years and its in deed of replacement now.
Im replacing the glass with a double glazed unit and need to know how is best to fix the glass in
Wooden beading?
Putty?
My concerns are that with the double glazed unit being a lot thicker than a single pane you will see from the inside, the back of whatever is holding
the window in place
Cheers
ATB
Locoboy
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 29/9/08 at 09:32 AM |
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most seem to use thin double sided foam tape now, though you get one chance to fit it, then its not coming out, but it is a very neat finish.
as for the beading you can buy wood or white plastic trim from places like B&Q and just use the same tape on the other side of the glass to attach
that
[Edited on 29/9/08 by Mr Whippy]
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zilspeed
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| posted on 29/9/08 at 10:36 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by locoboy
Im making a new wooden casement to hold the glass in an opening wooden window (the hinged bit)
The old one had rotted away over the years and its in deed of replacement now.
Im replacing the glass with a double glazed unit and need to know how is best to fix the glass in
Wooden beading?
Putty?
My concerns are that with the double glazed unit being a lot thicker than a single pane you will see from the inside, the back of whatever is holding
the window in place
Cheers
If you're making a new sash, the rebate for the glazing should be a different size to accomodate the fact that the glazed unit is much thicker
than a pane of glass.
Glazing beads are the correct fitting for this purpose, as foreputty is only really appropriate for sliding sash and case windows.
The unit should definitely be bedded in putty and the glazing beads should have a putty bed on them before fixng in place. Butyl putty is what you are
more likely to use these days than linseed oil.
If you do use linseed oil putty, remember to thoroughly knead the amount you plan on using before actual use. This spreads the oil through the
putty.
One last think, if there is still too much oil in the putty, wrap it in some newspaper first for a bit, then knead it.
Cheers
John F
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smart51
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| posted on 29/9/08 at 11:33 AM |
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I retrofitted double glazed sealed units into old hardwood frames using putty and they were fine, but it was a fairly slow job. Elsewhere I've
used a nice thick bead of silicone and tacked in a wooden bead to hold in the glass. Anything that will give you an airtight seal and a bit of hold
on the glass will be OK so long as you have a bead on the outside.
Double sided closed cell foam tape sounds good too, so long as the wooden frame is clean and smooth, which it probably will be if it is new.
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richardlee237
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| posted on 29/9/08 at 12:23 PM |
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Ah linseed oil.......
Cricket bats, leather balls hot summer days, the school first eleven and a grope in hope round the back of the bike sheds.
Do smells come any more evocative ?
Quote Lord Kelvin
“Large increases in cost with questionable increases in performance can be tolerated only in race horses and women.”
Quote Richard Lee
"and cars"
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JonBowden
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| posted on 29/9/08 at 02:47 PM |
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I had a new wooden window made up a few years ago. The guy who made it advised me to use silicone sealant - this has worked fine so far.
Jon
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Peteff
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| posted on 29/9/08 at 03:51 PM |
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I used exterior grade mastic on mine and they've been in 14 years and not caused a problem. Bed the pane on mastic and then bead the front with
a line of mastic on the back of the beading and use some plastic spacer material to hold the pane up off the bottom frame. You can get glazing mastic
but the ordinary stuff works fine and will hold beading in place without nails to cause rot points.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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locoboy
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| posted on 29/9/08 at 08:53 PM |
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Thanks for all the info guys i will be using some beading and some mastic sealant.
ATB
Locoboy
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