DorsetStrider
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| posted on 5/1/09 at 06:11 PM |
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K-Series question.
Hiya guys.
I've got a friend (no honestly!) who's head lovely 1.4 k-series has done what k-series' do. Head gasket has gone for a burton.
She's not having much luck at the moment and I'm feeling especially sorry for her so I'm trying to advise her of all and her best
options.
How much would you guys pay for this engine/gearbox to use in a kit?
1.4 k-series
approx 100,000 on the clock.
as I said head gasket has gone.
I'm seeing if it's worth her while possibly breaking the car for parts. I'm not actually selling it I just want to know how much
it'd be worth to her so I can give her an accurate idea of her options.
[Edited on 5/1/09 by DorsetStrider]
[Edited on 5/1/09 by DorsetStrider]
Who the f**K tightened this up!
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coozer
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| posted on 5/1/09 at 06:15 PM |
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Head gasket went on mine and it needed a new head. Its the head that gives up then the gasket cannot hold on.
Lots make the mistake of fitting a new gasket then wondering why it blows again straight away.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 5/1/09 at 06:18 PM |
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Well honestly I'd pay absolutely zero for a high mileage rover engine with a blown gasket indeed I’d consider it a curse if one appeared on my
doorstep
my best advice...buy a Nissan
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Humbug
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| posted on 5/1/09 at 06:36 PM |
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I think the engine's worth about £0.00 - sorry. If the car's any good, buy a "new" engine for it.
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motorcycle_mayhem
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| posted on 5/1/09 at 06:41 PM |
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With China paying less for scrap at the moment, the engine won't be worth anything - perhaps a pint of reasonable ale.
I had a Metro 100K 1.4 blow, pretty dramatic - the oil was pumped out the sump through the exhaust (nice). With a fresh MoT gained the day before, I
simply nailed a fresh gasket in there. The dowels were plastic, cracked, so I replaced with some steel tube. It ran for a year, faultlessly. Only
scrapped it the following year because the body rot was horrific. It didn't weigh much, unfortunately.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 5/1/09 at 06:45 PM |
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not worth the man power to strip.
weight the whole lot in for around £35
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 5/1/09 at 06:45 PM |
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Plastic dowels! Oh lovely British at its best…
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StevieB
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| posted on 5/1/09 at 06:46 PM |
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Something happened to my elise in it's previous life (ie, before I owned it) and there's a rceipt for nigh on a grands worth of head
skimming and fettling.
If i's the head that let's go, is there not a reason somebody couldn't snap up the opportunity and fit a supersport head and cams to
get 128bhp from it?
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DorsetStrider
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| posted on 5/1/09 at 06:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by motorcycle_mayhem
With China paying less for scrap at the moment, the engine won't be worth anything - perhaps a pint of reasonable ale.
I had a Metro 100K 1.4 blow, pretty dramatic - the oil was pumped out the sump through the exhaust (nice). With a fresh MoT gained the day before, I
simply nailed a fresh gasket in there. The dowels were plastic, cracked, so I replaced with some steel tube. It ran for a year, faultlessly. Only
scrapped it the following year because the body rot was horrific. It didn't weigh much, unfortunately.
If I lived closer I'd change the gasket for her and check out the head... unfortunately I live in bournemouth and she lives North of Birmingham.
Kinda a long way to go to work in the freezing cold on someones drive.
Who the f**K tightened this up!
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jambojeef
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| posted on 5/1/09 at 07:12 PM |
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Dont wanna buy the 1.8 k series out of my girlfriends MGF then?
I suppose the dorset vs newcastle issue is quite a good one!
Geoff
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westf27
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| posted on 5/1/09 at 07:41 PM |
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if its one of those lovelies send her round here,sod how cold it is.If its the usual gasket job and metal dowels with a minimal skim then worth
doing.Trouble is if it was really cooked up then liners may have shifted and you cant use the metal gasket,need the original.Did a 1.6 recently and
sweet as anut now.What car is it in.
555
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britishtrident
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| posted on 5/1/09 at 07:49 PM |
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A very easy 4 to 5 hour job unless it has been really roasted or the coolant never changed. Hardest bit is putting the inlet manifold back on after
the head is refitted. 5 hour job on a 25 or 45 if the car has Air conditioning it restricts access a bit and the alternator belt tensioner can be
tricky to lock back. 5.5 hour job on a 75 as access isn't as good to the cam belt end.
Contrary to what most idiots who in habit garages these days will tell you K series heads almost never warp --- if you look at one you will see why
it is built like a brick privy. Heads can however corrode badly if the coolant has never beed change but usually can be fixed by a simple skim.
What can happen though if the engine has been truly roasted over a long period is a cylinder liner can drop --- no easy cure for that.
What generally happens to head gasket in k series engines is one of two things both of which are related to loss of coolant -- any loss of coolant in
K series is bad news will quickly result in loss of water circulation the only signs of which are often the heater stops working and pinking can be
heard when accelerating.
(1) Slight external water leak usually either the radiator or the inlet manifold gasket but can also be the thermostat housing or water pump.
(2) The other cause of water loss is related to the head gasket but isn't anything to do with the fire ring seal round the cylinder but is due
to the silicone rubber sealant tracks on the gasket becoming detached from the gasket as a result the coolant from the water passages seeps into the
oil ways and vice versa.
This is caused by the differential expansion between the head and block when and if this occurs is related to the number of cold starts the engine
does and if the engine is allowed to to warm up for a couple of hundered yards before being give full throttle.
Job goes like this line the timiing marks up.
Remove coil packs and plugs
Drain coolant
Seperate inlet and exhaust manifolds from head but leave on car.
Remove the timing belt front cover.
Lock back the alternator belt tensioner.
Remove cam sensor
Remove cam belt
Unbolt the rear part of th can belt cover --- one bolt is tricky to get access too so it usually involes removing drivers side engine mount.
Remove headbolts --- can be reused after checking.
Rock head to free it from block and lift clear.
Clean everything
Check block for droped liners and head corrosion or warping.
Check the head bolts screw down freely enough and far enough down to properly clamp the head -- bolts should not be oiled just washed in kerosene or
WD40 and allowed to drip dry.
Change head dowls for stainless steel type.
Fit new inlet manifold gasket to manifold.
Fit Freelander 1.8 multi layer head gasket -- nb the dealler will try to sell you a modified oil ladder this isn't really required.
Refit head
Initial torqing the head bolts --- needs an accurate low range 3/8"torque wrench.
Angular torque the head bolts -- 2 stages.
Refit the back part of the timiing belt cover
Lock the cams and refit the cam belt.
Line up the cam belt tensioner pointer.
Turn the engine by hand and re-check the liming.
Refit the manifolds and covers --- takes a while.
Refit cam sensor.
Refit alternator drive belt and unlock tensioner.
Fill with coolant and bleed system via bleeder on hose over bellhousing.
Start engine
Bleed and top up cooolant check heater is working
Allow to cool fully and pressure test cooling system when cold -- raddiator, water pump & pipe work corners of inlet manifold.
Change oil
Job done
[Edited on 5/1/09 by britishtrident]
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DorsetStrider
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| posted on 5/1/09 at 08:11 PM |
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Car is a rover 214i 16v "R" reg
Owned by a 55year old woman so never really trashed. Owner doesn't know much about cars and I can't get her on the phone to check but the
story as I understand it at the moment is as follows....
New Years Day car wont after being layed up over christmas. RAC check and say it's a shot battery. New battery put on car.
Today car cuts out on her way to work and wont restart. After trying for 15mins trying to get through to the RAC without any luck she tried restarting
the car and it worked. Drove about 1 and half miles and again car cuts out. No water in rad so fills up. She got the car going again and drives to
work. Get there and again car breaks down, again no water in rad.
RAC called and confirm water leaking from rad and head gasket. (from what she said it sounded like they told her it was leaking outward... from inside
the engine to the outside world).
What do we all think?
Who the f**K tightened this up!
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britishtrident
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| posted on 5/1/09 at 08:29 PM |
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I would be very tempted just to put a container of K-Seal and a litre of blue anftifreeze in it and bleed the air out --- and see what happens. The
raddiator and head gasket will need changed at some point but it should get it running for a few months.
RAC always diagnose any coolaning problem on a K series as the head gasket.
I know of one case where a guy bought a 75 1.8T turbo from a non franchise dealer, 50 miles down the road it grinds to halt in cloud of white smoke
--- RAC man says head gasket dealer fits new engine. Three weeks later guy gets car back and goes on holiday 50 miles down the road new engine
erupts in cloud of white smoke -- different RAC says the heads gasket again and tows itto local ex-Rover francise who also think head gasket contact
selling garage and arrange to do warranty repair, they start to strip engine and discover the seals in the turbo charger are blown !
[Edited on 5/1/09 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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lsdweb
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| posted on 5/1/09 at 10:07 PM |
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If it's a 3 door I may know somebody who'd be interested in buying the whole car.
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