locoboy
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 09:50 AM |
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ground anchor bolt question...
I’m calling on your collective problem solving brains!
I have to install floor/wall anchors to allow me to secure my pushbikes in the garage.
The floor anchors are normally secured with rawl bolts BUT…….
The floor in my garage ( I have just moved to a rented house) is tarmac over hardcore just like a driveway so cant use expanding bolts.
‘Attach it to the brick wall I hear you say’ well the brick wall is only one brick thick and they are those crappy bricks with the 3 holes in them so
I suspect the expanding bolt will either end up in a void in the brick or blow the brick apart because the bits of meat either side of the holes are
so thin in these bricks.
Any suggestions on how best to attach the anchor to the floor or wall?
I can’t go digging up the tarmac and hardcore to pour a concrete slug to bolt into (that’s what I would do if it were my house!)
Cheers
Col
ATB
Locoboy
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mcerd1
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 09:53 AM |
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you could use resin anchors into the bricks - that way you avid any expansion forces on the brick, but they'll still only be as strong as the
bricks they are attached to...
you get mesh insert thingys for hollow blocks and bricks to avoid having to fill up the entire void with resin
see here: http://www.the-cfa.co.uk/media/43012/smsresininjhollowmats.pdf
this website is for the industry body that all the major anchor makers are part of - its got loads of advise on all kinds of anchor systems:
www.the-cfa.co.uk
you could resin in some threaded sleeves - then bolt into them with security bolts (several types available)
[Edited on 14/5/2014 by mcerd1]
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loggyboy
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 10:11 AM |
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Something like this maybe?
http://www.asphaltanchors.com/
Mistral Motorsport
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dhutch
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 10:19 AM |
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How visable is the outside of the garage?
18inch sqaure steel plate, with protected holes, galvanised, through bolts into the wall anchor?
Daniel
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locoboy
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 10:29 AM |
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Daniel,
It would be in the neighbours garden :-)
Good info folks I will investigate them.
Ta.
ATB
Locoboy
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HowardB
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 10:43 AM |
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or
anchor from B&Q
hth
Howard
Fisher Fury was 2000 Zetec - now a 1600 (it Lives again  and goes zoom)
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Charlie_Zetec
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 10:49 AM |
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Buy an eyelet with a long shank on the back, drill a nice hole in the floor and chemfix it in. Bingo.
Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity!
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mcerd1
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 11:10 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Charlie_Zetec
Buy an eyelet with a long shank on the back, drill a nice hole in the floor and chemfix it in. Bingo.
but whats the resin going to grip / stick to if its only a think layer of tarmac ?
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locoboy
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 11:52 AM |
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Its tarmac onto hardcore I think..........
ATB
Locoboy
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mcerd1
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 11:54 AM |
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^^ it would still need to be more solid than that for the chemical anchors to grip
thats why I suggested using suitable chemical anchors in the brick
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Charlie_Zetec
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 11:56 AM |
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It'll bond to whatever it touches! Drilling a hole in the floor to chemfix an eyelet in seems the most logical approach in this situation as I
doubt the brickwork (from what's been described) would handle any sort of secure fixing.
Lets look at this from a logical point of view - if someone wants to steal the bike, they'll take it no matter what. This is just supposed to
be a deterrant, or something to slow them down in their thievery efforts. Last time I tried pulling a chemfixed anchor out, it wasn't very
successful!
Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity!
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locoboy
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 12:20 PM |
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An eyelet, you mean a loop with a long threaded shank?
Drop the eye end in the hole? leaving the stud sticking out to attach the flat plate of the ground anchor onto and use a nut to secure (then weld nut
on)?
ATB
Locoboy
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loggyboy
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 12:41 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by locoboy
An eyelet, you mean a loop with a long threaded shank?
Drop the eye end in the hole? leaving the stud sticking out to attach the flat plate of the ground anchor onto and use a nut to secure (then weld nut
on)?
No I suspect he means let the resin bond to the thread and use the eyelet to secure the bikes to.
Resin bonding is incedibly strong, once youve drilled a hole down throught the tarmac, a good few inches the reisn will bond it self to everything
around it. the only way it would come out is with LOTS of force. (ie a jcb pulling on it)
Mistral Motorsport
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Charlie_Zetec
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 12:44 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
quote:
Originally posted by locoboy
An eyelet, you mean a loop with a long threaded shank?
Drop the eye end in the hole? leaving the stud sticking out to attach the flat plate of the ground anchor onto and use a nut to secure (then weld nut
on)?
No I suspect he means let the resin bond to the thread and use the eyelet to secure the bikes to.
Resin bonding is incedibly strong, once youve drilled a hole down throught the tarmac, a good few inches the reisn will bond it self to everything
around it. the only way it would come out is with LOTS of force. (ie a jcb pulling on it)
Yup, that's the one!
Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity!
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mcerd1
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 12:59 PM |
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the ones I've just finished specifying at work should hold 11 tonnes per bolt with ease 
(Hilti HY200 resin with M20 bolts 380mm into solid 30N/mm˛ concrete)
so maybe my standards are too high - but I personally wouldn't be happy unless the resin had a grip of a more solid material like concrete or
brick....
but there is an easy way to find out - resin a bolt in and see how hard you need to pull to get it back out
(or at least pull it to 1.25 x the design load it needs to hold and make sure its not moved at that)
you really should test a percentage of any critical resin anchors anyway as they are so prone to failure from either bad installation or poor concrete
strength...
[Edited on 14/5/2014 by mcerd1]
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locoboy
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 01:04 PM |
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Ok, I'm going to try in the floor first with resin then.
So drill the hole, fill with resin and poke a bit of allthread bar into the hole.
I'd maybe thread a nut on the all thread that will sit flush with the ground then the anchor plate and then a nut on top welded on. That way
when I tighten the nut on the top, it wont be trying to pull the stud upwards and out the ground, it'll just be pressing on the nut below the
plate effectively sandwiching the anchor plate.
Sound feasible?
If so is allthread suitable ??
Col
ATB
Locoboy
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mcerd1
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 01:20 PM |
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almost all anchor systems are based on using threaded rod - so it'll be fine
(only really the fancy hilti anchors that use anything else)
cut the threaded rod at an angle so you end up with one pointy end
and stick this pointy end down the hole - this helps stop it unscrewing from the resin (which is unlikely, but can happen)
or you can use these type of anchors:
https://www.hilti.co.uk/anchor-systems/anchor-rods-and-elements/r6283
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