smart51
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| posted on 13/10/18 at 02:10 PM |
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pluming help
Minor disaster. I've taken off a piece of skirting in the bathroom to find that the builders had nailed it on through a central heating pipe.
Water was pouring through the lights into the kitchen below. I've turned of the lighting circuit and drained the heating and I've
soldered up the hole in the pipe. Is this likely to hold, or should I get someone in to cut out the pipe and fit new?
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perksy
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| posted on 13/10/18 at 02:21 PM |
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Copper microbore or 15mm? Or plastic pipe?
*If* its copper I'd cut a small section out and either solder in a straight coupler or if you've the room and don't fancy soldering
use a mechanical straight coupler
[Edited on 13/10/18 by perksy]
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smart51
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| posted on 13/10/18 at 02:32 PM |
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15mm copper. The pipe is right next to a stud in the wall. The piece would have to be hacksawn out. No chance of getting a pipe cutter in. Will
be tricky to solder as there's no access to the back or side. I'd have to yet a yorkshire (?) fitting, heat the hell out of it and hope
the solder flows all the way round.
I might be able to persuade a compression fitting in but not without ripping a big hole in the plasterboard to get the spanners on it. Hidden pipes
are lovely until some knobhead nails through it.
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jossey
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| posted on 13/10/18 at 03:10 PM |
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If there is room in the cavity then I would replace with a push on flexo hose.
I small ish hole in plaster should allow you to replace the damaged area.
If it's close to the rad it flows to I would replace the damaged pipe with a new section to behind the rad where i can rejoin to main system and
not have the added stress of cutting plaster out.
Thanks
David Johnson
Building my tiger avon slowly but surely.
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mark chandler
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| posted on 13/10/18 at 03:29 PM |
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Cut a small section out of another bit of 15mm pipe, 1/2" long and cut in half longways then solder this over the top of the hole as a patch.
Absolutely no need to cut out the hole and introduce a straight join or similar, this will carry more risk of leaking once you start yanking and
disturbing everything.
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smart51
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| posted on 13/10/18 at 03:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
Cut a small section out of another bit of 15mm pipe, 1/2" long and cut in half longways then solder this over the top of the hole as a patch.
Absolutely no need to cut out the hole and introduce a straight join or similar, this will carry more risk of leaking once you start yanking and
disturbing everything.
This sounds like a plan.
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 13/10/18 at 04:21 PM |
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self amalgamating tape
https://www.screwfix.com/p/self-amalgamating-rubber-tape-black-25mm-x-3m/2115v
or
solder on patch
https://www.screwfix.com/p/flowflex-copper-click-fix-pipe-repair-patch-15mm/5962v
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smart51
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| posted on 13/10/18 at 05:09 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
self amalgamating tape
https://www.screwfix.com/p/self-amalgamating-rubber-tape-black-25mm-x-3m/2115v
or
solder on patch
https://www.screwfix.com/p/flowflex-copper-click-fix-pipe-repair-patch-15mm/5962v
Perfect, thanks. I'll go to screwfix tomorow. Job done.
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big-vee-twin
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| posted on 13/10/18 at 07:22 PM |
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Cut it out and replace pipe using push fit fittings, don't bodge it with tape.
[Edited on 13/10/18 by big-vee-twin]
Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016
http://www.triangleltd.com
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JeffHs
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| posted on 14/10/18 at 09:49 AM |
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Consider using a multitool to cut the pipe. I had to replace an old 1 inch pipe in the airing cupboard when I changed the hot water cylinder. The old
isolation valve would not close. It was tight against a brick wall so impossible to hacksaw, but the multitool did a great job of making a dead square
cut so I could fit a modern valve.
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joneh
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| posted on 14/10/18 at 10:59 AM |
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Late to the party but JG do a pipe repaired push fit section. Makes it a doddle.
screwfix
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