richard thomas
|
| posted on 22/1/09 at 10:20 PM |
|
|
O/T - Floorboards
Quick question....any house builders out there?
Just pulling up the floor in my kitchen, boards in a bit of a state. Looking to stone tile the floor when kitchen is finished.
Any reason why I shouldn't be able to pull up the all of the old boards, and use Plywood sheets instead of new floorboards? The original joists
are ok, and sit about 12" above the concrete base.
I bet there is a really obvious reason why I can't...but cannot think of it. I know that chipboard sheets are sometimes used upstairs in new
build houses?
Cheers, Rich.
|
|
|
|
|
NigeEss
|
| posted on 22/1/09 at 10:29 PM |
|
|
No reason at all. Only reason chipboard is used is it's cheap.
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.................Douglas Adams.
|
|
|
mediabloke
|
| posted on 22/1/09 at 10:46 PM |
|
|
Can't say I've replaced a kitchen floor, so I can't consider myself an expert - ours was solid to start with. Like NigeEss,
I'm assuming you were considering chipboard - ply that thick would be expensive.
I'd be reluctant to fit chipboard in my own kitchen though. Sure, it'll be covered, but it's going to swell if any water gets past
the covering.
Just my uneducated £0.02's worth.
Francis
|
|
|
austin man
|
| posted on 22/1/09 at 10:48 PM |
|
|
chip bord is the better of the two as it is tongue and grooved therefore any movement will be uniform plywood may warp causinf only 1 board to lift =
cracked tiles ??
If using chipboard make sure it is well sealed to prevent water getting at it and allowing it to swell
|
|
|
richard thomas
|
| posted on 22/1/09 at 10:52 PM |
|
|
No, certainly not going to use chipboard, I was using it as an example of flooring other than traditional boards.
Was just thinking that there must be a quicker way of laying flooring straight on to the joists than traditional boards? Sheets of ply would be much
simpler and quicker? Would be thinking of 18mm thick or similar, and ply has reasonable water resistance if treated first.
Maybe traditional floorboards are just cheaper? Or is it that it's easier to pull a couple of boards as opposed to a ply sheet if there's
a problem with plumbing or someting similar? Either way I'd end up wrecking the stone tiles....
|
|
|
Chippy
|
| posted on 22/1/09 at 11:42 PM |
|
|
There is absolutely no reason why you cant use ply. The only thing that I would say is that you cut it so that at any future date, should you need to
get to underfloor services, it's possable to just take up that section. The ideal would be to have your access panels under the kitchen units,
so that the problem of having to smash tiles doesn't come into it. Hope that is of some assistance. Cheers Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
|
|
|
NigeEss
|
| posted on 23/1/09 at 12:20 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by austin man
chip bord is the better of the two as it is tongue and grooved therefore any movement will be uniform plywood may warp causinf only 1 board to lift =
cracked tiles ??
18mm exterior grade ply is the stuff to use if you are tiling. Sufficiently water resistant and
very rigid when screwed to joists.
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.................Douglas Adams.
|
|
|
JoelP
|
| posted on 23/1/09 at 08:00 AM |
|
|
but how bloody expensive! Why not use chipboard? You can get moisture resistant ones that are designed for the job. If its good enough for EVERY new
build out there, im sure its good enough for you.
|
|
|
tomblyth
|
| posted on 23/1/09 at 08:33 AM |
|
|
I wouldn’t use wpb ply as it warp's/delaminates over time! I use flooring grade chipboard V313 or similar, my proffered product is Weyroc
Protect!
link
Whichever you choose check the BBA cert for suitability
link
last piece of advice , clean out your air bricks and treat your timber joists when you have the floor up! you should have no more problem fom then
on!
[Edited on 23/1/09 by tomblyth]
|
|
|
richwill
|
| posted on 23/1/09 at 09:08 AM |
|
|
Use a plywood with a minimum thickness of 15mm and screw to the joists every 300mm.
Lay the tiles using a flexible adhesive specifically for use on wooden floors.
The screws ensure minimal movement of the plywood and the adhesive will flex to compensate for walking on the tiles.
This is what we do on our retail shopfitting contracts and is a recommended practice.
Ask for more help from a trade supplier.
You dont want to go to the expense and then find you have a problem later.
|
|
|
owelly
|
| posted on 23/1/09 at 09:59 AM |
|
|
I have just fitted a new floor to my annex. Nice thick chipboard flooring boards with the extra water resistant stuff for the bathroom area. Just in
case!
A fraction of the price of an equal thickness of ply or 'proper' wooden floorboards, very quick to cover a large area and easy to fix with
a nail gun!
I used plenty of wood glue in the joints to make it very snug!
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
|
|
|
NigeEss
|
| posted on 23/1/09 at 11:03 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by owelly
easy to fix with a nail gun!
I used plenty of wood glue in the joints to make it very snug!
Gather there's nowt under that may ever need maintenance !
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.................Douglas Adams.
|
|
|
zilspeed
|
| posted on 23/1/09 at 11:12 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by NigeEss
quote:
Originally posted by owelly
easy to fix with a nail gun!
I used plenty of wood glue in the joints to make it very snug!
Gather there's nowt under that may ever need maintenance !
Even if you don't glue it, lifting chipboard flooring always involves setting your
Ripsnorter to the depth of the flooring and cutting a new
hatch wherever required. Once it's lifted, its simplicity to frame it up and fix the new hatch back down.
I wouldn't try and lift chipboard flooring any other way and don't know any other joiners who would.
|
|
|
coozer
|
| posted on 23/1/09 at 11:19 AM |
|
|
Heres another (green) slant on it....
I'm not a fan of wooden floors (bouncy bouncy, squeak squeak) and these days (oh how I yearn for my youth...) there is a better
alternative.....
Sub base 12" below?? Ok, my suggestion is to strenghten the subbase with 4" concrete. Lay 4" of underfloor insulation, Kingspan,
celetex etc then run under floor heating pipes on that and cover with 2" of screed.
That leaves you with a solid base for ceramic tiles and a nice big invisible radiator to heat the room.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
|
|
|
JoelP
|
| posted on 23/1/09 at 11:37 AM |
|
|
i would agree that a solid base and floating floor with UFH is the best overall by a BIG margin. However i would suggest that it isnt necessarily a
DIY job to make sure you have a proper damp course under it all!
[Edited on 23/1/09 by JoelP]
|
|
|
DarrenW
|
| posted on 23/1/09 at 11:38 AM |
|
|
Thgere could be a reason why the concrete base is 12" below. If its an old house this area should be ventilated to prevent timber work rotting.
Any more info on construction of house.
How bad are the old floor boards. If the joists are solid then its a fair assumption that the floor boards may just be aesthetically bad. Can you not
leave existing boards in place and cover with new top before tiling?
|
|
|
richard thomas
|
| posted on 23/1/09 at 01:33 PM |
|
|
Update....
Looks like the cold water pipe under the floor wasn't lagged for a good length, and has been sweating. I reckon it's been sweating for
years and has just gotten worse - previous kitchen fitted in 1990. There is very poor ventilation under there at the moment, and the walls have been
cavity insulated which hasn't helped.
Anyway, have had to cut out a couple of sections of 2x4" joists due to wet rot near where the pipe was dripping, and need to put new flooring
down in that area. I reckon that I might just replace with traditional boards to keep expense down.....the rest of the floor is fine(about 80%)
The sub floor is already concrete, so I could go with the alternatives above....would cost a bit more though, I reckon?
[Edited on 23/1/09 by richard thomas]
|
|
|
.jpg)
