MK9R
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| posted on 10/2/09 at 12:23 PM |
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the black art of central heating
I have problems with my central heating, some of the rads are stone cold after replacing some rads and bleeding the system, although the rads that are
cold have always only ever got luke warm.
This is the "design" of the system, which in my limited knowledge is total crap! I am thinking of adding apump as shown to try and
increase the flow in the 15mm section. Anyone get any other thoughts/suggestions??
BTW, i bought the house with this crap setup, nothing to do with me!!!
Cheers Austen
RGB car number 9
www.austengreenway.co.uk
www.automatedtechnologygroup.co.uk
www.trackace.co.uk
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splitrivet
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| posted on 10/2/09 at 12:35 PM |
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Looks like it probably wants balancing, there is a pump other than the one you intend adding I take it.
Just partiallly close the rads (using the capped valve opposite the shut off valve) which are getting hot which Im guessing are upstairs to increase
the flow in the others.
Cheers,
Bob
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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tegwin
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| posted on 10/2/09 at 12:36 PM |
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I would be tempted to put a flow reducing valve on the flow after the T off to the 15mm pipe in an effort to force more water around the smaller bore
pipe.. (A full bore gate valve and some fiddling would do)
The water will naturally flow around the pipe will less resistance...
Looks like someone has made a hash up of connecting the old 22mm system to the new 15mm system... fools!
Edit to say..
Is it a gravity fed system or a pressureised one?..... It is possible that you are getting a vacum on the return to the boiler on the 22mm pipe where
it passes the 15mm..
[Edited on 10/2/09 by tegwin]
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Would the last person who leaves the country please switch off the lights and close the door!
www.verticalhorizonsmedia.tv
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MK9R
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| posted on 10/2/09 at 12:43 PM |
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its pumped from the boiler (oil burner) which is in the cellar, so the pump has to work bloody hard to get it up 2 levels and around the 10 rads.
We had a guy out yesterday who said it needed a bigger pump and a flush, but wants over £400 to do it, i'd rather sort it out myself.
Forgot to mention, i have a spare pump, so adding a pump is a free fix (if its fixes it)
Cheers Austen
RGB car number 9
www.austengreenway.co.uk
www.automatedtechnologygroup.co.uk
www.trackace.co.uk
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Danozeman
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| posted on 10/2/09 at 12:44 PM |
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MIne is similar too that and shite too. i have to put my thermostat up to get the down stairs rads warm.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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splitrivet
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| posted on 10/2/09 at 12:52 PM |
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Flushing it yourself is easy, same layout as mine and thats ok. Have a go at balancing but it takes time dont expect a result straight away. Half
close the hot Rads and fully open the others give it an hour then take it from there. Is the pump on full whack.
Cheers,
Bob
[Edited on 10/2/09 by splitrivet]
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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SteveWalker
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| posted on 10/2/09 at 12:54 PM |
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It looks from your diagram that it's a single pipe system. Is it really, with only 15mm pipe?
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MK9R
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| posted on 10/2/09 at 12:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by splitrivet
Flushing it yourself is easy, same layout as mine and thats ok. Have a go at balancing but it takes time dont expect a result straight away. Half
close the hot Rads and fully open the others give it an hour then take it from there. Is the pump on full whack.
Cheers,
Bob
[Edited on 10/2/09 by splitrivet]
But won't just closing the rad valves make the water circulate round the 22mm pipe, rather than forcing it up the 15mm circuit?
What it really needs is the stop valves the other side of the 15mm join so i can restrict the flow of the 22mm circuit.
Cheers Austen
RGB car number 9
www.austengreenway.co.uk
www.automatedtechnologygroup.co.uk
www.trackace.co.uk
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MK9R
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| posted on 10/2/09 at 12:59 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by SteveWalker
It looks from your diagram that it's a single pipe system. Is it really, with only 15mm pipe?
the one section (lhs) is only 15mm, load of shit!!!
Cheers Austen
RGB car number 9
www.austengreenway.co.uk
www.automatedtechnologygroup.co.uk
www.trackace.co.uk
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splitrivet
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| posted on 10/2/09 at 01:03 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MK9R
quote:
Originally posted by splitrivet
Flushing it yourself is easy, same layout as mine and thats ok. Have a go at balancing but it takes time dont expect a result straight away. Half
close the hot Rads and fully open the others give it an hour then take it from there. Is the pump on full whack.
Cheers,
Bob
[Edited on 10/2/09 by splitrivet]
But won't just closing the rad valves make the water circulate round the 22mm pipe, rather than forcing it up the 15mm circuit?
What it really needs is the stop valves the other side of the 15mm join so i can restrict the flow of the 22mm circuit.
It doesnt work like that, all systems need balancing give it a go you'll be surprised.
Cheers,
Bob
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 10/2/09 at 01:24 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MK9R
quote:
Originally posted by SteveWalker
It looks from your diagram that it's a single pipe system. Is it really, with only 15mm pipe?
the one section (lhs) is only 15mm, load of shit!!!
Doesn’t matter tbh, in my last house it was 10mm microbore to the radiators fed from a 15mm supply ring, your problem is that you have a discrepancy
between the two circuits. To sort it all you have to do is fit a 15mm restriction in to the 22mm circuit just after the 15mm circuit braches off, that
will restore the balance and all the radiators will be supplied at the same flow rate.
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StevenB
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| posted on 10/2/09 at 01:42 PM |
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If you close off all the 22mm rads I take it
the 15mm ones heat up OK?
Normally to balance the system I work out
which are the most remote rads and work back.
ie the upstairs rooms at the front
assuming boiler at back of house.
Full open - front top
2/3 open - rear top and front ground
1/3 - rear ground.
If you have a branch off the main line
to heat the hot water cylinder the
valve on this line should be balanced in
the same way.
You havent stated any distances involved
but I would say you will end up treating the 15mm section as a more remote area
in itself and only the 22mm section will have rads 1/3 open or less.
The Rad in my kitchen is open by a 90 degree turn of the tap and it still reaches
full temp.
Hope this helps.
S.
*
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Peteff
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| posted on 10/2/09 at 04:28 PM |
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The pump should be on the return to the boiler pulling the cooler water not on the flow side pushing the hotter water.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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russbost
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| posted on 10/2/09 at 05:38 PM |
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I had almost the exact same problem due to installation of my heating system by an idiot!
With mine the upstairs & downstairs circuits were both in 22mm but the pipes joining upstairs to downstairs were only 15mm, upstairs (where the
pump is) got hot really quick, downstairs never got more than warm & took ages to get warm at all.
All they did was to replace the 15mm with 22mm & system worked perfectly.
Unfortunately with yours you need to replace the 15mm "ring" with a 22mm ring just keeping the spurs off to the rads at 15mm - I would bet
£1 to a penny that this will cure the fault - I would also suggest a good flush out at the same time as systems always gradually silt up.
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