Jasper
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 11:00 AM |
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How to build a garage???
So the car will be load legal very soon and I want to rebuild my garage - it's an old damp concrete pre-fab one.
I can get the help of a bricky if I need it, but hoping to do most of the work myself. I've got a large concrete base already there.
So, what should I build it from? What's cheapest and easiest to put up? I would like it as dry and insulated as I can without spending too
much.
I thought of doing it in those lightweight grey blocks, is this ok to do? Will it need to be rendered to make it more water tight? And what about the
roof? What's cheap but will give insulaltion? It will also need a side door and windows which I was hoping to pick up cheap secondhand, though I
will buy a new swing up door for it.
And to top it all (as it can be at least 20 feet longer than a standard garage and three feet wider) my wife was hoping to have the end (which is
south facing) as a greenhouse type structure.
Your thoughts please gentlemen 
If you're not living life on the edge you're taking up too much room.
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mark chandler
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 11:08 AM |
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Lightweight grey blocks are great, easy to use, fast to build so no need for a bricky, just make sure the mortar is weaker than the blocks themselves
or the joints crack, 6:1 mix. alternatively buy the glue, then its lego building.
These blocks can take a fully tiled roof so no issues with strength. A decent plasterer will render in a day, maybe £100 a wall.
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r1_pete
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 11:12 AM |
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My garage is rendered and pebledashed breeze block with a brick front to match the house, Its 14feet by 35 feet. It has a pitched tiled roof, which
turned out to be about £200 more than a flat roof, and needs no maintenance other than occasional ridge and eve pointing.
Its been up 13 years with no problems, footings were 2 feet deep, but half of one side is built on the original base, I built it round the outside of
an existing concrete sectional garage, then demolished that inside.
I think it cost me about 2 - 3 grand, but that was in 1996, my only real reccomendation would be to build a pitch roof, rather than flat.
You could build yours a bit shorter than your max and build a conservatory type lean too at the back for the greenhouse, and the back few inches of
your garage as a potting shed.
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Worzey
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 posted on 1/5/09 at 11:26 AM |
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Is it possible to build a garage for £250 if you do most of the work yourself and get a good cheap donor garage 
(Sorry - In a bank holiday mood)
Caterham R400
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l0rd
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 11:27 AM |
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This might not be helpfull for you but
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Thermalite-High-Strength-7-Lightweight-Concrete-Blocks_W0QQitemZ300311002832QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item30031
1002832&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1688%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50
Somebody will get a bargain
[Edited on 1/5/09 by l0rd]
[Edited on 1/5/09 by l0rd]
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deezee
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 11:44 AM |
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Hey Jasper. I did the exact same thing when I bought my 1st house 3 years ago. An old concrete panelled, asbestos roof prefab garage. Council took
asbestos for free, and I knocked it down. I got a bricklayer from work (I work in construction) to help sort out the bonding, and setting it
square.
I put in 2 course of scotch commons, followed by damp proof membrane. Then I built the rest out of hollow concrete blocks (Don't use internal
lightweight blocks). I got a door frame and door, all the blocks etc from Travis Perkins. I then made a flat roof with a 2" slope, and felted
it. I made the windows from timber frames and old glass from a glazers (free).
I saved a fortune on the garage door, by making my own from plywood, to create 2 barn, style, doors. This was not only super cheap, but much more
secure and its creates a much wider opening than a garage door. Plus I can hang timber / ladders / metal etc off the ceiling, cos the garage door
doesn't swing in.
In total my garage was out together for around £350. I did all the construction my self. I borrowed a bell mixer from work to save cash as well.
EDIT: Forgot to mention. Rendering isn't required to make it water right. I used a couple of coats of a good masonry paint. You
will find though, unless its heated, condensation forms inside. Just make sure all timber used is treated / painted.
[Edited on 1/5/09 by deezee]
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Jasper
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 11:59 AM |
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That's useful, cheers chaps....
If you're not living life on the edge you're taking up too much room.
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Guinness
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 12:05 PM |
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Jasper
Have a look at this thread.
http://locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=111213
Specifically the link to JB's diary / how to:-
http://www.beardmorebros.co.uk/website%20pages/how%20to/build_garage.htm
HTH
Mike
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MikeR
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 12:14 PM |
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tip - if your garage is drafty its dry!
all the drafty air takes away the moisture - or at least it did in my garage.
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Jasper
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 01:45 PM |
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Ahh - that build diary is really helpful....
Draft is ok, soaking wet isn't!
If you're not living life on the edge you're taking up too much room.
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tomprescott
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 07:37 PM |
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I definitely agree with going for a pitched roof over a flat, when I was working in maintenance there was a row of 6 garages, 5 flat, 1 pitched. Guess
which was the only one that didn't have mouldy beams?
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iank
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 08:44 PM |
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Make sure you check with the local planning department especially if changing the style of the garage from flat to pitched roof. May or may not need
permission, but get their decision in writing if they say it's ok.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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