David Jenkins
|
| posted on 6/6/11 at 05:29 PM |
|
|
Sealing silicone sealant tubes
I've got a 310ml tube of high-temp silicone sealant to use on my wood-burner flue (and before anyone says anything - it is the right stuff).
It's one of those standard tubes that you use in an applicator - cut off the seal, screw on the nozzle and squeeze the trigger.
The trouble is - I'm only going to use it to seal 1 joint, so about one-sixth of the tube, and I'd hate to waste the remainder.
There's always a possibility that I might need some more when autumn arrives and the stove's in use again...
So - does anyone have a reasonably sure method of re-sealing the end of the tube so that it won't end up all dry and rubbery when I need it
again?
|
|
|
|
|
stevegough
|
| posted on 6/6/11 at 05:45 PM |
|
|
If you let it cure in the nozzle, when you come to use it again, screw in a 2 / 3 inch woodscrew a fair way, clamp the screwhead in the vice, pump up
the pressure, and use the pressure to help you pull the cured 'plug out. You could also wrap clingfilm around the tip in the first place.
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
|
|
|
David Jenkins
|
| posted on 6/6/11 at 05:58 PM |
|
|
So far I've tried:
* clingfilm on the tip
* aluminium foil on the tip
* a tight-fitting bung in the tip
None have been hugely successful... 
|
|
|
iank
|
| posted on 6/6/11 at 06:01 PM |
|
|
I normally squirt some on a woodscrew and then screw that into the tip.
Works most of the time, but it depends on the sealant, some just seem to go off no matter what.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
|
|
|
JoelP
|
| posted on 6/6/11 at 06:02 PM |
|
|
i just put a large screw into the end, then it doesnt matter if it dries because you can unscrew it to create a passage for it to come out through.
|
|
|
stevegough
|
| posted on 6/6/11 at 06:07 PM |
|
|
Of course, it does depend partly on the contents, but I have nearly always found with most silicones that pulling the plug technique I described
earlier works well, David.
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
|
|
|
jacko
|
| posted on 6/6/11 at 07:38 PM |
|
|
WE use rubber gloves and tape
Push the tip into one of the fingers then type it on
|
|
|
Benzine
|
| posted on 6/6/11 at 07:48 PM |
|
|
I use a sandwich bag over the end, tape the bag round the base of the nozzle and squeeze in about a golf ball size amount of sealant
|
|
|
Chippy
|
| posted on 6/6/11 at 09:40 PM |
|
|
I have found that removing the tip putting a piece of cling film over the end of the tube and then screwing the tip back on works most of the time.
Stuff in the tip will still go off, but can be poked out with a thin screwdriver. HTH Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
|
|
|
David Jenkins
|
| posted on 7/6/11 at 09:08 AM |
|
|
I might have a go at one of the suggestions from Benzine and Chippy - with 'plug-removal' as suggested by Steve as backup!
Cheers to all.. 
|
|
|
