Chippy
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| posted on 6/7/11 at 03:14 PM |
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Question for a diesel Technician
Hi, I have a couple of Ford 1.8 Turbo diesel engines in my boat fitted with the CAV Rotodiesel pumps, one runs fine, but the other is giving me
problems. It starts after using the heat start, runs for about thirty second and then stops, turn the key and it will restart, run for the same sort
of time and then stop, and will keep doing this indefinately. I have bled out the system, but feel that if it was air in the system then it would just
refuse to start untill it was cleared. The engines are run as "normal" turbo's, by this I mean that the ecu etc has not been used,
so not a fault in that department. I am getting to the state of pulling my hair out, (if I had any). Just to add these are a new install, (second hand
engines), and have stood for around eighteen months without being started. Any assistance would be most wellcome. Regards Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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mcerd1
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| posted on 6/7/11 at 03:40 PM |
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have they got the fuel filter with the little hand pump on the top ?
if so the diaphragm in the hand pump can split and let air in, but you might not even be able to see the split
this is really common - happened about 6 times on my dads various cars with this engine (some turbo's, some NA)
in the end we reconned you were better not using that pump to blead it as the risk of it splitting was too high 
[Edited on 6/7/2011 by mcerd1]
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Chippy
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| posted on 6/7/11 at 04:03 PM |
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Worth a check, but both the filter/pumps are brand new so unlikely, although even new gear can be faulty. Cheers Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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Litemoth
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| posted on 6/7/11 at 04:28 PM |
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Sounds like its starving of fuel. Stop solenoid?
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mcerd1
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| posted on 6/7/11 at 04:54 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Chippy
Worth a check, but both the filter/pumps are brand new so unlikely
including the filter housing with the pump on it ?
its a specific type of housing that they used on the old 1.8d's for years - but not every model used them (I'll try and find a pic
later)
if yours is one of the newer ones it might not have the same one...
[Edited on 6/7/2011 by mcerd1]
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PSpirine
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| posted on 6/7/11 at 05:05 PM |
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If you've got a priming bulb/button, try to keep pressing that manually once the engine is running. If it keeps running whilst you're
doing that, you've got an air leak.
Other thing you might have is a vacuum lock. Is your fuel tank vented properly? It sounds like it sucks a bit of fuel, but once you create enough of a
vacuum in the fuel tank it can no longer draw in enough fuel to keep it running. Had a very similar problem once on a fuel tank that had a blocked
vent tube.
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mad4x4
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| posted on 6/7/11 at 05:16 PM |
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Try putting a clear bit of pipe in-line, sounds like air in the fuel or fuel starvation
Or it is low compression on the engine....
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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britishtrident
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| posted on 6/7/11 at 05:58 PM |
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A get you home repair I have seen done is a dab of epoxy on the offending component.
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hillbillyracer
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| posted on 6/7/11 at 07:16 PM |
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I'm not sure it is an air leak (but by no means ruling it out!) if it always re-starts ok & then cuts out again.
An air leak would be more like starts ok but stops after a few seconds & then is difficult to start but once it does it runs fine.
Is the fuel supply definatley not restricted at all?
How about connecting a 12v feed to the stop solenoid if it's a basic old single wire one or if it's a coded solenoid remove the plunger
& spring from inside it to eliminate anything else shutting the engine down? This would mean you could'nt stop it on the key though, no
problem in a car as you'd stall it in top gear, could such a thing be done in the boat or would you have to stop it by disconnecting the fuel or
choking the air off? Neither is a particularly good option really!
How has the fuel system been routed & how much of the car's system has been used? As said the prima pump type filter heads on a lot of Ford
diesels did give bother drawing air, the quick release connectors were as bad & the little fuel heater unit could let air in too, I've
by-passed the fuel heater & replaced the Q/R connectors & plastic engine bay pipes on a few with rubber hose & jubilee clips.
Where is the fuel tank? If it's above the injection pump level then that would pretty much rule out an air leak as you'd get a fuel leak
there when the engine was'nt running & you'd find it easy enough.
It could be possible that the input shaft seal in the end of the injection pump has perished/cracked & it's letting air in that way, but
though I've heard of it I've never seen that & I'm not sure just what symptoms that would give.
Could it be possible the feed & return pipes have been mixed up?
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Chippy
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| posted on 6/7/11 at 09:38 PM |
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Hi Guys, well that has certainly given me quite a few things to check, will have a go at it tomorrow and see if any of the above will sort it. Will
report back on how I get on. Thanks Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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Chippy
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| posted on 7/7/11 at 10:02 PM |
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Progress report. Well after a very frustrating day removeing each part, checking and refitting, nothing had come to light, all appeared to be in good
working order. Then came the ureka moment, I removed the tank lid and checked out the pickup pipe, blew through it and out came a nice curly piece of
plastic, (plastic tanks), this had not been cleaned out when whoever drilled the tank, (not me), started the engine and it ran just fine, so problem
solved. Thanks for all the imput. Cheers Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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