Barkalarr
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| posted on 5/2/13 at 12:59 PM |
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OT : Ceiling speaker installation
Here's one for the collective.
I want to install some speakers in the ceiling in our kitchen.
The house is about 8 years old and the bedroom above the kitchen has large sheets of T & G chipboard on the floor.
If I can't do it from below, going to need to take up the floor boards.
1. What's the cleanest way to cut through the T & G boards in the bedroom?
2. Does anyone know how the pro's do it? Surely they don't take up the floor in the bedroom above?
These are retro fit - I don't want to take the ceiling down in the kitchen.
I can make holes in the walls for the cables as the new kitchen is being fitted first week of march.
I've already got the speakers - delivered yesterday.
Didn't want to go sonos
I vaguely remember a conversation with a sparks many years ago who said there was a tool for this very job where you could cut a work hole in the
floor boards and fill the hole with a plastic bung - I've tried searching but can seem to find anything?
Any ideas?
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tegwin
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| posted on 5/2/13 at 01:04 PM |
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Why not just hide the speakers on top of the kitchen cabinets? Personally find ceiling mounted speakers ultra tacky..."Footballers
mansion" stylie
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Would the last person who leaves the country please switch off the lights and close the door!
www.verticalhorizonsmedia.tv
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Benzine
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| posted on 5/2/13 at 01:11 PM |
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bi22le
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| posted on 5/2/13 at 01:19 PM |
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ditto on hiding them elsewhere but if you really wanted o this is the root i would consider:
look in the room above and observe the layout of the furniture. choose a location that is not in the middle of a walkway or takes the weight of heavy
furniture. also the target areal needs to be close to above the speakers. you may want to cut several holes.
cut a generous sized hole, sqaure. cut once not trim bigger or my plan dont work.
cut hole fit speakers and if there are joists in the way, feed wires around.
when fitting the access panel add wide ears to each side of the sqaure with additioal suitable wood. fix 2 to the panel and 2 under the floor with
wood screws.
then fit the same cut piece back in its original hole and add more screws to fix in place.
you can then reuse this panel if needed.
i did this several times in walls and ceilings thrpugh plasterboard recently. works a treat.
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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rgrs
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| posted on 5/2/13 at 01:39 PM |
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Something like :Solid board cutter
There is a kit complete with the plugs as well
Roger
edit as link didn't work
[Edited on 2/5/2013 by rgrs]
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nick205
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| posted on 5/2/13 at 01:52 PM |
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Can't think what they're called, but there is a tool for the job that cuts a re-usable plug out of the floor.
If you have wall access then surely it's easier to go in from below? Just use a hold cutter into the ceiling plasterboard then feed the cables
through to the wall cavities....assuming the floor joists run the right way for you.
I can't imagine the sound being much cop and the stereo imaging will be less than ideal too (if that's a worry to you). At the very least
you need to consider some sort of damping behind the driver units to reduce upstairs noise and internal reflections. Some wool loft insulation
material ought to help a little.
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blakep82
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| posted on 5/2/13 at 01:58 PM |
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A circular saw can be set to the thickness of the board, 18mm perhaps, check where the joists are, cut along the tops, but set so that the joist isnt
cut, sorted.
Better though, get as much out the room as you can and lift some boards up whole
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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bi22le
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| posted on 5/2/13 at 02:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nick205
Can't think what they're called, but there is a tool for the job that cuts a re-usable plug out of the floor.
If you have wall access then surely it's easier to go in from below? Just use a hold cutter into the ceiling plasterboard then feed the cables
through to the wall cavities....assuming the floor joists run the right way for you.
I can't imagine the sound being much cop and the stereo imaging will be less than ideal too (if that's a worry to you). At the very least
you need to consider some sort of damping behind the driver units to reduce upstairs noise and internal reflections. Some wool loft insulation
material ought to help a little.
never seen a tool before but then again its not my trade. this sis get me thinking though and if i was designing a tool i would make it cut with a
shamfer so that when you put the hole material back ot would not fall through. wood glue it in, sorted.
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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Barkalarr
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| posted on 5/2/13 at 02:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by bi22le
never seen a tool before but then again its not my trade. this sis get me thinking though and if i was designing a tool i would make it cut with a
shamfer so that when you put the hole material back ot would not fall through. wood glue it in, sorted.
That's exactly what I thought... but it looks like they do something with a metal plate. I'll pop up screwfix in the morning to check it
out.
I can't put them on top of the wall units because we only have a single bank of cupboards and I *believe* they go up to the ceiling. SWMBO
designed it so it's all feng shui ! - I just play football to pay for it... lol !!
Thanks for the ideas though much appreciated
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 5/2/13 at 02:38 PM |
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Ceiling speakers are designed to be installed from the front, at least all the ones I have seen. You cut a big hole, put the speaker in it and then
the clamps tighten from the front. The only reason you might need to lift the floor is to route the speaker wiring through any joists and/or noggins.
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YQUSTA
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| posted on 5/2/13 at 05:43 PM |
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Forget cutting the floor that's just adding to the work load.
If you know how to find the joist in the way just remove a small section of plasterboard so you have access the either side of it like a rectangle, if
you are lucky and miss the nail you can use the bit cut out to fill the hole, then repeat as required.
Fill holes and paint.
If you really want to you could make a notch in the joist so you in theory could pull in.new cable if there was ever a fault.
"If in doubt flat out"
Colin McRae
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JoelP
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| posted on 5/2/13 at 06:29 PM |
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You don't need to touch the upstairs floor. Use a 2mm drill bit into the kitchen ceiling to find the joists, use a hole saw to make the hole for
the speaker, the just feed the cable to the nearest wall. Put a channel in the wall (it will be dot and dabbled plasterboard at that age), knock
through into the ceiling void BEHIND the wall board so that the roof won't need skimming or patching. Pull cables down. Pat yourself on the
back.
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Barkalarr
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| posted on 5/2/13 at 06:46 PM |
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I was only going to touch the upstairs if / when I hit a noggin but it sounds like I don't need to now....
getting ready to pat myself on the back already...
Cheers JoelP
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Xtreme Kermit
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| posted on 5/2/13 at 08:54 PM |
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I fitted a pair of B&W ceiling mounts whilst having an extension done a few years back.
Great for unobtrusive music, but thin on sound. I had solid insulation above them as the roof was above. Maybe some softer insulation would have
helped as would a small sub tucked out of the way somewhere.
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