stevebubs
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| posted on 18/5/13 at 10:01 AM |
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Moving a domestic radiator - plumbing help!!
Hi,
Just about to start decorating my daughter's bedroom (top floor) and ideally would like to move the radiator as part of the project.
Pretty happy lifting the floor and doing the pipework but unsure what I need to do in order to make sure water doesn't gush out of the pipes
while I'm moving the rad...
Do I need to drain down the whole system, or is there a way to seal the top so the majority of the water is held in by vacuum and limited water will
gush out of the cut-off pipework?
TIA
Stephen
[Edited on 18/5/13 by stevebubs]
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JoelP
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| posted on 18/5/13 at 10:08 AM |
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We need to know what system it is to advise. I would recommend draining it fully, especially if you have done much plumbing before.
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r1_pete
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| posted on 18/5/13 at 10:13 AM |
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Best to drain it fully, when re soldering even a small amount of water in there will ruin the joint, and sods law says it always flows to the last
joint, and makes correcting it a real pain.
Freeze kits work, but do all your prep before hand, so you're relying on the freeze for the minimum amount of time possible
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Smoking Frog
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| posted on 18/5/13 at 10:13 AM |
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I think the system would benefit with being drained anyway. Bare in mind you may lose any rust inhibitor chemicals and I am not a heating
engineer.
Eddie
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stevebubs
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| posted on 18/5/13 at 10:13 AM |
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"standard" boiler.
Boiler itself is downstairs in hall but hot water tank is on the first floor. Header is obviously in the loft.
Kicking myself because new boiler was only installed 2 months ago...
How to drain / refill?
[Edited on 18/5/13 by stevebubs]
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stevebubs
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| posted on 18/5/13 at 10:15 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
Best to drain it fully, when re soldering even a small amount of water in there will ruin the joint, and sods law says it always flows to the last
joint, and makes correcting it a real pain.
Freeze kits work, but do all your prep before hand, so you're relying on the freeze for the minimum amount of time possible
Wasn't planning on soldering...British Gas Engineers used speedfit connections for the non-visible pipework when they installed the new
boiler..?
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John P
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| posted on 18/5/13 at 12:44 PM |
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Should point out that I'm not a plumber but I have done a lot of rads.
I would turn off the rad valves, then loosen one of the fittings with a bowl or similar below it.
Not much water will flow as there will be a partial vacuum in the rad so you have time to get some aluminium cooking foil and create a chute from the
valve you're loosening into the bowl.
If you then open the bleed valve the vacuum will be broken and water will flow into the bowl with very little spillage if you're careful. (Put
down some polythene and a few old towels to catch any spillage).
Be aware there is often more water in a rad than you might think and it will brobably be black and horrible so can stain carpets etc.
If you then shut off the feed to the expansion tank you can drain down the system from one of the rad valves. An old washing machine supply hose may
fit the connection so you can more easily direct the water to a bucket.
This way you will only be draining down as far as the rad you're removing rather than the whole system but do be aware if you then cut through
any pipes below the level of the rad there will still be some water in the pipework.
I've also found if you shut off the other rads it reduces the amount of water to be drained and reduces the amount of bleeding later.
Good luck.
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JoelP
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| posted on 18/5/13 at 12:46 PM |
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People use plastic connectors to avoid drying the pipe work fully. They can usually be avoided.
To drain, turn off stoptap, find a drain cock in the rad system and let it all out.
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 18/5/13 at 02:23 PM |
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Lowest point of the system usually is where the drain is. Most likely the radiator nearest the front door.
Drain it down otherwise you'll have hassle when moving pipes.
Ben
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Peteff
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| posted on 18/5/13 at 03:22 PM |
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Tie the ball up on the header tank before you drain down if you want to leave the domestic water on while you do the job, you'll need to mash
tea and use the toilet at some point 
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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stevebubs
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| posted on 18/5/13 at 07:52 PM |
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ok...what about arctic freeze? Had good results when using it previously for smallish jobs...was hoping I could run all the pipework to where it
needed to be, freeze the pipe, cut and connect to new pipework...?
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stevebubs
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| posted on 18/5/13 at 07:53 PM |
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PS If I do drain, how do I refill? Just turn the water back on and bleed each of the radiators in turn?
Guess I need to add new inhibitor fluid? Recommendations...?
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stevebubs
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| posted on 18/5/13 at 07:53 PM |
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PS Thanks for all the answers so far...
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/5/13 at 07:56 PM |
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Lift floor, shut down and tie up ball cock, freeze pipes , use pipe cutter to chop pipes, fit Speedfit servicing valves under floor and do the
rest of the job at your leisure.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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JoelP
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| posted on 18/5/13 at 08:15 PM |
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It would fill itself when the water is turned back on, or when you release the lever in the loft. If you are happy using pushfittings then bt's
approach is fine.
Be careful if you turn off any gatevalves (the ones with red wheels), they can jam shut and snap the shaft quite easily.
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