McLannahan
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| posted on 19/2/14 at 10:02 PM |
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Plumbing help?
Hi everyone.
I have a rather hideous downstairs toilet that needs some help. I'd like to change both the toilet and basin but....
I'm not very confident in my abilities in this task and wondered if anyone could advise?
Is it easy enough to install a new toilet? Any top tips? What's the best way of tackling each job?
1- as you may be able to see....neither sink or toilet have inlet taps/cut offs. I have a combi boiler so how do I stop water flowing?
2 - can I install some taps to cut the water off?
3- the toilet waste pipe is miles away from the wall and as the room is small I'd like to move the new toilet back. Is this possible?
4 - what's the best way of terminating the pipes for each?
Sorry if I'm using all the wrong terminology....it's all new to me!
[Edited on 19/2/14 by McLannahan]
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tegwin
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| posted on 19/2/14 at 10:52 PM |
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1- as you may be able to see....neither sink or toilet have inlet taps/cut offs. I have a combi boiler so how do I stop water flowing?
Turn off power to combi boiler and turn off cold feed to boiler (or cold feed to entire house at main stop cock) Open hot taps/and cold to drain the
water out of the system.... sorted...
2 - can I install some taps to cut the water off?
Yes, once you have done the thing I state above... get some inline compression check valves
3- the toilet waste pipe is miles away from the wall and as the room is small I'd like to move the new toilet back. Is this possible?
Does the waste pipe for the bog come up from the floor or through the wall?! Most modern crappers are designed for rear exit,
You can get various connectors and specialist crappers to allow for some issues but the only real solution may be to hack into the floor and
physically move the soil pipe back a bit.... could be a big task if its a clay pipe encased in the concrete pad of the house.... Need more photos to
comment further.
4 - what's the best way of terminating the pipes for each?
Question doesnt make sense...
[Edited on 19/2/14 by tegwin]
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Would the last person who leaves the country please switch off the lights and close the door!
www.verticalhorizonsmedia.tv
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SteveWalker
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| posted on 19/2/14 at 11:24 PM |
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In addition, presuming that you want to get all that tile adhesive off the wall and that it is not the waterproof variety (most isn't), brush it
a couple of times with hot water to get it good and wet and it should scrape off easily - just removed a lot of it from our bathroom that way.
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nick205
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| posted on 19/2/14 at 11:48 PM |
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Removed the exact same avocado suite from our downstairs loo when we moved in, someone must have made a packet selling that color in the 70s.
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McLannahan
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| posted on 20/2/14 at 09:03 AM |
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Thanks Tegwin and others, very helpful!
Yes, soil pipe outlet is encased in the floor, a good 11 inches from the wall?
I'm hoping a more modern toilet might be more compact then?
I think I repeated my confusion about those inline taps, sorry!
Now gave a leaking boiler this morning.....Christ this house......
Thanks chaos
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geoff shep
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| posted on 20/2/14 at 09:04 AM |
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Turn off the stop cock - that will isolate both hot and cold water. Expect some spillage though as there will still be water in the pipes. You can
remove most of it by opening the taps and a tap upstairs to let the air in.
You can get stop ends to cap the open pipes while you clear out the room - these are push fit and removable (you will need to take the paint off the
pipes with wire wool)
These flexible taps connectors are useful as they give a bit of leeway in fitting and have incorporated isolation valves:
You probably won't need the cistern overflow as most toilet/cistern combos these days have the overflow built in - i.e. it overflows into the
toilet bowel.
You can get plain and simple close-coupled toilets (where the cistern sites on the back of the toilet). To get it as far back as poss you could use
something like this to go into the soil pipe:
You might have to put in a false wall if the cistern is still too far from the back wall. That would also hide that other waste pipe.
This is a good reference book for options and techniques: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Collins-Complete-Manual-Albert-Jackson/dp/0007425953
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McLannahan
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| posted on 20/2/14 at 10:55 AM |
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Thank you Geoff, that's spot on!
When I turn the water back on is it just that simple? Will the closed/sealed/or is it? System be affected?
Thanks again
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geoff shep
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| posted on 20/2/14 at 11:42 AM |
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That simple. The central heating circuit is separate from hot and cold water supply.
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McLannahan
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| posted on 20/2/14 at 12:29 PM |
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Great, thanks Geoff. Much appreciated!
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McLannahan
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| posted on 20/2/14 at 06:51 PM |
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Thanks Geoff. Water back on and so far no leaks!
Had an unrelated disaster with the boiler though...a cracked and leaking scale inhibitor! Have installed a new one, topped up pressure on boiler and
all seems well......
Thanks again everyone...I'll be launching bodgeitandscarper plumbing services shortly! 
[Edited on 20/2/14 by McLannahan]
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