02GF74
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| posted on 23/12/17 at 10:36 AM |
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Diy advice, electrical and tiling
What's the best way to leave live wires inside a wall. I'm removing a bar heater in a bath room but the circuit is likely to be live.
Insulation tape and a plastic container to prevent wire physically touching the wall be safe?
Tiling on hard board, makes up the cupboard for the hot water tank. Does it matter that surface flexes if pushed hard?
There's no way to strengthen it ffom inside, maybe fit/glue another sheet of hard board on top? Rather not use plaster board if possible.
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CosKev3
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| posted on 23/12/17 at 10:43 AM |
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You can get what they call 'flexible ' tile adhesive, but if you can see the board move when pushed hard I would guess that's too
much and tiles will crack if someone leans on it too heavily.
I know of a timber framed house that had big issues with the tiles cracking as the house settled,on the walls and the floor.
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motorcycle_mayhem
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| posted on 23/12/17 at 10:58 AM |
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I removed a shaver socket, so the same issue. Live to it had a horizontal approach around the lime plastered bathroom wall, one of the many shear joys
of an older house.... IEE regulations? wot?
If it was me, I'd look back up the line. It'll be a spur, probapossibly, so remove it back at that junction. It may even be on it's
own earth-leakage protected circuit (depending on what prescribed zone it's in), isolable.
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loggyboy
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| posted on 23/12/17 at 11:23 AM |
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Choc blocks
Add some ply to wall on outside face .Tiling on ply is much easier to replace in future.
[Edited on 23-12-17 by loggyboy]
Mistral Motorsport
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 23/12/17 at 11:41 AM |
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Yep, the above 2 posts are spot on. Choc block, ideally in a small box or similar.
And tiling onto flexi hardboard is hopeless. 12mm ply or tile backer board screwed at 300mm centres approx is what I would do. And also use a flexible
adhesive. BAL white Star is good.....Oh, and prime the board first.
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02GF74
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| posted on 23/12/17 at 03:46 PM |
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Thanks, no idea what a choc block is but will look it up.
Just looked inside airing cupboard and it has about 20mm wall with hardboard on top, so need to screw that in so there is no movement or remove
hardboard altogether. Not as bad as I thought.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 23/12/17 at 03:55 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
Thanks, no idea what a choc block is but will look it up.
Here's one inside a nice (cheap) box.
Screwfix
(Note: If you buy one of these boxes you'll still need to buy the connection strip that goes inside. They are also cheap.)
[Edited on 23/12/17 by David Jenkins]
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loggyboy
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| posted on 23/12/17 at 05:39 PM |
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I wouldn't even bother with box. If it gets that wet inside an electrical short is gonna be last of your worries. Just the connector block will
be fine for keeping them from touching.
Mistral Motorsport
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SJ
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| posted on 23/12/17 at 10:11 PM |
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Why leave it live?
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The Knobs
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| posted on 24/12/17 at 12:52 AM |
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Wago box and wago connectors, job done for live cable as maintenance free connections
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owelly
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| posted on 24/12/17 at 01:04 AM |
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As far as the tiling goes, and I know you don't want to use plaster board (but don't day why) but I'd screw plasterboard over the
fibreboard and tile direct onto the plaster board.
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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02GF74
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| posted on 24/12/17 at 09:45 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by SJ
Why leave it live?
Because I don't know where it is wired to,
If it is on separate circuit then removing the fuse will do but going by the incompetent diy wiring i suspect it won't be.
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The Knobs
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| posted on 24/12/17 at 12:45 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by The Knobs
Wago box and wago connectors, job done for live cable as maintenance free connections
Only way to leave a cable live inaccessable is to use maintenance free connectors, not choc blocks
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02GF74
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| posted on 24/12/17 at 02:16 PM |
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OK, what are free connectors, same as terminal block?
The lot will be wound with insulation tape and boxed in by plastic so no part will touch the solid wall.
There is no separate circuit as far as I can tell.
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daniel mason
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| posted on 24/12/17 at 08:39 PM |
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Can you not find where it’s fed from and disconnect it properly?
Connector blocks and tape aren’t acceptable.
Are you sure there’s no double pole isolation outside the bathroom which isolated the heater?
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