number-1
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| posted on 10/3/18 at 11:59 AM |
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stopping engine running?
Morning folks
How have you got your ignitions set up on your BECs? Are you using the bike controls or have you wired in switches to the dash, such as power on,
starter button etc?
The reason i ask is on mine, i have toggle switch to turn the power on, and a starter button. For some reason, after i start the car, even when i turn
the power off, the engine still runs ( i presume by the alternator). Its an R1 5vy engine in the rear.
Any suggestions as to how to rectify this?
Cheers
N1
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Hopley89
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| posted on 11/3/18 at 09:06 AM |
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you should have ignition on, cut off switch, and start
unless it has been wired different but your cut of switch should turn the engine off without turning ignition
off.
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number-1
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| posted on 11/3/18 at 03:50 PM |
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Hi mate
The wiring has been 'adapted' by the former keeper!!
He has removed the bike switch gear and wired in a kit car style toggle switch for power on, and a push button starter.
It wouldn't be too bad if he had labeled stuff 
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ko_racer
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| posted on 12/3/18 at 03:04 PM |
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Im pretty sure the standard bike switch cuts the ignition and fuel pump power feed via the big multi relay . Should be quite easy to add that circuit
back in.
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number-1
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| posted on 12/3/18 at 08:23 PM |
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Hello mate
I was considering doing that. Ive traced almost all of the wires bar a few.
Everything seems as it should be so ive ordered a new multi relay assembly. Something happened a while back that made me question if it was working
ok or sticking. Now this has happened i think it could be the problem.
Cheers
N1
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ko_racer
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| posted on 13/3/18 at 09:12 AM |
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I've wired in loads of R1's.
Most are very similar with just a few extra circuits for extra sensors.
Here's my simplified 5PW diagram, almopst entirely the same as the 5vy circuit, especially around the relay area.
Simplified Wiring R1
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number-1
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| posted on 13/3/18 at 08:45 PM |
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Fantastic diagram! I really appreciate it. Ill have a look at the weekend and see how it compares to what ive got
The new relay assembly arrived today so hopefully i will be good to go
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Andy B
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| posted on 13/3/18 at 11:41 PM |
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Could be that the charging circuit is on the wrong side of the cut off switch - seen it loads of times - you cut it off but it runs off the generator
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number-1
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| posted on 14/3/18 at 11:52 AM |
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Hello Andy
If it was the wrong side would it not always do it? Mines done it on a couple of occasions but mainly its been fine. Id think that if it was wired
wrong then it would do it all of the time?
This is what leads me to the relay assembly........ on a wing and a prayer more than anything 
EDIT : I forgot to mention that my loom is a USA one so wires on the ECU are as below.
[Edited on 14/3/18 by number-1]
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number-1
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| posted on 20/3/18 at 08:18 PM |
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Well, ive had a cold few days out in the garage tracing wires and seeing whats going on.
Ive checked the 5VY wiring diagram and followed the wires and noted what goes to where. Im tidying stuff up as i go along as im not happy with some of
it.....such as the rear lights, brake lights, fog etc.....the wiring is bad so ive cut it all out and will start a fresh.
The set up ive got is on/off toggle switch (acts as ignition switch), push button start. On starting it today ive noticed the following...
1) The fans come on as soon as i flip the switch to 'on' so they are always running when theres power to dash area.
2) Again, i couldn't turn the engine off today even if i pulled the wires off behind the toggle switch. Ive tested the switch during the time i
couldnt turn it off and the switch does work so can rule that out. I had the engine running for around 30 mins to check for leaks after i renewed and
re routed the coolant pipes before trying to turn it off and the temp never went above 70 degrees C.
3) When i couldnt turn the engine off I pulled a fuse labeled 'fan switch point' which is part of the hand made (not by me ) car
loom......(lights, horn, indicators etc).. and the engine stopped......with the fuse pulled i could start and stop the engine via the toggle
switch.
Now.....the plot thickens........... the 'fan switch point' fuse was out, yet when i started the engine after, still with the fuse
out......the fans were on! I would have thought with the fan fuse out they would be off? After a cuppa tea, I started the engine about 20 mins later
when the engine had cooled, still with the 'fan switch point' fuse out......and the fans were off?!?
I need to check.....but from memory the bike loom still has the fan relay, fan fuses in the fuse box connected.
How does this sound for a plan of attack?..........
I need to check, next week when i have a day off, if i can turn the engine on/off via the toggle switch BEFORE the engine is up to the temperature
where the bike fans would have kicked in as if it was on a bike. I will put the 'fan switch point' fuse back in for this. The reason for
this is to see if the wiring is corrupt somehow and the original bike loom relay/fan electrics are being overridden by the constant 'live'
fans wiring.
It seems like there is a conflict somewhere when the engine is up to the temp where the bike fans would kick in, and the live wired fan switch
wiring
I hope some of the above makes sense as i have read it a few times and changed it every time due to tired eyes
I do really appreciate all the help folks.
N1
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 21/3/18 at 11:22 AM |
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ok, you are making good progress
- the fan is switched both by the ignition and a thermostatic switch
you need to remove one or other circuit
running it with the fuse removed is doing just that (ie not on when ignition is on) and the thermostatic circuit switching it on as it should.
be careful the fan can cut in at any point even if the engine is off. ie park somewhere and it may come on after you have opened the bonnet
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number-1
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| posted on 21/3/18 at 08:14 PM |
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Cheers for the help matey.
I will get out there when im off next and see if the theory works......ill start the car with the fuse out to see if the fans do kick in when up to
temp and then go from there.
N1
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number-1
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| posted on 26/3/18 at 06:01 PM |
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Well i had a few hours out there today mainly tidying wires up and enjoying a bit of sun and stumbled across the following.....
Imagine there is a line down the length of the car from back to front. Any wires to the right (O/S) become live when the toggle switch is turned on
via a distributor board. There is also a distributor board on the left side but i cant see any power going to it even when the toggle is switched
on.
A wire that becomes live on the O/S is the Hydraulic brake switch.....it comes from the distributor board to the back of the car and into the switch
so i presume there are brake lights from the get go when the car is on.
I found that the 'Fan switch point' wiring is joined with the horn......It comes from the left hand side of the car from another
distributor board that serves accessories such as lights, horn etc, to the rear of the car and joins the wire for the Hydraulic brake switch?!?
Ive no idea at all why the previous owner has wired the car like this? It seems from my very very untrained eye like the live brake switch wiring is
powering the 'fan switch point' wires and into the left hand side distributor board
Again, i cant really see why this would be the case but these are my findings 
[Edited on 26/3/18 by number-1]
EDIT.....Ive just realised that if the fan switch point is wired into the live brake switch wiring which in turn goes back to the distributor board
which in turn goes to various places....including the main ignition switch ( wired to be permanent on so the toggle switch can be used) which in turn
feeds the entire bike loom with power......... could this be the reason the car wont turn off sometimes???
[Edited on 26/3/18 by number-1]
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