timf
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 posted on 23/5/03 at 08:36 AM |
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tools
for the builders who have made their own chassis what tool would you most like to have to make life easier.
When I built my 1st locost i used an abrasive cut off saw, quick but the grit gets everywhere, now i'm building another one i'm thinking
of getting a small metal cutting bandsaw. Just interested in what people have used/ think is invaluable.
Tim
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James
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| posted on 23/5/03 at 12:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by timf
for the builders who have made their own chassis what tool would you most like to have to make life easier.
When I built my 1st locost i used an abrasive cut off saw, quick but the grit gets everywhere, now i'm building another one i'm thinking
of getting a small metal cutting bandsaw. Just interested in what people have used/ think is invaluable.
Tim
For the chassis I'd say a metal chop-saw would have been brilliant.
Even better would be one where you can cut angles greater than 45° (or atleast has a bed such that the work is still supported if you turn it through
180°.
We have a band saw at college that I've used and yes, you can do more than 45° on it but it's blinkin slow (quicker than by hand though!)
and if you're not really careful the blade keeps jumping of or snapping! 
HTH,
James
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kingr
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| posted on 23/5/03 at 12:34 PM |
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I think if you do get a bandsaw it's only worth getting a good one, I was luck enough to be able borrow a big 3 phase one to cut up the plate
for my upright and it practically fell through it and that's 3mm, I also used it to cut up 60mm x 3mm tube, which was OK, but not desperately
accurate, and you had to go in on a corner (no good trying to get it to cut into a face). Liquid cooled metal blade chop saw would probably be a very
nice tool to work with.
Kingr
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 23/5/03 at 12:56 PM |
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I posted this earlier... but it's vanished (probably due to ChrisW's reboot)
I used a hacksaw - cheap, effective and accurate.
At least, it's all these things if you spend some money on a really good hacksaw frame and on some decent quality bi-metal blades with the
correct tooth pitch for the job.
It also gives a decent amount of physical exercise!
For me, in my crowded garage attached to the house, it also meant not covering everything in abrasive grit, and very little noise. Finally it takes
very little storage space!
David
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timf
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| posted on 23/5/03 at 01:02 PM |
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there is always one
masochist. only joking dave
i did 1/2 the firs't chassis i built with a hacksaw then got fed up and brought an abrasive saw, yes the dust/ grit does go every where.
a small tip for those intent on using a hacksaw , make a mitre box for cutting the angles it makes life alot eaiser and accurate
[Edited on 23/5/03 by timf]
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kingr
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| posted on 23/5/03 at 03:02 PM |
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Bi-Metal hacksaw blades? Are these common or more special? I've just been using Stanley "lyon" IIRC, do they consitute bi-metal or
am I using the wrong tool for the job?
Kingr
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James
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| posted on 23/5/03 at 03:20 PM |
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And add to that:
what's the correct teeth per inch to use?
Thanks,
James
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 23/5/03 at 03:26 PM |
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The aim is to get a minimum of 2 teeth in the work at any time. For 1.6mm, this means 32 teeth per inch ('scuse the mixed measuring systems 
)
Ideally, it's 3 teeth in the work, but you can't get 48tpi blades! (not easily, anyroads)
David
(TGIF)
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Rob Lane
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| posted on 23/5/03 at 03:30 PM |
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When I built mine I used a hacksaw, a grinderette and a B&D Workmate.
All indispensible.
Now, I've got a bandsaw that will also go vertical and I wonder why I didn't get one in first place, sooo much easier. Even makes short
work of small bits of ali sheet cutting.
Rob Lane
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James
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| posted on 23/5/03 at 03:31 PM |
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Why do they produce anything other than 32tpi? If you want a minimum?
What's the benefit of larger teeth?
I've been using 32tpi for the car (as that was what was lying around!) but we'd had blades with less than that which I've used in
the past and they appear to crack more easily.
Cheers,
James
Who should've paid more attention in CDT at school!
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Peteff
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| posted on 23/5/03 at 05:31 PM |
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Car boot hacksaws.
I got a couple of used frames from a car boot sale about a quid each, good makes, and put coarse and fine blades in to save swapping. I have a
14" abrasive chop saw that I bought when cutting my chassis tube and it has been used for several other projects, trailers, security grills etc.
but the things I think make life easier during the build are clamps, grips and clecos once you get into building proper.
yours, Pete.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 23/5/03 at 07:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by kingr
Bi-Metal hacksaw blades? Are these common or more special?
Very common!
Most of the blade is a tough springy steel, with the rest made up of a thin strip of extra-hard steel, where the teeth are.
The very best blade is an all-hard one - cuts beautifully and straight, if your technique is half-decent. Trouble is, one twist or jam and the blade
snaps!
The bi-metal blades are a very good compromise.
DJ
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Alan B
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| posted on 23/5/03 at 07:43 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by James
Why do they produce anything other than 32tpi? If you want a minimum?
What's the benefit of larger teeth?
I've been using 32tpi for the car (as that was what was lying around!) but we'd had blades with less than that which I've used in
the past and they appear to crack more easily.
Cheers,
James
Who should've paid more attention in CDT at school!
James,
Bigger teeth cut better, more clearance for chips, don't clog easily....which is great for cutting bar.....tube is the problem and coarse teeth
will snag and break hence the 3 teeth minimum rule means fine piched blades fro tube...
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Spyderman
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| posted on 26/5/03 at 07:56 PM |
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The most useful tool I have is a 9 inch angle grinder with a stand to make it like a chop saw.
The most useful tool I want is a big compressor.
You can get all sorts of power tools to work of an airline and they are less bulky than electrical equivalents.
Terry
ps. Anybody know where to get a good compressor from without taking a second mortgage?
I want about 9cfm FAD.
[Edited on 26/5/03 by Spyderman]
Spyderman
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timf
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| posted on 27/5/03 at 09:51 AM |
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compressor
i cheated and brought 2 £100 5 fad cfm compressors from B&Q and joined them together, The result quite happily runs my home made sand blasting
cabinet (£25)
Tim
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Spyderman
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| posted on 27/5/03 at 10:50 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by timf
i cheated and brought 2 £100 5 fad cfm compressors from B&Q and joined them together, The result quite happily runs my home made sand blasting
cabinet (£25)
Tim
Mmmm.
I hadn't thought of that!
Good idea.
That is what I want to do, make a blasting cabinet, hence the high FAD.
Cheers
Terry
ps. I presume you don't have any power problems when both compressors kit in together - like blowing fuses or triping circuits?
Spyderman
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timf
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| posted on 28/5/03 at 01:29 PM |
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quote:
ps. I presume you don't have any power problems when both compressors kit in together - like blowing fuses or triping circuits?
no problems at all
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