ned
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| posted on 15/11/06 at 10:09 PM |
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OT few plumbing questions
In the final stages of planning and purchasing before I get on with sorting the bathroom. Hopefully last couple of questions I need answers for and
haven't been very successful with google this evening.
1.) Is it normal to tile round basin, cistern etc or to tile first then fit basin in front of tiles?
2.)Chasing pipes into a wall for a recessed shower valve I've read lots of places say I need to shield the copper pipe from moisture/mortar, but
what do I shield/sheeth(sp?) it with?
3.)How much difference to flow rate (thinking primarily for thermostatic valved shower) does bending rather than using 90 degree elbows make on supply
runs?
cheers,
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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BenB
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| posted on 15/11/06 at 10:17 PM |
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1. Tile then put basin in place....
2. You can use plastic pipe in the first place  Or run the 15mm copper in 32mm waste pipe. Certainly copper in cement is bad mojo- not only because
trying to make alterations is damn impossible if the pipe is stuck in the middle of cement. Putting in 32mm is a nice idea because it means if
you've got access to the bare copper pipe. Obviously requires a bit of thickness in the wall....
3. Will make little if any difference in my experience. I've never done a direct comparison but I've done both and never noticed a
significant difference.
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JohnN
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| posted on 15/11/06 at 10:23 PM |
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Tile first
I've seen Duck tape used to wrap copper pipe
No noticeable difference
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flak monkey
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| posted on 15/11/06 at 10:31 PM |
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As before, tiles first, looks a damn sight better, just be careful you dont crack the tile when you drill it...
You do need to protect copper pipes in concrete, the alkali (lime) in the cement attacks the pipe, which isnt a good thing. You could just use plastic
pipe though, no problem there then! Alternatively you need to wrape the copper pipe, or put it inside something else as ben said.
Little difference, bending does compress the pipe, however, you can get smoother flow with bends, rather than fittings, so swings and roundabouts.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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JoelP
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| posted on 15/11/06 at 10:33 PM |
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AFAIK its only concrete that copper needs protection from, due to some acid or other. If the bath isnt a perfect fit you could just board the wall an
inch out and run the pipes up that, gives you an excellent flat surface to tile onto, somewhere easy to attach your shower screen and allows you to
correct walls if they arent quite square.
And i would never use plastic pipe for this application, just my personal preference. Cant stand it myself, copper and solder all the way.
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owelly
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| posted on 15/11/06 at 11:48 PM |
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It depends on what sort of basin, toilet, bathetc as to whether you are fitting. If you are fitting the 'normal' pedestal type basin, tile
first. If you are using 'floating' type or similar, tile after.
Tile after fitting a bath so the tiles cover the wall fixings.
I always use plastic where it is out of sight and copper if it's visible. You can buy plastic sheathing to cover copper pipe if you intend to
bury it. Always polish off any flux that is left on the pipework as it will munch its way through.
It matters not a jot on what bends you use as long as you have exactly the same pressure to both hot and cold inlets on the shower unit, and that the
pressure is adequate. Both feeds should come from the cold water storage tank (although the hot will pass through whatever heater you have).
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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ned
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| posted on 16/11/06 at 08:56 AM |
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Thanks for the comments guys.
THIS is the bathroom suite and
THIS is the shower.
Looks like I'll have to buy the tiles as well now then. Got a long list of pipes and fittings so another screwfix order to go in soon, planning
on using copper with solder ring fittings.
cheers ,
Ned.
ps the bath is steel/enamel and has legs underneath, but no wall fixings?!
also cistern is close coupled with no holes to fix to wall and pedestal has no holes to fix to floor, is this normal? current suite has wooden frame
round bath to wall but is grp, current pedestal and cistern are fixed to wall/floor respectively.
[Edited on 16/11/06 by ned]
beware, I've got yellow skin
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JoelP
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| posted on 16/11/06 at 08:39 PM |
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once the toilet is in place and level (i wedge tile spacers in!), silicone round the base, and squirt some adhesive (no more nails etc) down the back
of the cistern. Same for the sink, just silicone top and bottom, onto the pedestal and around the base of the pedestal. You probably should
screw it but its a lot of effort.
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