JoelP
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| posted on 22/3/07 at 07:32 PM |
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Connecting copper to lead pipes
got a job next week that needs a new stoptap connecting onto existing lead incoming pipework. Only options i can think of are soldering copper into it
or using a leadlok fitting. Are there any other options? Gettting someone to solder it isnt looking cheap, and im not sure i trust leadlok fittings,
considering it will be before the stop tap and hidden behind a unit! Also need to cap one, assuming i cant trace back to copper how hard it is to cap
lead?
Any good ideas?! Cheers!
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jacko
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| posted on 22/3/07 at 07:39 PM |
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Joelp i think it is illegal to solder drinking water pipes ie copper to leed
graham
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DarrenW
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| posted on 22/3/07 at 07:46 PM |
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I had an old cottage a while back. It had a lead mains to the house. Went through it one day (thats how i found out it was lead). Managed to repair it
by cutting a section out and repairing with compression fittings and a bit of copper in the middle.
Wasnt long before i replaced it with plastic. Not too bad a job considering. Worst bit was waiting for the water board to come out and connect it up.
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JohnN
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| posted on 22/3/07 at 07:50 PM |
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You need to connect via a brass fitting soldered to the lead pipe, lead and copper in contact would corrode as electropotentially they are too
dissimilar. This was a common joint 30 years ago as new copper needed to be connected to existing lead communication (from the stop tap) pipework
Some water co's have an opportunistic lead communication pipe replacement policy. It may be that if your lead pipe is a communication pipe, the
water co. will replace it free for you
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rash
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| posted on 22/3/07 at 09:08 PM |
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leadlock
use a leadlock will hold pressure fine they are expensive though around15-20 pounds i think
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JoelP
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| posted on 22/3/07 at 11:02 PM |
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ive charged £150 to do it, so £20 on the fitting isnt too bad if it works! 
Id rather use a leadlok myself rather than pay my plumber mate to solder it.
John, ive seen him do it in the past by hacksawing the lead, drilling the middle to 15mm, inserting the copper and then using a solder stick and a
flux coated rag to seal it. Is this naughty?!
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caber
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| posted on 22/3/07 at 11:27 PM |
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Traditional and best way of doing it. deirty it up and it could have been there for years
Caber
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Chippy
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| posted on 22/3/07 at 11:54 PM |
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Have done this many times in the past. Bell the lead pipe out to accept the copper, it should go in about an inch, (or 25mm), tin the end of the
copper, scrape the lead so it is clean and shiney, and apply some flux, then melt stick solder into the joint, and form a bell like top by wiping the
solder, this should be done with a mole skin, but a bit of leather will do the job. Should take no more than 20 min's, so for 150 its a steel.
HTH Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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Peteff
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| posted on 23/3/07 at 12:20 AM |
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To cap a lead pipe fold it back on itself and beat it flat with a hammer.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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JoelP
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| posted on 29/3/07 at 09:32 PM |
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sweet bejesus that wasnt fun  I got fittings for 7lbs pipe but it was a bit too small, i had to file a mm off all the way round! Spent about 2 hours
pissing about with it. Damn. At least it didnt leak!
For the record, how is lead sized? i assume 7lbs pipe is 7 pound per foot or something? What other sizes were common? Unusually, wikipedia has
nothing on it.
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chrisg
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| posted on 29/3/07 at 10:17 PM |
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As a matter of interest mate, do you live in the 1860's?
Lead in the water could explain quite a lot actually
cheers
Chris
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JoelP
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| posted on 30/3/07 at 07:40 AM |
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lol
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 30/3/07 at 12:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by chrisg
As a matter of interest mate, do you live in the 1860's?
All the houses around my area have lead pipes comming into the house from the water main!
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