dilley
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| posted on 19/5/07 at 07:24 AM |
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sounds proofing
I am going to keep the ultima for the time being, I am going to soundproof and carpet the cockpit, one thing i have thoughtt about doing is sound
proofing all the out of sight and dry voids i can find,my question is (don't laugh)would loft insulation be ok???? it's really easy to
work with and can be pushed and compressed into gaps, as I said it will be out of sight and should really have a big impact on road noise, I have
actually filled one of the voids and when you tap the outside skin in the car it is solid rather than echoy(?) these cars really are noisy!!!! also
thought about filling the doors with the same stuff as they will be sealed,
any thoughts???
Dilley.
[Edited on 19/5/07 by dilley]
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nitram38
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| posted on 19/5/07 at 07:30 AM |
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Have you ever thought of using the squirty type foam from diy shops?
Parrellel designs use it in there side sills.
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dilley
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| posted on 19/5/07 at 07:42 AM |
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Thought of that bu you never know where it is going to end up, also if you over do it it could deform the outer body work or I could end up with
exploding rivets!!!
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Hellfire
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| posted on 19/5/07 at 07:45 AM |
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Loft insulation may be OK but surely it's more suited for preventing heat loss rather than soundproofing.
Have a look here, it may give you some idea of the areas you could consider
treating and the type of materials you could use.
Give em a call, get their opinion and as much info out of them as you can and then go for a DIY solution (or even get them to do it if they're
cheap enough..... which I somehow doubt )
Phil
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wilkingj
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| posted on 19/5/07 at 07:52 AM |
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Soundproofing required dense materials. Also you can put those thin sticky pads on panels to stop them vibrating.
My Land Rover soundprroofing kit is made from a dense rubber sandwich with closed cell foam between them. The other stuff on the bulkhead, is a thin
dense rubber sheet sandwich with a thin layer of lead sheet inbetween.
Good soundproofing is quite heavy. My Land Rover kit weighed in at about 60Kgs.
Cheaper stuff can be used like the dense hairy felt stuff.
Try:
Linky
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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dilley
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| posted on 19/5/07 at 07:56 AM |
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Roof insulation is quite heavy,fire proof and if it is pressed becomes quite dense???
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907
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| posted on 19/5/07 at 08:07 AM |
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Hi Dilley
I've done work for a company in Colchester called Sound Attenuators.
They favoured rock wool in their sound proofing panels.
It's denser than f/glass.
One prob I do see is that if the stuff gets wet it will become heavy, and take for ever to dry out.
Paul G
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dilley
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| posted on 19/5/07 at 08:28 AM |
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I will have a look in Ridgeons, 1 locost Ultima coming up!!
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nitram38
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| posted on 19/5/07 at 08:48 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by dilley
Thought of that bu you never know where it is going to end up, also if you over do it it could deform the outer body work or I could end up with
exploding rivets!!!
It is not under enough pressure to deform panels or explode rivets and can be cut easily when set.
It is soft an wet when it expands, not solid when it expands!!!!
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dilley
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| posted on 19/5/07 at 09:03 AM |
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.........I used some under a 1/4 ton hot tub and it lifted it 10mm!!!!!!
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RazMan
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| posted on 19/5/07 at 09:10 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by dilley
1 locost Ultima coming up!!
A certain irony in that statement
I used bitumen loaded pads on my ally panels which stops a lot of panel drumming. It all depends where the noise is coming from really - I suspect it
might have something to do with those bloomin' great pistons going up & down
[Edited on 19-5-07 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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Hammerhead
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| posted on 19/5/07 at 09:35 AM |
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how about upholstery foam? can get various densities. can be pushed into small spaces. Get the CMHR foam as it is fire retardent. Also cheap from a
foam converter company.
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blakep82
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| posted on 19/5/07 at 11:00 AM |
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dynamat (used for sound insulation in cars with load sound systems) it stiffens the panel, and is only 3-4mm thick. i think its got self adhesive
backing, so take it out the packet, cut to shape and stick it down.
speak to a car audio shop
on top of that, i'm told normal house carpet with foam backing does a really good job, but never tried myself...
[Edited on 19/5/07 by blakep82]
________________________
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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kipper
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| posted on 19/5/07 at 11:46 AM |
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sound proofing
When I had my transit van I used vynil flooring tiles to stop the panels booming.
They are self adhesive , very easy to shape. and are cheap
Hope this helps
Regards Kipper.
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Johnmor
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| posted on 19/5/07 at 12:04 PM |
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I would go for density , but of course that adds weight.
I used carpet tiles, can be attractive finish, easily cut , durable dense and can be attached with contact adhesive.
Just dont put near exhaust pipes etc
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Hellfire
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| posted on 19/5/07 at 12:55 PM |
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Dynomat is soooo expensive.... with hind-sight I'd use floor tiles.
Steve
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dilley
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| posted on 19/5/07 at 04:44 PM |
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dynamat equivalent on ebay 50 sq feet for £50, didn't think that was too bad.
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DIY Si
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| posted on 19/5/07 at 09:00 PM |
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Another vote for Dynamat here. I used 2 of the little triangular packs you can get in Halfords and it changed the mini from not being able to talk at
all, ie you had to shout even at 45 mph, to being able to have a discussion at 70+. Oh, it is self adhesive and easy to cut. Just make sure you get it
right frist time, as it doesn't like sticking twice.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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