froggy
|
| posted on 19/6/07 at 07:45 PM |
|
|
plumbing problem?
i have a bog standard non condensing combi boiler left over from a house build and a load of pex pipe too. if i bury the pex pipe in the floor slab of
my new garage over some 4" polystyrene sheets and connect the pipes to the flow and return of the combi will it work as underfloor heating?
|
|
|
|
|
oadamo
|
| posted on 19/6/07 at 07:52 PM |
|
|
off subject
but any updates on your kitten build its gonna be mad when finished 
adam
|
|
|
ruskino80
|
| posted on 19/6/07 at 07:55 PM |
|
|
yes-we did this under a new concrete slab however we chucked in nearly 50m of pipe on a floor approx 6m by 3m,it takes a long time to heat through the
slab,and its more of a background heat.also we did not connect up as a flow and return but just as the main flow.
|
|
|
Wadders
|
| posted on 19/6/07 at 07:56 PM |
|
|
Can't see any reason why it wont work. Ideally you need to lower the water temp with a blending valve before it goes round the loop. underfloor
runs at a much lower temp. also put a couple of drain downs on to assist filling and air bleeding.
Al.
Originally posted by froggy
i have a bog standard non condensing combi boiler left over from a house build and a load of pex pipe too. if i bury the pex pipe in the floor slab of
my new garage over some 4" polystyrene sheets and connect the pipes to the flow and return of the combi will it work as underfloor heating?
|
|
|
Chippy
|
| posted on 19/6/07 at 09:48 PM |
|
|
Stick in a couple of rads, warms up quicker, and far easier to do. IMHO Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
|
|
|
MkIndy7
|
| posted on 19/6/07 at 10:07 PM |
|
|
Somwhere there must be calculations of the heat given up by the length of pipe i.e 1m of pipe = 1/4 KW to size it correctly.
(just re-read the post but will leave this bit in for other people who might be reading)
The Correct way to do it is for it to be fed from a header on the main circuit (so 2 smaller loops can be taken off) and where it branches off to have
a 3 port valve (to divert most of the hotter water when its not in use or upto temperature) and a pump to circulate it around all the extra
pipework.
You would also need a room stat to control the new circuit... I think the stat would then control the 3 port valve and how much water it diverts then
when the valve reaches its wide open position the end switch inside would start the pump.
(or in your case set the boiler at a low temperature and have the room stat controlling the boiler direct)
I've only ever installed it to a specification that was set by somebody else but thats the basic ideas and components of it.
As for pipework they had plastic microbore that clipped into polystyrene sections which had aluminium reflectors in them.. then a chipboard
"floating" floor above which could then be carpeted etc.
Its a very strange even heat given off, everything radiates head... table legs etc feel warm.
[Edited on 19/6/07 by MkIndy7]
|
|
|
Ferg
|
| posted on 20/6/07 at 05:49 AM |
|
|
Yes it will work. If it's the only load on the boiler then all it needs is a pump and Room Stat to work it.
Make sure the boiler stat is set no higher than 40 degrees though, and the system should be under pressure when the screed is laid.
|
|
|
