nick205
|
| posted on 3/9/07 at 08:38 PM |
|
|
soldering - plumbing question
If you use solder ring type fittings do you need to apply flux to the pipe/fitting before soldering or do you just push together and heat until the
solder flows?
(plumbing project coming up this weekend to add an outside tap and another in the garage)
|
|
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 3/9/07 at 08:41 PM |
|
|
In theory, as long as everything is clean it should flow without any extra flux although I like to apply a little electrical solder (with a flux core)
just to be sure
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
caber
|
| posted on 3/9/07 at 08:43 PM |
|
|
Get some wire wool, clean end of pipe, coat in flux insert in fitting then heat until you see solder around the edge of the joint then immediately
remove heat, if you over cook it you risk losing the solder out of the joint. It is easy to get the hang of it and is very satisfying to get a neat
finish and straight runs!
Caber
|
|
|
pewe
|
| posted on 3/9/07 at 08:44 PM |
|
|
I've always used flux first then wiped off any excess with a damp cloth after applying the heat.
Unlike capillary fittings where you can whack in the solder I think it's best not to take chances. If not flux then clean the pipe with a bit
of wire wool first but make sure there's none left on the pipe, Cheers, Pewe 
PS must be true if caber's saying it as well!
[Edited on 3/9/07 by pewe]
|
|
|
JoelP
|
| posted on 3/9/07 at 08:56 PM |
|
|
always easier with flux though 
|
|
|
BenB
|
| posted on 3/9/07 at 09:04 PM |
|
|
Always flux'd with solder ring stuff. Wire wool tube until good and shiny... Heat until you just begin to see a ring of silver at the tube /
joiner interface then take away the heat. Jobs a good'un every time
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 3/9/07 at 09:08 PM |
|
|
Thanks chaps - flux it is then! Looking forward to having a go
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 3/9/07 at 09:13 PM |
|
|
Next question....
Will this piece of kit be OK for small scale DIY plumbing work or do I need something more powerful?
680W heat output. Pencil flame for general purpose applications. With anti-flare and drop-safe design. Use with mixed gas or butane. Includes 175g
Mixed Gas canister.
Image deleted by owner
[Edited on 3/9/07 by nick205]
|
|
|
Confused but excited.
|
| posted on 3/9/07 at 09:27 PM |
|
|
you would be better getting the larger propane torch. Better still splash out on a 'professional head that swirls the flame around the pipe. It
heats the joint, not half the piping.
Tell them about the bent treacle edges!
|
|
|
JoelP
|
| posted on 3/9/07 at 09:34 PM |
|
|
that would be fine for a few joins, but probably not if they are at all wet/damp.
|
|
|
James
|
| posted on 4/9/07 at 06:58 AM |
|
|
Not that I'd done any plumbing before a few weeks ago.... but I've just re-plumbed my entire house!
But here's what I learnt.
Clean up the rough edge with the pipe cutter 'point'.
Always clean it up really well with wire wool, and make sure no wool is stuck inside or on the rough edge.
Definately use flux. Plumber mate uses it on all solder joints.
Try to keep the heat on the pipe not the York fitting. Rotate flame around the pipe if poss.
Pull away heat pretty much as soon as solder become visible.
It's important to clean the soldered joint with a wet cloth otherwise the flux keeps eating the copper!
One last thing, if one end of your plumbing you're doing it old or 'wet' then my plumber mate recommended using compression
fittings.... as the old or wet joints are much harder to do well.
I have no leaks yet! 
Hope that helps,
James
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 4/9/07 at 07:04 AM |
|
|
All good info guys!
Decided to go for a slightly bigger and more powerful torch, more power is always a good thing - right
James - I learned the tip on compression fittings for older/dirty joints after a plumber I used before had to come back twice to replace leaking
solder joints with compression fittings 
|
|
|
JonBowden
|
| posted on 4/9/07 at 09:44 AM |
|
|
One point, you shouldn't use electrical solder on water pipes as it contains lead.
Jon
|
|
|
John.Taylor
|
| posted on 4/9/07 at 12:03 PM |
|
|
Depending on what you're doing, there is good money to be saved using non pre-soldered (end feed) fittings and a spool of solder as oppose to
pre-soldered (yorkshire) fittings.
I work for a plumbing company and we ban engineers from using Yorkshire fittings. We can buy 15mm end feed couplings for 11p against 15mm Yorkshire
couplings for 17p.
The difference is greater on elbows and tee's and greater still on 22mm fittings.
|
|
|
martyn_16v
|
| posted on 4/9/07 at 01:50 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by JonBowden
One point, you shouldn't use electrical solder on water pipes as it contains lead.
Not any more. But it's still a valid point, as most people have probably got half a reel of solder kicking about that's old enough to have
lead in
|
|
|
Ferg
|
| posted on 4/9/07 at 02:39 PM |
|
|
You can still use lead solder on non-potable water pipes.
NEVER solder pipework without using a flux.
Good self-cleaning fluxes avoid the wire wool stage.
Any water in a pipe will prevent soldering properly. If necessary blow up the pipe to 'win' yourself a few seconds and solder quickly
before the water comes back. OR a small pellet of bread pushed into the pipe. Holds the water back for a while, but disintegrates when the flow is
turned back on again.
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 4/9/07 at 09:33 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by John.Taylor
Depending on what you're doing, there is good money to be saved using non pre-soldered (end feed) fittings and a spool of solder as oppose to
pre-soldered (yorkshire) fittings.
I work for a plumbing company and we ban engineers from using Yorkshire fittings. We can buy 15mm end feed couplings for 11p against 15mm Yorkshire
couplings for 17p.
The difference is greater on elbows and tee's and greater still on 22mm fittings.
For the amount of work I'll be doing that kind of saving is not really an issue. Although the reason for looking into it is to save money over
using compression or push-fit connections.
|
|
|
