meany
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| posted on 6/10/07 at 11:13 AM |
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1.8k series headgasket
anything to watch out for when changing the headgasket on a freelander.
got the new layered type.
and an inlet manifold gasket.
and the dizzy seal.
already done a cambelt change, so ok with that side.
its being changed for a slight water loss problem.
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Hammerhead
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| posted on 6/10/07 at 11:15 AM |
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British Trident is your man, very knowledgable on the special K.
Have fun 
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stevec
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| posted on 6/10/07 at 11:23 AM |
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Have a good look at the inlet manifold gasket before you take the head off.
Steve.
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meany
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| posted on 6/10/07 at 11:25 AM |
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looking for?
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stevec
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| posted on 6/10/07 at 12:18 PM |
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Leaks where the water passes through it.
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meany
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| posted on 6/10/07 at 12:56 PM |
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well yeah, but any specific known areas where its likely to have failed?.
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scottc
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| posted on 6/10/07 at 01:09 PM |
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I think theres also some sort of updated/uprated oil rail, thats supposed to help stop the K-Series eating HG's
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meany
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| posted on 6/10/07 at 01:30 PM |
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cheers for that, ill mention that to my Dad.
"steve parker" landrovers is only up the road from us....ill see what he says.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 6/10/07 at 03:19 PM |
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The plastic inlet manifold on some K series is known to leak coolant from the rubber gasket betwwen the manifold and the head. Sometimes the leak is
internal and difficult to see , may have a misfire when starting and excessive water vapour from the exhaust .
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britishtrident
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| posted on 6/10/07 at 04:28 PM |
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Don't bother spending money on the oil rail -- Ford adopted it in panic it was a Rover part intended for a highly boosted 1.8 Turbo.
The Ford spec Landrover gasket demands extra care in fitting --- every surface must be cleaned to a much greater extent than the Rover gasket.
The Ford gasket is also less forgiving of sunken liners than the rover part.
Head gaskets on Freelanders are caused by two types of problems.
(1) Minor external water leaks -- inlet manifold radiator, hose clips, pipe work, water pump, original thermostat housing.
(2) Head shuffle caused by local over heating during initial warm up from a cold start..
Head shuffle only became apparent after the MGF/TF and Freelander were indroduced mainly because these vehicle tend to be driven by younger drivers
than the traditional rover driver.
Head shuffle is caused by the block over heating before the head warms up and thermostat opens. This is caused by a combination of Rovers unusual
positioning the original thermostat and over eager drivers over load/over revving the engine from a stone cold start.
To prevent head shuffle Rover introduced two mods firstly they introduced stainless steel dowels to locate the head (comes as part of the gasket set)
a completely revised thermostat the "PRT Thermostat" which is fitted externally.
I strongly advise fitting a PRT..
When doing the head job the manifolds are best best unbolted from the head and left in situ on the car.
Have a few spare nuts handy when replacing the inlet manifold and take extra care to do the inlet nuts up evenly.
Don't oil the head bolts just clean threads with kerosene or WD40
The head bolts should also be checked for fitted length before the head is put back on --instructions in Haynes manual for the 214.
Also personally I always run hex (ie non split) die nut down the head bolt threads.
If head bolts pass test then they can (should) be reused.
First stage of torquing is critical ---essential use a decent low range torque wrench.
Then refill with correct coolant (if coolant is orange/pink use OAT antifreeze) and bleed the cooling system (bleed screw in hose at flywheel end of
engine).
Then Pressure test when cold and look for leaks.
Personally I recommend ad 1/3 of container of K-Seal to all Rover cooling systems to prevent minor external leaks.
[Edited on 6/10/07 by britishtrident]
[Edited on 6/10/07 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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meany
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| posted on 6/10/07 at 08:00 PM |
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cheers for all that...ill print it off so my dad can read it.
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