steve m
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| posted on 23/12/07 at 04:00 PM |
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Non working rear wheel drive mazda
Hi All
I have bought a car that's been standing for a while and has some damage to the nearside front wheel and track control arm. After replacing both
of these i hoped to start and move the car..here is the problem..
The starter which is pre engaged spins and on the odd turn engages and the engine starts, but it is possible to put the car in any gear while the
engine is running without pushing the clutch pedal down, in fact it doesn't matter what you do with the clutch pedal the car has no drive..I
have checked the clutch workings and everything seems to be operating. The clutch is not making any nasty noise nor is the gearbox, in fact everything
sounds as it should, with the exception of the starter when it spins!
Anyone come across this before??
thanks
steve
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bonzoronnie
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| posted on 23/12/07 at 05:04 PM |
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Siezed clutch
If the car Has been standing it is possible that the clutch release bearing has siezed onto its shaft 
The starter is also sticking. The shaft of the starter has probably rusted a little during standing.
If the starter continues to stick, it'll have to come out for a bit of a clean up. 
Although unusual it is possible for the clutch jam whilst dissengaged. 
If your Mazda has a hydraulic clutch. Check the slave cylinder first.
My Mazda 6, slave cylinder jammed shortly after being laid up for 2 years.
(This gave me no drive )
I removed the slave, pulled it apart, gave the cylinde a light hone. Been OK ever since.
I hope this helps.
Ronnie 
[Edited on 23/12/07 by bonzoronnie]
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Peteff
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| posted on 23/12/07 at 05:06 PM |
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Has it got a propshaft on it?  When clutches stick it's usually permanent drive not none.
[Edited on 23/12/07 by Peteff]
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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irvined
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| posted on 23/12/07 at 05:21 PM |
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First of all put it in gear, and watch if the prop shaft is spinning, most likely it wont be in which case possibly the release bearing or slave
cyl.
If its an MX5 - the gearbox can be removed fairly easily with the engine in - but the bolts are a *barsteward* to remove as you need about 4ujs and
2meters of extensions which of course wind up for 4 turns before slipping in order to remove the maximum amount of skin from your knuckles.
Most likely is the clutch slave or release bearings, both parts are pretty cheap, and are probably salvagable.
http://irvined.blogspot.com
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Danozeman
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| posted on 24/12/07 at 07:22 AM |
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quote:
Has it got a propshaft on it? When clutches stick it's usually permanent drive not none.
True unless the slave or release brg jammed when the clutch was pressed but thats not common.
Id go for the centre broken out of the clutch or the clutch is completely shot.
Does the clutch pedal feel ok?? Hybolick or cable operated?
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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steve m
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| posted on 24/12/07 at 08:04 AM |
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Thanks for the replies
The clutch is hydrolic. and appears to be working in the proper way, as the arm on the gearbox is moving a corresponding way in relation to the peddal
how common is ?
"Id go for the centre broken out of the clutch "
as we have never driven the car , due to the suspension damage, the clutch could be shot anyway
regards
steve
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steve m
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| posted on 24/12/07 at 08:04 AM |
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Thanks for the replies
The clutch is hydrolic. and appears to be working in the proper way, as the arm on the gearbox is moving a corresponding way in relation to the peddal
how common is ?
"Id go for the centre broken out of the clutch "
as we have never driven the car , due to the suspension damage, the clutch could be shot anyway
regards
steve
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bonzoronnie
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| posted on 24/12/07 at 09:33 AM |
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Cluch
The clutch slave cylinder may appear to be working OK.
It is still worth removing to see if it lets any pressure off of the cluch.
It may be that it is sticking a tiny bit and not allowing the clutch to re-engage. ( it only needs to stick a tiny amount )
Ronnie
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 24/12/07 at 01:14 PM |
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I agree with Dan, first thing to do would be to check the slave hasn't siezed or the flexi hose U/S, try undoing the bleed nipple to relieve
pressure . If you find the gears then grate the hose is the likely suspect. If there is no difference disconnect the slave from the bell housing and
try again, if still the same try turning the prop by hand which should move the vehicle. If all else fails remove the box and inspect the clutch.
Centres ripping out of the clutch plate is not uncommon. Test the box by replacing the gear lever and turning the first motion shaft( the one the
clutch plate sits on) in each gear, if no drive at the third motion shaft the box is faulty. HTH
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NS Dev
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| posted on 24/12/07 at 01:32 PM |
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if the clutch mech is all working then the centre has ripped out if every thing else is working
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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