DarrenW
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 11:55 AM |
|
|
Pug 106 brake lines - check yours.
Bloody pugs brakes have failed on me (well actually on wife when she had the kids in the car ).
Ours is a 1996 1.1 model. Only 60K miles so an OK town car. Just passed MOT and the tester even reported how tidy it was underneath.
Brakes were starting to get spongy last week and fluid light came on the dash. In the end pedal just went down to the floor. Luckily there was enough
braking to stop the car at town speeds and handbrake is good.
I took a look yesterday while wife was pressing the pedal and underneath was all dry - no obvious signs of leaks. I tried to top up bottle and bleed
the back which is when fluid started to leak out properly. Basically all of the lines look in great shape but along nearside sill just before the back
wheel the pipes rise up to keep clear of the inline fuel filter. They seem to have perished up there (out of sight).
If you have similar car it could be worth taking a look and cleaning this area out - i bet muck and slt collects on top of the filter.
The repair should be easy as Renault already use connections under the floor so ill split these and put new section in (i love flaring pipes while
they are on the car - really looking forward to doing the back connection.
Biggest grief will be that one bleed nipple is very tight and rounded. I have an awful feeling ill need a new wheel cylinder and other pipes to be
replaced.
At least garage has a pit.
|
|
|
|
|
Mr Whippy
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 12:06 PM |
|
|
Poor show by the tester, it was his job to spot this.
Doesn't surprise me though as my Volvo just past its MOT with a huge rip in the rear seatbelt where one of the dogs has eaten it! I even left a
new real in the boot for the garage to fit when it failed. Bloody useless.
I even think he's missed a broken rear spring as it's going 'twang!' over bumps
[Edited on 17/3/08 by Mr Whippy]
|
|
|
COREdevelopments
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 12:08 PM |
|
|
i am an mot tester and always try my best to look out for corroded pipes as they are deadly if they go wrong. where i used to work we had failed
plenty of cars for brake pipe corrosion, we have even had a few burst on the mot ramp!!! half the time you just cant see them and really your not
allowed to pull anything off the car during an mot!! which is stupid i think. your lucky it happened at low speed.
and yes you probably will have to replace the pipes going into the wheel cylinder as they usually twist coming off.
good luck.
rob
|
|
|
muzchap
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 01:11 PM |
|
|
Same on my 1999 BMW last year - thrashed home from Nottingham, pulled up outside mates house - had a cuppa, reversed out of parking space, applied
brakes - pedal went to floor - the pipes had totally corroded...
As Core said - the problem with MOT's is you're only allowed to tap things gently and not allowed to remove parts from the car. I'm
sure the MOT tester did the best job he could in the circumstances.
Cheers,
M
------------------------------------
If you believe you're not crazy, whilst everybody is telling you, you are - then they are definitely wrong!
------------------------------------
|
|
|
Mr Whippy
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 01:22 PM |
|
|
about time they banned the use of steel for brake pipes, unless its stainless.
|
|
|
Howlor
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 03:12 PM |
|
|
I've sometimes been able to shift rounded bleeding nipples by drilling a hole in a piece of flat bar that sits over the rounded flats on the
nipple. Few weld tacks and it is often enough to get it moving, the heat and good grip does the job. Bit of a faff but can save buying a caliper or
cylinder.
Steve
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 03:17 PM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by Mr Whippy
about time they banned the use of steel for brake pipes, unless its stainless.
there was a programme on telly about risk/litgation/insurance vs costs etc and big companies do a lot of research and analysis into this.
reason why steel brake pipes are still with us is the cost saving including a few insurance payouts for death/injury caused still outweigh the cost of
using stainless. Generally it doesn't bother us unless it is someone we know who is injured or killed.
anyway DW - good job it happened and low speed.
|
|
|
Howlor
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 03:36 PM |
|
|
Just out of interest has anyone used stainless lines on their kit? Would they be more liable to cracking over the copper alternative?
|
|
|
iank
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 03:47 PM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by Howlor
Just out of interest has anyone used stainless lines on their kit? Would they be more liable to cracking over the copper alternative?
Don't know about that, but they'd be a nightmare to flare.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
|
|
|
DarrenW
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 03:56 PM |
|
|
i dont blame the tester at all. Where they have failed is totally out of sight - hence the post to highlight this location to others. The rest of the
pipes look great as well so you wouldnt suspect them at all fom a quickish inspection.
Plan is to get into the pit tonight - free off what i can and apply WD40 where they are a bit sticky. Im going to try and replace the full rear
sections. If i get the pipe connection off the cylinder with siexed bleed nipple i will probs just bleed the pipe. My mate has the pro flaring tool
and various ends so ill take the bits to his to make some new pipes.
I was going to try and just replace the bust section but not sure that ill be able to flare the ends left on the car.
Im so pleased its happened during light nights when its lovely and warm!
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 04:03 PM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by Howlor
Just out of interest has anyone used stainless lines on their kit? Would they be more liable to cracking over the copper alternative?
Razman has used stainless braided lines on his.
About copper cracking - anyone have this happen or know someone who has?
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 04:28 PM |
|
|
Anyone who has worked with copper pipe either industrially, on ships or on vintage cars will tell you it cracks as soon as you disturb it. Absolsute
pain in the as-- .
In contrast Kunifer is dammed near perfect as a brake pipe material
One of the first things BMW did when they took over Rover was down spec the brake pipes from plastic coated steel to normal bundy --- a lot of 75
are starting to fail MOT with corroded brake pipes.
If you own a 75 or ZT get out the Waxoyl and slap it on.
[Edited on 17/3/08 by britishtrident]
|
|
|
DarrenW
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 04:31 PM |
|
|
Ive always used Kunifer when replacing brake lines. IIRC its a marine grade alloy and good at resisting corrosion.
|
|
|
froggy
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 07:55 PM |
|
|
im getting a few 75,s with the front to rear pipes rotting where they sit in the clips, fiat pipes can swell up behind the paint that covers the pipes
and ive had a few arguements with people for failing them on punto,s and brava,s as the paint is covering the pipes and they look ok
|
|
|
rusty nuts
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 08:13 PM |
|
|
I've had a couple of Clios where the front to rear pipes run through some trunking under the floor which have burst when brakes are applied
hard. I always stand on the pedal as hard as I can when testing them now. Impossible to see without taking off the trunking.
|
|
|
COREdevelopments
|
| posted on 18/3/08 at 08:45 AM |
|
|
same with the toyota carina e's and early corollas, it even happening with the avensis' now, as mentioned earlier the tend to go where
they sit in the plastic clips, if its an old car which looks like it has rusty pipes i will make sure i take the trunking off to check, better safe
than sorry as they say! if mr vosa saw me do this he would throw a fit!! but at the end of the day its on my conscious not his.
but dont tell him that!!
Rob
|
|
|