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Author: Subject: Low flying mudguards
brynhamlet

posted on 28/7/08 at 01:24 PM Reply With Quote
Low flying mudguards

As a follow on to a previous post, I had a not dissimilar episode on Saturday, tooling along minding my own business when the offside front mudguard went whistling over my head. Front stay had broken were the flat bar is welding to the vertical tube, result bolts holding the mudguard dug into tyre, rotated mudguard and rear stay round tyre until the bolt ripped out of the mudguard and whoosh away it went. Fortunately the mudguard survived with minor injuries, but stay is totally f**cked.
Ain't got the equipment or time to make my own stays so that’s £40 for new ones.
Worse of it was I was going to spend the day in it on Sunday

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nib1980

posted on 28/7/08 at 01:29 PM Reply With Quote
sounds similar to my incident, several months ago, and prior to my upgraded mounts.



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contaminated

posted on 28/7/08 at 01:35 PM Reply With Quote
I've had it happen several times now, and I've welded them up each time. Time for some new ones now though I think. Where's the best place to get stays for Cortina uprights, and am I looking at paying £40 each or for a pair.

ta

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PAULD

posted on 28/7/08 at 02:15 PM Reply With Quote
stays

Mine did the same after a couple of months. I welded them back together then welded a 6mm rod the full length of both sides of each bracket and its been alright since (six years since) Touch wood!
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James

posted on 28/7/08 at 06:17 PM Reply With Quote
I've been reading about this problem happening to people since getting into this hobby! Usually on the nearside too.

Happened to me a couple of months after SVA.

Always happens with this type of welded bracket- hardly suprising as it flexes with every bump exactly at the point where the weld has heat-treated the metal.

I was really impressed with Ned's uprights which were from MNR. It uses bent (19mm?) tubes instead of welded flat 3mm strip. Also, the tubes are much further forward around the wheel.... meaning a twisting force is applied to the tube rather than a straight flex at the weld point.
That make sense?

It'll be a design I'll try to 'replicate' when mine brakes again!

Cheers,
James





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