tegwin
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posted on 24/10/08 at 05:15 PM |
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Still overheating... I despare!
I am starting to run out of ideas...
Engine comes up to temperature as you would expect at a fast idle....
When you pull away and load up the engine the temperature wonders up to about 95 degrees...
If you stop and let the engine idle the temperature drops down to around 86 degrees...
I have an ali Clio radiator...the biggest I could fit in the chassis... the pipes have no tight bends on them, and the radiator gets hot as
expected...
The engine is set to (I think 7.5 degrees)....The vacum and centrifugal advances work as expected...
I cant advance the timing any more...if I do, the engine pinks like mad...
The engine has only done about 50 miles since it was rebuilt, so its pretty much a new engine
The waterpump (new) pumps the water pretty well through the thermostat bypass back into the header...so Im sure the pump is good...
Anyone have any cunning ideas?...This is starting to drive me nuts!
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Howlor
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posted on 24/10/08 at 05:18 PM |
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Is it actually overheating as 96 degrees doesn't sound too bad. Obviously with been underpressure the boil point is above 100 anyway.
Just my ten penneth worth!
Steve
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stevec
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posted on 24/10/08 at 05:19 PM |
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95deg. is not hot.
Steve.
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Howlor
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posted on 24/10/08 at 05:21 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by stevec
95deg. is not hot.
Steve.
It is if you splash your bits!
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stevec
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posted on 24/10/08 at 05:27 PM |
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Dusty
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posted on 24/10/08 at 05:28 PM |
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How are you measuring the temperature? Does it boil over and spray water out the rad cap so you need to top up all the time?
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SeaBass
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posted on 24/10/08 at 05:28 PM |
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How are you taking those readings? (TOO SLOW!)
Are you sure the gauge is correct and V reg is working?
JC
[Edited on 24/10/08 by SeaBass]
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Andy W
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posted on 24/10/08 at 05:32 PM |
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had a similar problem, car started over heating, did all the usuall flushed system, removed pipes rad etc, checked stat. Turned out to be a blockage
in the radiator (which was only a couple of years old)
Andy
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maartenromijn
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posted on 24/10/08 at 05:40 PM |
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I think the temperatures are normal. What happens with the temp if you put the pedal to the metal? Say, on a nice country road?
BLOG: http://thunderroad-super7.blogspot.com/
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tegwin
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posted on 24/10/08 at 05:41 PM |
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I am using a digital multimeter with temperature probe screwed into the engine block....(accurate to within .2 of a degree!)
I am using a header tank system so there is no rad cap to blow...but it doesnt seem to ever be under too much pressure....deffinately not loosing any
water anywhere...
Its just a bit concerning to see the engine temp guage almost in the red...or wondering into the red on occasions...
The radiator was second hand...but I gave it a really good flush and it seems to flow liquid without any issues atall...
Is it possible that I need to advance the ignition timing a bit to help things run cooler?.... If I had the cambelt out of true by 1 tooth...that
would prevent me getting the ignition timing further advanced wouldnt it?...
What is considered too hot for a pinto?...
its only a 1.6FFS lol
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russbost
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posted on 24/10/08 at 05:45 PM |
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I would say that 95 deg shouldn't be showing as nearly in the red on the guage, I'd expect it to be a little over normal, have you got the
wrong sender for the guage?
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philw
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posted on 24/10/08 at 05:49 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Howlor
It is if you splash your bits!
Whimp
Must try harder
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tegwin
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posted on 24/10/08 at 05:52 PM |
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Im asuming the sender and guage came from the same car....but I might be mistaken....standard sierra sender...standard sierra clocks...
What temperature would be considered "hot"...
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TOO BADD
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posted on 24/10/08 at 05:54 PM |
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If you are not loosing water likely to be a partially stuck thermostat or a partially blocked rad. Have you firstly tried running without a stat.
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Andy W
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posted on 24/10/08 at 05:56 PM |
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I gave the rad a good flush out and it seemed ok. Took it to a rad specialist who gave it a very scientific test. Filled it with water and covered
the bottom outlet, he placed the rad against the wall and removed the plug, there was a mark on the floor the water should reach, mine was well
short.
Andy
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TOO BADD
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posted on 24/10/08 at 06:00 PM |
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If either are restricting the flow the engine WILL be hotter under acceleration rather than fast tickover as the flow will not be there to cool.
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Paul TigerB6
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posted on 24/10/08 at 06:11 PM |
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As per many other posts, 95deg isnt too hot at all. Dont forget your new engine needs to bed in properly yet and is probably a little tight still
anyway.
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jambojeef
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posted on 24/10/08 at 06:17 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by tegwin
I am using a digital multimeter with temperature probe screwed into the engine block....
Is that the problem maybe? Could you be measuring block temperature rather than actual coolant temperature?
Geoff
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maartenromijn
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posted on 24/10/08 at 06:25 PM |
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In the cars I have had the red zone starts at 120 degrees water temperature.
WHAT IS THE OIL TEMPERATURE??
BLOG: http://thunderroad-super7.blogspot.com/
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AdrianH
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posted on 24/10/08 at 06:26 PM |
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If this is teaching you to suck eggs I am sorry, but I found a few days ago and kept a reference. Found it from the Westfield site
http://hometown.aol.com/sarandrews/wateroil.htm
Cheers
Adrian
Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
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repper
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posted on 24/10/08 at 06:32 PM |
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95 dose not sound hot to me either easpecially as you say
The engine has only done about 50 miles since it was rebuilt, so its pretty much a new engine it will run hot in the running in stage shoud carm down
with moor miles under its belt
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tegwin
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posted on 24/10/08 at 06:46 PM |
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Aye...that makes sence...just a little weird that there is such a huge difference between idle and driving speed.... the temp goes up if you drive at
30....
The temp probe is in the water gallery, exactly the same as the standard one fitted by ford!
I guess its possible that the radiator is just too small?
Just slightly smaller surface area than the polo one that everyone seems to use...
Am I right in thinking that...when using a pressurized header tank type system....when the stat is closed, some of the water will bypass the stat and
flow back into the top of the header tank?
[Edited on 24/10/08 by tegwin]
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britishtrident
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posted on 24/10/08 at 06:47 PM |
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95c is bang on normal, under pressure with a 1 bar presure cap water boils at 120c.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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segan2b
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posted on 24/10/08 at 07:02 PM |
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Once mine is fully up to temp and the stat has opened it runs at 87 Degrees. 95 is not a million miles away. I am a bit confused about the temp gong
up when driving slowly, is the fan blowing the correct way?
Also are you running lean? 7.5 degrees is not much advance for a Pinto you should be able to put much more than than on it without pinking being a
problem.
Good luck, Sean
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tegwin
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posted on 24/10/08 at 07:13 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by segan2b
Once mine is fully up to temp and the stat has opened it runs at 87 Degrees. 95 is not a million miles away. I am a bit confused about the temp gong
up when driving slowly, is the fan blowing the correct way?
Also are you running lean? 7.5 degrees is not much advance for a Pinto you should be able to put much more than than on it without pinking being a
problem.
Good luck, Sean
Taken the fan off for the moment to see if it was blocking the flow of air through the rad..
I cant go much more than 7.5 before it starts to pink...
Which was why I was wondering if the cam timing was out (By a tooth) ...if that was adjusted..could I then push for some more ignition advance perhaps
and then run cooler?
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