Little help needed with my Tintop.

It’s a range rover classic fitted with a rover EFI hotwire V8 it hasn’t got lambda sensors or catalyst converters fitted.
Its been off the road for 3 months and ive just got it back up running after reworking the chassis. The car drives fine but when I come to a junction the engine nearly stalls, the revs drop to about 200RPM and about 5 seconds later it corrects itself. I have taken out the idle solenoid (which is less than a year old) and cleaned it and the area it fits into but it hasn’t helped.

Any ideas?

Which areas should I tackle next? Spark plugs, dizzy cap, fueling?

Cheers

I assume it ws OK before taking off the road. Was fuel level low, i dont suppose the fuel would have gone 'off' after such a short time would it?

i think id be making sure everything is cleaned up and take it for a longer run to see if it sorts itself out. Could anyone have played with the tick over or is it Ok when idling? Air filter dry and clean? Fuel filter clear?

dunno but is sounds like the idel stepper motor/flap valve thingy that is always gettign bunged up on these.

You need to ask on a land rover forum as this problem comes up tiem and time againm hence I know the gist but not the detail.

A few further questions :-

Auto or manual gearbox ?
Air con fitted
Have you had the throttle pot off ?

I have got the hotwire test PDF somwhere can forward if required ( have you a decent multimeter ) what reg is the hotwire from ?

Regards

Agriv8

its done 50 miles now but is intermitent (90% fails).

Its manual, aircon 1991 model.

I will take the idle valve casting off too and see if thats gunked up.

Thanks for the PDF, i think i have that already on my laptop at home. I did have problems last year with it struggling to start, which turned out to be the airflow meter adjustable pot which had moved so the airflow meter and ecu thought it was not working and going into limp home mode (super rich).

Im sure its not this but will check again, the car starts fine.

RE the Manual Box.

There may be an earth with a 710ohm resistor (irc) tel the ECU that manual box fitted.

Re the Air con there is a 4 pin resistor pack ( look like a relay but isnt one - possibly Red ) I have one you can borrow if you want to rule that out.

There is also the road speed tranduser ( if fitted on yous ) that tells the Ecu if the RR is moving worth checking ?

regards

Agriv8

Hmmm BIT OF AN UPDATE.

When I got home last night I popped the bonnet and had a quick look about, I pulled off the vac advance pipe that goes to the dizzy and it made no difference. At tick over it also had no vacuum from the manifold from this pipe? I was told to see if the dizzy unit is working you suck on the pipe and place you tongue on it and it should stick but mine doesn’t, but there is resistance if I blow into it which is strange. If the diaphragm is split then it shouldn’t hold positive pressure?

This unit is also less than 1 year old. What would cause it to break (the pipe is ok; I removed it completely and blew and sucked it to check for leaks).

Tonight I am going to remove the inlet plenum and all the vac pipes and breather pipes to check them and clean them out of gunk (not been done since rebuild 5 years ago). I am then going to set the base idle, check the AFM and its base voltage for co2 setting so I know the fueling is right and check the dizzy unit is clean and free. I will also check the timing but I am unsure if I need the vac unit working to do this.

My car does have the speed transducer. I understand that this tells the ecu the car is moving or not and lets the ecu control the idle differently when moving or not. If I dip the clutch when moving the engine still tries to stall so I don’t think its that and more like a main setting or manifold leak fault.

So
1, can I set the timing when the vac unit is leaking?
2, should I be getting a vac from the inlet on that pipe on idle?
3, should I not bother and try and get my engine out of the indy while having a few beers?

Cheers.
Andy

andy cant really help on any of them I am afraid.

1, can I set the timing when the vac unit is leaking?

i would have thought yes but not sure

2, should I be getting a vac from the inlet on that pipe on idle?

yes but not enought to feel it the only real resistence is the air filter. I can montor my VAC on my v8 with aftermarket ECu and from memory its KPA is quite low at tickover

3, should I not bother and try and get my engine out of the indy while having a few beers?

engine out not sure - Beers definatly

My Dad had protracted problems with his RR stalling (although its a late flapper) which turned out to be a sticking dizzy.

Aside from that, the vac module should hold vac (i.e. your tongue). If you can blow at all, the vac unit is leaking. RV8's are very touchy about timing...

quote:

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Originally posted by Agriv8
1, can I set the timing when the vac unit is leaking?

Haynes manual would tell you but pretty sure you set timing at idle without the vacuum connected.

2, should I be getting a vac from the inlet on that pipe on idle?
Yep, bag loads of it. See gauge below and google. That is why you disconnect since it will advance the timing.

3, should I not bother and try and get my engine out of the indy while having a few beers?
You can buy the vacuum units separately, the one for P6, less common than range rover, cost me about £ 70. I tried to repair but failed. Google paddocks/craddocks - LR spares. There some on ebay for £ 50 ish. Note make sure you get the correct part - there are quite a few variants.

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